Capping glass bottles

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Mac343

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My bottle capper finally arrived ready for tomorrow. Anyway i test capped a couple of the bottles and i did get it to go on but the cap like kinda sticks out a bit but i cant twist the cap or pull it off will that be enough? I'm probably just comparing it to machine capped bottles which it obviously wont be as good as but aslong as its not gonna let anything escape or enter it.
 
Try again, put safety glasses/gloves on if that gives you the confidence to go for it. It took a lot more than I thought it would to cap a bottle first time!
 
Did it come with two crimping cups? One for 26mm caps and one for 29mm? If so are you sure you are using the right one, probably the 26mm one if you have regular bottles and caps.
 
What sort of neck do the bottles have, like the left or the right?
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Bottle on the left with shallow neck are hard to get a good seal with hand capper. Sometimes the cap sticks out and is not properly sealed. Bottle on the right is usually fine, the hand capper has further to pull the cap down over the lip.
 
I've found you have to use some real force to cap a bottle (if you have a handheld capper rather than a bench capper at least) But unless there are defects in the glass you shouldn't actually be able to apply enough force to break the bottle.

I put the cap on, apply pressure, make sure its secure, then turn the capper 90 degrees and apply pressure a second time, to make sure the cap is fully on. I've never had a problem doing it that way.
 
Bench capper and Wychwood and Magners bottles work for me. Magners for cider obviously.
I use cider bottles for beer. My thinking is cider is carbed higher than most beers. So the glass is probably slightly thicker. I've never bothered to check if it is or not.
 
My bottle capper finally arrived ready for tomorrow. Anyway i test capped a couple of the bottles and i did get it to go on but the cap like kinda sticks out a bit but i cant twist the cap or pull it off will that be enough? I'm probably just comparing it to machine capped bottles which it obviously wont be as good as but aslong as its not gonna let anything escape or enter it.
They will leak and I found that out using a twin lever capper so ended up buying a bench capper which sorted it. The cap should not be flared and does not fully seal and as I applied a bit more pressure to seal on old speckled hen bottles I broke the bottle neck three times so enough of that for me.
 
I just use them to identify what is in them. I only put cider in cider bottles. I find I am getting lazy in labelling, so am now labelling the crate or box with the whole brewing info rather than the individual bottles.
Wine still gets labels.
 
Thanks for the replies, I'll try again and if not it's all going in my PB. Can I bottle from my PB in the future if I wanted a few bottles to take somewhere?
 
Okay sorted it, the capper is basically just **** i'll get one attached to my work bench as a few of you suggested. Got the capper to work but isn't great ill just have to maybe knock them on manually with the capper head if it keeps being this *****.
 
I was wondering if it was a **** capper. The one I've got is great, faster than bench capping and you can just cap as the next bottle fills of you've got a bottling wand on a piece of hose.
 
If it's like the Wilko one, slow and painful.

Most of my bottles are flip-tops or screw type so I haven't felt the need to upgrade.

When I do want to crown cap a few, I find the following works if slow.

I sit on a chair with the bottle in front of me on the floor. If a bottle is particularly difficult, I can carefully apply more pressure to one side than the other without allowing too much deviation. Alternate the pressure either side and it will go after a while.

Then, as others have said, rotate 90 degrees and finish off. It's obvious when it is completely finished.

I even managed hobgoblin bottles this way.

I wouldn't want to do a 40 bottle batch with it!
 
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