Carbonating / priming Ale in a corny keg for a Beer engine.

[peebee]

Is it this one?

Can you post a link to the connector needed to 3/8 pipe to the propane regulator. I spotted 2 very similar jg fittings one has a long thread and other has a shorter thread with a rubber seal on the shoulder.
I can’t get my Kegland 2 regulator 2 work. It’s reading the same as main reg on Co2 bottle when adjuster is screwed in.

Aye, a couple of them should do. With a reducing bush so one can be fitted in the 3/8" BSP port. E.g. :

Brass Male 3/8 x 1/4 BSP - Male x Female Reducing Bush Adapter Thread Reducer : Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Your Kegland regulators are showing the pressure in the keg, not the "set" pressure. No regulator would show set pressure although some "relieving" regulators (Kegland regulators are not "relieving" types) might show something closer after they've vented any what it sees as excess pressure. [EDIT2: Here's someone having the same issue with Kegland regulators: Kegland in line regulators Help needed].


@ceborame : It's a risk you are happy to take. It's not a risk I'd be happy to recommend to others. The extra kit* amounts to less than £20, a spoiled brew amounts to ... . And 30g of priming sugar per Corny is a hell of a lot! No wonder you get away with no extra CO2 gear. And no demand valve? I'm surprised you (usually) get away with that given the stupendous pressure the beer is under (from 30g of priming sugar).

[EDIT * Extra to the usual CO2 gear that is.]

 

[Jimbo77]

I got my Angram up and running about 4 month's ago, I prime a corny with around 30g of table sugar. I don't do the fancy low pressure co2 idea, and I find I get 2 weekends drinking out of a corny keg, in fact I have yet to encounter deterioration from oxygen as yet. I vent the built up co2 through the PRV and pour away, this gets closed after ever session (usually the following morning). I bought the one way demand valve and had nowt but trouble with it, I took it off, and I've only encountered dripping once so I took the quick release off the corny. My beer of choice is best bitter, I've yet to try a highly hopped beer and that might get oxidation issues.

I would try the easy method first before buying any more kit

I’ve got demand valve and engine working well, just need to crack the Co2
to keep a blanket of Co2 on the beer, ideally I’d like at least a month from the keg. I think £20 quid is a small price to pay for cask style ale at home.

Here is a pic of my beer engine setup a bit crude but it’ll do for now.
60cm Underbench fridge to the left with room for 2 cornys.
Got a Wherry in the fermenter and Cwtch in the 10L corny conditioning.

Aye, a couple of them should do. With a reducing bush so one can be fitted in the 3/8" BSP port. E.g. :

Brass Male 3/8 x 1/4 BSP - Male x Female Reducing Bush Adapter Thread Reducer : Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Your Kegland regulators are showing the pressure in the keg, not the "set" pressure. No regulator would show set pressure although some "relieving" regulators (Kegland regulators are not "relieving" types) might show something closer after they've vented any what it sees as excess pressure. [EDIT2: Here's someone having the same issue with Kegland regulators: Kegland in line regulators Help needed].


@ceborame : It's a risk you are happy to take. It's not a risk I'd be happy to recommend to others. The extra kit* amounts to less than £20, a spoiled brew amounts to ... . And 30g of priming sugar per Corny is a hell of a lot! No wonder you get away with no extra CO2 gear. And no demand valve? I'm surprised you (usually) get away with that given the stupendous pressure the beer is under (from 30g of priming sugar).

[EDIT * Extra to the usual CO2 gear that is.]

Thanks for the advice.
I‘ve ordered the 50-150Mbar Reg looking forward to replacing the Kegland with something more suitable.
Will this Connector work without needing the brass reducer you suggested on the previous connector I posted.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/John-Gue...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[Jimbo77]

Yes just spotted this Kegland in line regulators Help needed at least I’m not the only one that’s had a right faff on. They don’t seem fit for purpose, when I bought I mentioned to seller I was after a Reg that I could set to 2-5 psi. I feel as tho I’ve been mis-sold.

 

[peebee]

,,, Will this Connector work without needing the brass reducer you suggested on the previous connector I posted. ...

No. The regulators have an input port which has a 1/4" BSP thread and an output port which has a 3/8" thread. I'm sure they had a reason to do it this way? The reducing bush just turns the 3/8" BSP port into a 1/4" port so the same choice of JG fitting can be used for both sides.

The input is coming from your main cylinder regulator, the output goes to your keg.

Seems inconvenient, but it's a whole lot better than the majority of these LPG regulators that are often encumbered with "POL" adapters - you don't want one of them!

I've picked out a brass reducing bush because it was the first I found. Many folk don't like brass and would find stainless steel ones, but as they are used dry there isn't a problem with brass. If you insist on stainless steel just lookup "stainless steel 1/4 3/8 bsp reducing bush". I prefer to use only parallel (cylindrical) threads, but you often find the male threads are tapered (BSPT) - no worries. You will probably need some PTFE tape to ensure the threads are well sealed (usually 7 turns on the male threads). Parallel threads may have a sealing O-ring and wont need PTFE tape.


I do not use JG fittings 'cos I don't like them! But they are very popular amongst folk on this site so I was suggesting them. If I start rabbiting on about metal fittings and 6mm polyurethane gas pipes I'd scare you off (along with anyone else reading this).

 

[peebee]

I forgot! I do so much mucking about with this stuff, accumulating all sorts of bits and bobs, I can easily do the pictures:

The two adapters in the foreground show the difference between tapered BSP and parallel BSP (which has a black sealing O-ring). The parallel kind are my favourite, but in this case you can't screw the parallel adapter in far enough for the O-ring to seal. So you may be better off with the "tapered" type with a few wraps of PTFE tape for good measure (you should be able to rely on the taper to do the sealing, but I'd rather tighten lightly with tape as those plastic fittings break very easily).

Want to know what I'd actually use:

Very pretty! But takes a bit of explaining.

 

[Jimbo77]

I forgot! I do so much mucking about with this stuff, accumulating all sorts of bits and bobs, I can easily do the pictures:

View attachment 58854

The two adapters in the foreground show the difference between tapered BSP and parallel BSP (which has a black sealing O-ring). The parallel kind are my favourite, but in this case you can't screw the parallel adapter in far enough for the O-ring to seal. So you may be better off with the "tapered" type with a few wraps of PTFE tape for good measure (you should be able to rely on the taper to do the sealing, but I'd rather tighten lightly with tape as those plastic fittings break very easily).

Want to know what I'd actually use:

View attachment 58857

Very pretty! But takes a bit of explaining.

Thanks for taking the time to explain that so concisely. I’ve ordered a few of Jg fittings from BKT
and reducers from the Bay. If my beer engine setup is as successful as i hope,
i might invest in another as I've space for another keg in the fridge.
Currently cold crashing my wherry, It’ll be a bit of a rush and probably not at its best,
but i’m trying to have it on Tap by Xmas.