Controlling Induction Hobs.

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aamcle

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How are members controlling induction hobs?

Are there any that can be controlled by a PID/SSR combination?

Thanks All.
 
I turn the nob.

However I only use it for the boil, I mash in a Grainfather so electric with temperature control already. I don't see a problem with using a temperature controller like an Inkbird coupled with a probe in a thermowell to maintain a steady mash temperature, although I would have thought that you'd want to experiment with the nob setting to get the right power level so that it doesn't fluctuate too much when it kicks in, especially as you wouldn't (I assume) have a cooling element.

This is on the assumption that you're talking about a portable one with a socket, if you're on a wired-in kitchen hob then ignore me.
 
I use my ink bird 308. But ensure it is only to 2200 watts. To date my Buffalo CE208 seems to cope with on off switching. However, I was going to get this part http://www.cateringzone.co.uk/buffa...mfQKYGqElszIOLpV8dfaZo8HsU4WkUoxoCiGMQAvD_BwE
and see if I could use a PID/SSR when my warranty expires.
It won't work the way you want it to. That photo shows they're using a manual pot most likely to produce a sense voltage at an IC that translates that into your desired power level. It would be a relatively easy project for someone with an Arduino or Pi to either hack up a digipot replacement or even just drive the reference input directly from a DAC output if the levels are compatible.
 
I use my ink bird 308. But ensure it is only to 2200 watts. To date my Buffalo CE208 seems to cope with on off switching. However, I was going to get this part Search results for: 'buffalo-control-panel-4862'
and see if I could use a PID/SSR when my warranty expires.
Hi. Jumping in in this old thread, I'd like to do this as I struggle to manually maintain a stable mash temp on my BIAB setup using the same buffalo induction hob. I always overshoot the temp when adding short bursts of heat.

Do I just plug the induction hob into the heat side of my inkbird 308, set it to my strike water temp (eg 70°C) and then switch the hob on and set to 2200W?
And then lower the inkbird set temp to my desired mash temp (eg 67°C) when I want to start my mash?

What should I set the heating differential to?

No danger of damaging the Buffalo hob?

Thanks.
 
Aye, the main problem is the Inkbird can only cope with 2kw and the IH has a cooling fan that cools the unit down. I hot swap the plugs once I get to temp just to protect the IH. Been working like this for a few years. The other alternative is to wire a permanent cooling fan? athumb..
 
Aye, the main problem is the Inkbird can only cope with 2kw and the IH has a cooling fan that cools the unit down. I hot swap the plugs once I get to temp just to protect the IH. Been working like this for a few years. The other alternative is to wire a permanent cooling fan? athumb..
Hi. I'm not sure what you mean about the cooling fan and "hot swapping" the plugs. Can you explain a bit more why the fan is a problem and what you mean by got swapping the plugs?
I gave this a go the other day as I suggested with my hob set no higher than 2.2kW and it seemed to work alright. I hope I haven't damaged either the hob or the inkbird.
Thanks.
 
Hi @RichardMW If the IB switches off the IH has no power to energise the cooling fans. I was worried this may cause it to overheat. So once up to temp and beeping. I unplug from the IB and plug into the wall socket IH fans now operating and I can dial down the rolling boil. - The IB has however saved many boil overs with its warning beeps. athumb..
 
I used to mash with induction hobs. PID control is tricky.

Control hysteresis is a much simpler and just as good solution instead (on/off control. Many PID controller support this).

Many PID controllers also allow setting the cycle time. A high value will reduce the switching (but also responsiveness).

Electric elements are a bit easier to control.

I would always put a relay/contactor between the plate and my controller. Cheaper to replace.
 

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