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nige

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OK I didn't know what to call this but started as a euro larger pimped to 1060 og, this fermented down to 1010 and I decided to add 500g medium Dme and candi syrup that would take it to 10.5% if at 1000,repitched with belgian M41 yeast and hoped things would end around 1020 but it's still a bubble every few minute or so and back to 1010, not what I wanted as this will be too dry and thin, this is 4wks on, any help should I just leave it, add a load of maltodextrin or lactose later.
Thanks
 
Sounds like a bit of a shambles mate and a polished turd at best. Would be tempted to dump it IMO.

Lactose will primarily make it sweeter rather than give it a heavier mouthfeel anyway.
 
It tastes clean but going too dry and bitter, nothing wrong with it other than that, I don't want it thin and dry that's all,so a bit of lactose and maltodextrin may give me a thicker beer not too dry, my saaz hop tea didn't help things I don't think.
Can I cold crash it and rack it now adding some maltodextrin, prime and bottle. Or just wait.
 
Last edited:
@nige
I did suggest earlier to you that you added no more to your Euro lager brew when it looked to be going wrong, but you still chose to add more stuff (https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/coopers-european-lager-review.17845/page-14#post-857666)
As @Ghillie has said its a bit of a shambles.
The fermentation has obviously finished so I suggest that you invest no more time or money in it, just crash cool it, prime and bottle it and after a couple of weeks carbing, leave it for a few weeks somewhere cold and then sample to see how it has turned out. Time is a great healer and you might in the end find it drinkable.
 
It is drinkable now its just I like a bit more chew and less dry, it tastes clean but Mabe my saaz tea bitters more than I expected.
It's not getting chucked lol
 
Does airlock activity every few mins mean it's still active at 1010
 
It was perfectly good larger I decided to change abv and flavour, I did however think it would have stopped before 1010 given the added extras
 
I may chuck it in a pb just incase.
Thanks for your help.
 
I may chuck it in a pb just incase.
Thanks for your help.
Lower carb level beers like ales, stout and mild are fine for plastic PBs. However the carb levels that are required by lagers and wheat beers etc are more than that can be comfortably (and maybe safely) provided by PBs.
In short the max priming sugar load for about 23 litres is about 95g table sugar. However people do exceed that either knowingly or otherwise, but in any case sooner or later the PB relief valve will vent if >>95g is added , assuming it is working.
So I suggest you put your lager into bottles
More on priming and carbing levels here
https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
 
Thanks I will add maltodextrin also, don't think it's larger anymore though Terry.just hope bottles don't blow up with this.
I'll stick to kit more next one, it's takes too long otherwise. Ta
 
Just been range for some more bottles as I'm short, 5bottles with no tops on bsdtds asad., a few coke ltr bottles will do
 
If you are short on bottles any PET bottles will do that has held a fizzy drink. Cheapest 2 litre option is supermarket sparkling water at less than 20p a bottle, 1 litre is Tesco tonic at about £1.40 for a 4 pack. And you can keep re-using them until they get a bit tatty. I do. But store clear bottles out of the light. If you use larger bottle sizes use a serving jug. Wilko 1 litre glass jug about £1.75.
 
Yes so that will do for making up, I'm happy enough with this brew it's strong clean beer that's fine but not exactly what I'm looking for so I'll play with tweeks to see how I can get closer to what I want. I'm full aware AG is the answer however I'm not ready for the full jump although I'm aware that the reason I'm turning on this occasion too maltodextrin etc is my lack of unfermentables and boil times etc in my wort so I will look at mini grain aditions next and see how much closer I get. I'm willing to push outside the box with this kit if only to give me a bench mark to improve on with grain aditions next time. Ta
It will blow my head off either way so it's getting drunk.!!
 
I really appreciate any imput and help, Terry and anyone else so thank you.
 
Hi Nige I was worried about the jump to ag, I went biab route I bought a klarstein 30L kettle 129-00 quid a bag I had all the other stuff so not much outlay, I brew outside but its a bit chilli at mo so doing a few kits the difference in the beer is amazing, hope your brew turns out good acheers.
 
Hi Nige , just keep it simple , what do you like in a pint ? Then see if there are any kits out there that are similar, you can then start looking at how these are built & start building your own version. The guys on this site are incredibly knowledgeable & will help immensely. I’ve only been brewing a couple of years & have learnt so much on here. Just get the basics right , understand the components fully & you can then look at recipe building etc.... there are so many sources for them , above all as long as you are having fun & enjoying yourself then that’s all that matters. Happy Christmas :beer1:
 
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