Corny Keg to Beer Engine (calling J_P)

[Wez]

I believe that Mr J_P connects his beer engines up to his Cornys - i'd like to be able to do this but can't recall how it gets connected up. Would J_P or anyone else who does this mind posting an explanation please?

Thanks :thumb:

 

[Aleman]

Wez The Cheap way

Just run some line between the two and open the PRV before attaching the disconnect . . . sorted . . . of course you do have to drink a whole corny in a couple of days . . . .

My Beer engine has a 3/8 stem on the inlet so its fairly easy for me to do that . . . . however in order to cope with my rate of drinking I use a cask aspirator on the gas side Set 20psi on the reg, gas goes from reg to aspirator to keg. . . . when there is a vacuum in the keg (caused by pulling the handle) the gas flows until the vacuum is released . . . so keeping a blanket of CO2 over the beer.

Beer to engine is a bit tricky. I've posted before about the poppet being a major restriction in flow and causing CO2 breakout in the beer line under vacuum (Using the handle). There are a couple of ways to overcome this . . . Use a Check Valve . . . This goes into the beer line and stops beer flowing to the engine . . . . so you can do away with the Cask Aspirator and put 12-15psi on the keg . . . they were intended for use with long beer lines where a flojet is used to supplement the pressure to push the beer to the engine. You can't use a higher CO2 pressure as that will oversaturate the beer . . . foam in the glass. The check valve opens when there is a vacuum on the engine side of the valve, beer flows until the vacuum is nil. . . .
Even using this method is not problem free some people report hammering in the beer line, caused by having too long a line between the check valve and engine (no more than 12") or oddly enough too much pressure in the keg. . . . the restriction of the poppet and disconnect is also an issue. One easy way around this is to remove the poppet from the post and just force some 1/2" braided PVC beer line over the post, and fix with a jubilee clip. Or you can remove the post completely, and the dip tube . . . (I Use the gas out post for this one, and invert the keg :idea: ) and force the PVC pipe over the threaded boss, securing with a jubilee clip. This gives zero restriction down the line. . . . of course you have to use the black disconnect to gas with but that's not an issue

 

[Wez]

Just run some line between the two and open the PRV before attaching the disconnect . . . sorted . . . of course you do have to drink a whole corny in a couple of days . . . .

That all sounded great until the drink the whole corny in a couple of days part :lol:

Would this work as I have a check valve in line...

Run line between the two and set reg at 2 or 3 psi

My thinking here is that the check valve would handle the 2 or 3 psi and only open when the beer engine handle is pulled then as you draw off the cylinder lets c02 in?

 

[Aleman]

Just run some line between the two and open the PRV before attaching the disconnect . . . sorted . . . of course you do have to drink a whole corny in a couple of days . . . .

That all sounded great until the drink the whole corny in a couple of days part :lol:

Would this work as I have a check valve in line...

You mean like

Use a Check Valve . . . This goes into the beer line and stops beer flowing to the engine

Run line between the two and set reg at 2 or 3 psi

My thinking here is that the check valve would handle the 2 or 3 psi and only open when the beer engine handle is pulled then as you draw off the cylinder lets c02 in?

You may find you need more than 2-3 psi behind the CV to avoid cavitation (Well its not strictly cavitation, it is CO break out in the beer line). I normally use 10 psi on the keg (at 10C) which means that I can pull a pint fairly quickly without getting foam in the lines . . . at lower pressures you have to be slower at pulling the pint . . . and I already exercise enough patience waiting for it to mature

 

[Wez]

Cheers - I missed that bit originally - going to give it a try tonight :thumb:

 

[Wez]

OK thats worked perfectly :thumb:

I'm currently supping a pint of 'Sunshine' from the Corny keg served by the Beer Engine

The set up is :

C02 cylinder connected to Corny, reg set to 5psi at the moment
John Guest (JG) fitting connected to black (out) disconnect
Beerline running from JG fitting on out disconnect to the JG fitting on the Check Valve (CV) inlet
3/8" (?) beerline running from CV outlet to beer engine in port

It's pouring a perfect pint at the moment :drink:

Thanks for your help Aleman :thumb:

 

[Vossy1]

I had a conversation with Steve at CFBS about the use of cask breathers/aspirators when I bought mine.
Basically, a cask apsirator only allows as much C02 into a keg as beer that has been drawn from it.
This alows the natural condition (ie, C02 level) to remain unaltered.
A cask check valve prevents return or forwarding of beer, to or from, the beer spout or keg.
Using a pressure setting on the regulator to maintain a certain 'psi' alters the natural condition of the beer.
Natural condition shouldn't cause cavitation in the lines or cylinder, but artificial pressure will.
It was my understanding that using a high pressure in the keg could cause break out of C02 in the cylinder,as the beer passes the seal, not just as it passes the poppet.

 

[highwayman]

Once again..This is all good stuff Guys..as I want to fit a Beer Engine to my Corny Keg soon

Some Pictures of your systems would be even better?

 

[Wez]

I've got mine set up using a check valve and used it last night :thumb: but what V1 is saying sounds interesting and I'll look into it.

I'll try to get some pic's of my set up later on :thumb:

 

[highwayman]

Thanks Wes..As they say..A picture paints a thousand words... :lol: