Cutting threaded stainless steel

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jayk34

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I have been trying to install a new ball valve tap into my burco boiler but ordered the wrong size of nipple to connect through the kettle as it's too long.

I have it so the most of the threaded ss is out the front of the urn to attach the ball valve but need to cut off a bit to reduce the length.

IMG_20210606_135425.jpg


IMG_20210606_135432.jpg

The simplest option might be to order a smaller one wondering if anyone has successfully cut this before without ruining the threads ?
 
I have been trying to install a new ball valve tap into my burco boiler but ordered the wrong size of nipple to connect through the kettle as it's too long.

I have it so the most of the threaded ss is out the front of the urn to attach the ball valve but need to cut off a bit to reduce the length.

View attachment 48594

View attachment 48595
The simplest option might be to order a smaller one wondering if anyone has successfully cut this before without ruining the threads ?
If you had another SS lock and washer you could simply run it up behind the tap to seal as that looks like a 100mm nipple though if you have a grinder with a thin cutting disc you could cut it down to size and use the nut to ensure the threads are clean after deburring the cut off.
 
No problem with a hacksaw - best to leave the nut on the bit you want to keep. run insulation tape around the bolt where you want to cut it - that will give you a square guide. After cutting run the nut over the cut, that will clean any edge burrs off. Should then be good to go
 
If you had another SS lock and washer you could simply run it up behind the tap to seal as that looks like a 100mm nipple though if you have a grinder with a thin cutting disc you could cut it down to size and use the nut to ensure the threads are clean after deburring the cut off.
i don't have another nut and washer but should have a metal cutting disc. What could go wrong 🤷‍♂️
 
No problem with a hacksaw - best to leave the nut on the bit you want to keep. run insulation tape around the bolt where you want to cut it - that will give you a square guide. After cutting run the nut over the cut, that will clean any edge burrs off. Should then be good to go
Wasn't sure a hacksaw would cut through stainless steel. Thanks.

I have a few options, now to choose the one that I have less chance of making a balls up.
 
He'll need another locknut and washer to seal the back o the tap....
Does it need a washer and nut to seal the back of tap ? I was going to just put PTFE tape on the threads of the entire nipple and have the back of the tap up against the locknut after reducing it in size. Do you think this would work ?
 
Does it need a washer and nut to seal the back of tap ? I was going to just put PTFE tape on the threads of the entire nipple and have the back of the tap up against the locknut after reducing it in size. Do you think this would work ?
i think it would work if you use PTFE tape, or possibly better, silicone sealant in the threads
 
You do need some way of stopping the liquid working it’s way though the thread though. It’ll be ok on the Burco side, because by the look of it you have a shoulder on that side with a silicone washer between that and the inside wall of the Burco.

Does the tap not have an internal shoulder on it, that you can put an O ring on so it seals against the outside end of the nipple? Can you show a piccy looking into the back of the tap?
 
Does it need a washer and nut to seal the back of tap ? I was going to just put PTFE tape on the threads of the entire nipple and have the back of the tap up against the locknut after reducing it in size. Do you think this would work ?
I put heated sealing compound which is good safe though plumbers gold is great and use a silicone washer on the front side as well to seal the tap against the boiler as this will prevent any leaks making sure you thread the nipple into the tap with PTFE tape,silicone washer then put through the hole using the sealant to fill and tighten with the lock nut if you have clearance then to put on the elbow and if not just do it in reverse starting with the elbow but making sure to mark the hilt where the tap ends so it can be snugged up.It sounds complicated but it's really not and I don't mean that badly.
 
A 24 TPI blade should do it ok - its new and not work hardened in anyway - just have to take your time and not let heat build up in the bolt.
 
I have more bits and pieces arriving this week and will see what I can bodge. I have a drawer of miscellaneous stainless steel fittings that's growing by the week !!
 
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