Daft question: difference between types of LME?

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muppix

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I picked up a large number of Mangrove Jack’s Liquid Malt Extract on my last internet order and only now do I realise that they’re all the ‘light’ variety, aimed at lagers, pilsners, light ales etc. Can I still use them on reds and dark ales, or am I mostly better of saving them for their intended use?

f34vjktirou_79dcda26-a12e-4791-af2d-6940ae83c242_1080x.jpg
 
I picked up a large number of Mangrove Jack’s Liquid Malt Extract on my last internet order and only now do I realise that they’re all the ‘light’ variety, aimed at lagers, pilsners, light ales etc. Can I still use them on reds and dark ales, or am I mostly better of saving them for their intended use?

f34vjktirou_79dcda26-a12e-4791-af2d-6940ae83c242_1080x.jpg
Use away as its malt extract and besides most recipe calculators will give you a near estimate of colour so only a matter of adjusting your other additions if either grain or liquid extract etc.
 
As I understand if you are brewing kits (extract) then the Light LME will be good for reds but not dark ales, they are excellent in IPA's and as you mentioned pils or lager recipes.
 
I picked up a large number of Mangrove Jack’s Liquid Malt Extract on my last internet order and only now do I realise that they’re all the ‘light’ variety, aimed at lagers, pilsners, light ales etc. Can I still use them on reds and dark ales, or am I mostly better of saving them for their intended use?

f34vjktirou_79dcda26-a12e-4791-af2d-6940ae83c242_1080x.jpg

I only ever use light or extra light for most applications then adjust for colour and taste with the specialty malts.
 
You can steep some dark grains in your brewing water to add color and flavor.

You can do a partial mash with some pale malt and some darker grains for color and flavor. This would be my choice.
 
Cheers guys - @Banbeer is right, I am indeed brewing kits. Still undecided about making the jump to AG mainly due to the availability (read: shipping costs) of ingredients to where I live, which is also the reason I buy my kits in bulk ... and have ended up with all that 'light' LME.

Will see how long I can keep them and use on lighter brews whenever possible, but if they're going to run out then I may well experiment with whatever kit I have on next.
 
If you are able to boil the LME (60mins)in a large pot with water and add some bittering hops at the beginning of the boil it will be just like doing an extract kit. You can also add hops at 10 minutes before the end for aroma and at turn off depending on what you want to make.
 
If you are able to boil the LME (60mins)in a large pot with water and add some bittering hops at the beginning of the boil it will be just like doing an extract kit. You can also add hops at 10 minutes before the end for aroma and at turn off depending on what you want to make.

I think this is where I see somebody nudging away a rock to give me a glimpse of the rabbit-hole underneath. Do I understand correctly that I can just use those 1.2 kg bags of LME (and some other bits, like water, yeast, and flavouring) to brew something, a bit like I do right now with kits? I wouldn't mind having a go at that since I love to experiment but am held back by a terminal lack of patience and understanding.;)

Step up the variety by steeping some grains be it Crystal (Light,medium or dark) Rye,Chocolate,Roasted as there is loads to choose from.

I'll definitely get around to that in time, but there's a problem: I'm based on the Isle of Man and we don't have a brew-shop, so I need to order everything in. And invariably get raped over postage because of said location. Or maybe I'm exaggerating, and just a total skinflint, either way I usually wait until I've got two or three hundred quid's worth stuff that I need from the same place before I cough up for postage. Which is a long way of saying that it may be a while before I get my hands on a variety of things with which to experiment.

Getting back to the steeping of grains, I take it that just means "soak them in hot water and then use that water" when I'm mixing up my LME, right?

Apologies as always for my lack of knowledge - all I can say is that if some of this sticks in my brain I'll pass it on to the next generation.
acheers.
 
I think this is where I see somebody nudging away a rock to give me a glimpse of the rabbit-hole underneath. Do I understand correctly that I can just use those 1.2 kg bags of LME (and some other bits, like water, yeast, and flavouring) to brew something, a bit like I do right now with kits? I wouldn't mind having a go at that since I love to experiment but am held back by a terminal lack of patience and understanding.;)



I'll definitely get around to that in time, but there's a problem: I'm based on the Isle of Man and we don't have a brew-shop, so I need to order everything in. And invariably get raped over postage because of said location. Or maybe I'm exaggerating, and just a total skinflint, either way I usually wait until I've got two or three hundred quid's worth stuff that I need from the same place before I cough up for postage. Which is a long way of saying that it may be a while before I get my hands on a variety of things with which to experiment.

Getting back to the steeping of grains, I take it that just means "soak them in hot water and then use that water" when I'm mixing up my LME, right?

Apologies as always for my lack of knowledge - all I can say is that if some of this sticks in my brain I'll pass it on to the next generation.
acheers.
Thats it in a nut shell basically but usually around 67 degrees for 30 to 60 mins or overnight steep depending on grain type,then add to your pot,boil,cool,ferment,drink.There is a how to section in the forum guide.
Regarding postage its no different to most of us as I live in NI and regularly get items posted across the water.
 
Can I just say, it wasn't long ago that I first came onto this forum and starting asking questions and gaining information to help me with my brewing.

To any new members/brewers, there is no such thing as a daft question!
 
Oops - forgot you're probably in the same boat Gerry, apologies.

Incidentally I had a fantastic time around the Wild Atlantic Way on my bike a couple of years back, never enjoyed myself so much despite being soaking wet for 4 days. Fantastic stuff. Bought my last car from Belfast too - any excuse to board a ferry in the right direction. 😁
 
I think this is where I see somebody nudging away a rock to give me a glimpse of the rabbit-hole underneath. Do I understand correctly that I can just use those 1.2 kg bags of LME (and some other bits, like water, yeast, and flavouring) to brew something, a bit like I do right now with kits? I wouldn't mind having a go at that since I love to experiment but am held back by a terminal lack of patience and understanding.;)
Yes you can use the LME (in different quantities to brew with) depends how much i.e. a 5L or 23L recipe. I can look for recipes if you want but obviously if you're doing a 23L brew you will need a 30+L pot to boil it in.
 
Yes you can use the LME (in different quantities to brew with) depends how much i.e. a 5L or 23L recipe.

Perfect! I tend to use 5 litre vessels (left-over Ashbeck bottles, if I'm honest) for experimentation. If you've got any recipes lying around I'd be most grateful, but don't go to any trouble on my account please!
 
FWIW, my understanding is that there is very little difference between light and dark, besides the obvious. I only ever use light and extra light. Sometimes, if caught short at my LHBS, I'll top up with medium DME. You don't have to use dark extract in a stout. In fact, Papazian's recipes tell you to use light in stouts.
 
There was a thread on this last May, you might want to read Here (link). There's a calculator for making your own recipes Here (link) for adding the correct IBU for the bitterness etc.

This is an easy recipe that will give a 4 - 5% ABV beer and make 5 Litres.


INGREDIENTS


  • 800 gm Dry Malt Extract (Barley DME) If you are using LME, liquid malt use 25% extra
  • 8 gm Dual purpose Hops eg US Cascade
  • 5-7 gm Beer Yeast
  • 6 Liters Water
INSTRUCTIONS


  • Warm the 6 litres water in boiling pot and add Dry Malt Extract and dissolve it. (Remember to switch off the heat when adding DME.
  • Bring the Wort to Boil. (This liquid after adding DME or after Sparging in case you are using grain is now called Wort)
  • Add half of the Hops (4gms) to the wort and boil for 20 mins
  • Add the remaining hops (4gms) to the wort and boil for 10 mins
  • Switch off the flame and cover the pot with a lid.
  • Cool down the wort and bring it to room temperature. Do not put anything in the wort from this point until cooled. (you can do Ice bath to cool it quickly or let it cool by itself)
  • Once cooled, transfer the wort to the fermenter and give it a good shake for 2 minutes to infuse oxygen.
  • Add the beer yeast to the fermenter and cover the lid and attach airlock.
  • Ferment for 10 days and then siphon the beer from top leaving the sediments in the fermenter to bottles
  • Condition the bottles for at least 5 days and enjoy your beer chilled.
 
That's ace, thanks @Banbeer! I'm tempted to give this a go ASAP but have a couple of questions:
  1. I don't have any beer yeast to hand right now, but there's some wine yeast left over from a cider experiment. Can I use that? Don't know any more about it I'm afraid - just "wine yeast". If not then I'll get some ordered - specific recommendations welcome!
  2. Do you strain the boiled hops out before transferring the wort to the FV?
  3. That recipe calls for 6 litres of water and by the time I add LME it'll probably be closer to 7 litres of liquid in total, but you say it makes 5 litres of beer. Do I really plan to lose so much liquid in the process, presumably through boiling and leaving behind the trub?
  4. Finally, can I do the boil in two batches and combine the wort in the FV before cooling? The reason I ask is that my biggest pot is 6 litres and my LME comes in bags of 1.2 kg, so I'm tempted to scale up accordingly and do two boils, each with around 3.5 litres of water, 3 + 3 grams of hops (assume pellets are OK) and 600 grams of LME. An alternative would be to boil, say, 4 litres in the pot, add 6 + 6 grams of hops, 1.2 kg of LME, then add in the remaining cold water when the wort is in the FV, just like I would with a kit. This Simple Guide to Extract Brewing by @terrym suggests not all of the water needs to be present at the boil stage (point #3) but that it's better for the hops.
Sorry for yet more questions ... can't wait to give this a go.
 
That's ace, thanks @Banbeer! I'm tempted to give this a go ASAP but have a couple of questions:
  1. I don't have any beer yeast to hand right now, but there's some wine yeast left over from a cider experiment. Can I use that? Don't know any more about it I'm afraid - just "wine yeast". If not then I'll get some ordered - specific recommendations welcome! Personally I would order beer yeast as I once did a brew without checking the yeast situation and ended up using a cider yeast.........TBH it tasted a little funky. Depends on the beer you prefer for what yeast to use, let me know your preference and I will advise.
  2. Do you strain the boiled hops out before transferring the wort to the FV? Yes (if leaf used)
  3. That recipe calls for 6 litres of water and by the time I add LME it'll probably be closer to 7 litres of liquid in total, but you say it makes 5 litres of beer. Do I really plan to lose so much liquid in the process, presumably through boiling and leaving behind the trub? The hops will absorb some water and also evaporation will play its part also you will have other losses as you say in the trub
  4. Finally, can I do the boil in two batches and combine the wort in the FV before cooling? The reason I ask is that my biggest pot is 6 litres and my LME comes in bags of 1.2 kg, so I'm tempted to scale up accordingly and do two boils, each with around 3.5 litres of water, 3 + 3 grams of hops (assume pellets are OK) and 600 grams of LME. An alternative would be to boil, say, 4 litres in the pot, add 6 + 6 grams of hops, 1.2 kg of LME, then add in the remaining cold water when the wort is in the FV, just like I would with a kit. This Simple Guide to Extract Brewing by terrym suggests not all of the water needs to be present at the boil stage (point #3) but that it's better for the hops. No problems doing it in two halves but I would run it through the calculator I linked to check the IBU's from the hops (so it's not too bitter). Hop pellets will be fine but you may want to use a muslin bag, they will drop into the trub whilst it's fermenting so no probs if you don't. Good luck and keep me posted athumb..
 

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