Fermentasaurus 35l snubby

[Bombers hoppy ending]

So I’m 4 kits in since mid February, currently been bottling and brewing on the same day to get some beer in the system.
Currently using a 30l bucket for primary in a fermentation fridge, then rack off and batch prime before bottling. Bottles then share the fermentation fridge for 14 days to carb and then cold storage in crates.
So I’m considering upgrading to a 35l snub nose with pressure set up.
Reasoning for the change.
1. Conical bottom to concentrate the trub.
2. Visually see what’s going on/ clarity.
3. Pressure transfer from surface of beer to improve clarity.
4. Possibly fill bottles with a bottling gun to reduce potential oxidation issues.
5. Ferment under pressure to reduce fermentation time. Currently I allow 21 days to fully clean up prior to bottling.
6. Dry hop without removing FV lid and being able to purge afterwards.

Does this make sense. Considering I brew kits, not grain, yet. .
Are there gains to be made with this approach. Currently not interested in kegs. I like the ease and tradition of bottled beer.
Look forward to your thoughts guys.

 

[chillipickle]

If you are brewing kits, I personally wouldn’t bother.To do a closed transfer you will need co2 and a pressure kit for your snubnose.
I very much doubt it will make your kit ferment quicker.

I use my 2 snubnoses just for closed transfers for my hoppy beers to kegs, mostly at 4 psi.

Unless you have kegs and co2 I wouldn’t waste your money imo.

 

[Bombers hoppy ending]

Thanks for the

If you are brewing kits, I personally wouldn’t bother.To do a closed transfer you will need co2 and a pressure kit for your snubnose.
I very much doubt it will make your kit ferment quicker.

I use my 2 snubnoses just for closed transfers for my hoppy beers to kegs, mostly at 4 psi.

Unless you have kegs and co2 I wouldn’t waste your money imo.

Thanks for the reply.
I was planning on going the sodastream cylinder route. Just to give enough co2 to cover purging and enough to pressure for transferring.

 

[foxy]

So I’m 4 kits in since mid February, currently been bottling and brewing on the same day to get some beer in the system.
Currently using a 30l bucket for primary in a fermentation fridge, then rack off and batch prime before bottling. Bottles then share the fermentation fridge for 14 days to carb and then cold storage in crates.
So I’m considering upgrading to a 35l snub nose with pressure set up.
Reasoning for the change.
1. Conical bottom to concentrate the trub.
2. Visually see what’s going on/ clarity.
3. Pressure transfer from surface of beer to improve clarity.
4. Possibly fill bottles with a bottling gun to reduce potential oxidation issues.
5. Ferment under pressure to reduce fermentation time. Currently I allow 21 days to fully clean up prior to bottling.
6. Dry hop without removing FV lid and being able to purge afterwards.

Does this make sense. Considering I brew kits, not grain, yet. .
Are there gains to be made with this approach. Currently not interested in kegs. I like the ease and tradition of bottled beer.
Look forward to your thoughts guys.

Full marks for 1. Still best to keep fermenting beer away from light, no real need to see whats going on. Whether you pressure transfer or siphon there will be no noticeable difference. Transfer to a bottling bucket and use a wand.
Cold crash will reduce oxygen, you will have nothing to worry about unless you store your beers for years instead of drinking it. Ferment under pressure to speed things up? Making beer isn't a race, the only reason that pressure fermenting is quicker is because the temperature is higher. Making beer is about making quality not turn around. Dry hop just before fermentation has finished, the co2 is not going to make a mass breakout just because you remove the lid.

 

[Graz]

Something else to be aware of with these fermenters if making kits, you can't make up the kit in the fermenter, it will melt.

As you have to add water fairly near to boiling temperature to dissolve the malt you'd still have to do this in your bucket, then add enough cold water (or all of it for the required volume) to get the temperature below the recommended range for the Fermentasuarus before transferring it all to that.

Dry hopping in these seems a bit of a faff as well, I've heard that some folk put the hops in a bag with a spoon or something magnetic and then stick this inside the top of the fermenter from the outside using a magnet. At dry hop time the magnet is removed allowing the hop bag to drop into the beer. Personally I just don't like the idea of my hop pellets being sat in a damp, warm atmosphere for anything up to 2 weeks before being dumped into the beer. The only other way I've seen dry hopping done without opening the lid / losing pressure is transferring to another fermenter with the hops in under pressure / CO2.

As a Corny keg user what I do like about them is that you can transfer straight from the fermenter into a keg without siphons or any real risk of introducing air to the finished brew but that currently isn't enough to make me want to buy one. If I brewed all-grain I might think differently though.

 

[Bombers hoppy ending]

Thanks guys for the replies.
Totally take on board the points. All very interesting.
Fermentation is always done in the fridge and I only open perhaps 3 times during the 2-3 weeks so light shouldn’t be an issue.
I read the threads regarding people melting them so mixing would definitely take place outside of one if that’s what I do.
Are there no positives to using one. I would have thought floating suction transfer would be a benefit as would co2 bottle purge whilst bottling. Rather than syphon into bucket and then using bottle wand. I would have thought these would reduce the risk of oxydation.
Certainly not looking at rushing my brewing, currently all get 3 weeks in the FV. Just thought these would have some benefits over a basic 30l bucket and bubbler.
Perhaps I’m over thinking it. Just looking to improve the finished product by reducing or limiting any negative issues. Mainly around oxidation and trub contamination/ transfer, during racking, priming and bottling.

 

[Braufather]

I just posted on another thread. I fully carbinated a kolsch by fermenting under presure and transferred to bottles with a beer gun. Went very smoothly. I only do all grain and mostly keg this worked out well.