- Jul 15, 2010
- Reaction score
OK, thanks, that's no good then. No worries, I have plenty of other options!
You don't need temperature control to make a lager - a cool spot, a crate of water, regularly change ice blocks and choose the right yeast.OK, thanks, that's no good then. No worries, I have plenty of other options!
Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Recipe: Phoney Peroni Batch Size (fermenter): 24.00 L Estimated OG: 1.047 SG Estimated Color: 6.1 EBC Estimated IBU: 29.6 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 75.6 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Finished water profile: Ca:28, Mg:3, Na:9, SO4:10, Cl:44 Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type %/IBU Volume 3.70 ml Lactic Acid (Mash) Water Agent 80% - 1.20 g Calcium Chloride (Mash) Water Agent - - 3.60 kg Weyermann Bohemian Pilsner (4.0 EBC) Grain 74.2 % 2.35 L 1.00 kg Crisp Flaked Torrefied Maize (1.3 EBC) Grain 20.6 % 0.65 L 0.25 kg Weyermann Wheat Malt (3.9 EBC) Grain 5.2 % 0.16 L 0.30 g Calcium Chloride (Sparge) Water Agent - - 0.20 ml Lactic Acid (Sparge) Water Agent 80% - 18.00 g Hallertau Magnum [10.70 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 21.5 IBUs - 10.00 g Saaz [4.70 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 2.6 IBUs - 15.00 g Saaz [4.70 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 2.9 IBUs - 1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 7.0 mins) Fining - - 25.00 g Saaz [4.70 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 2.6 IBUs - 1.0 pkg Munich Lager II (Wyeast Labs #2352-PC) Yeast - - Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 4.85 kg ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Mash In Add 24.55 L of water at 70.9 C 65.0 C 60 min Sparge: Dunk sparge with 5L of 75C water.
Yes here you go.
That's more or less a Helles with added corn. I bet it's very smooth and easy drinking. I've run out of flaked maize at the moment but I'll put something like this on the list to brew next time I'm ordering a batch of grains.Yes here you go.
German pilsner 80.3%
flaked maize 16.7%
acid malt 3%
mash ph 5.2
mash at 62c for 120 minutes
mashout at 75c for 10m
I like to use crisp german pilsner or bohemian and aim for around 14 IBU's with first wort hops. Saaz or magnum and another 4 IBU's at 15 minutes of mittlefruh.
Start the fermentation cold and let it chug along at 9c for about 8 to 10 days then i ramp it up 1 or 2c a day until i hit 18c. I leave it until day 21 then cold crash to zero for 1 week. Add isinglass halfway through the week, keg and force carb.
I use RO water with 3 grams of calcium chloride in the mash and I don't treat the sparge water.
For yeast i like wyeast 2278 czech pils, wyeast Mexican lager and i really like mangrove jacks bohemian as well.
Hey @foxbat - old post I know (a year and a day actually!) so maybe your closed transfer technique has evolved further since then.....I've made another improvement to my process in the name of further reducing post-fermentation oxygen exposure. I already transfer directly from the valve on my fermenter to a corny keg and then purge the head space with CO2 before leaving under pressure to carbonate.
Now I've decided to use the CO2 generated during fermentation to purge a corny keg so that I can transfer directly into a CO2-rich atmosphere before sealing up the keg. What made me decide that it was worth it was this post by HBT's resident mad scientist doug293cz. Here's what I did.
Previously I would use a blowoff tube inside the brew fridge. That is, a barb on the top of the fermenter has a short length of 3/8" beer line leading to a jam jar containing star-san to use as the bubbler air lock.
Now I'm running a longer length of 3/8" line from the fermenter barb, down through the fridge drain plug at the back and out to the gas-in line of a sanitised keg. The beer-out line now goes to the jam jar bubbler to complete the system.
In the above picture you can see the tube going down the drain plug. My fridge is a cheap Curry's brand undercounter model. The drain plug was lined with the tube that you can see on the left. To get it out I jammed a circular file into it which gripped it from within. It was easy then to yank upwards to remove it. Luckily the drain plug hole is exactly 3/8" diameter and the tube pushes firmly through.
This image shows the complete picture. You can see the 3/8" tube snaking out from the back of the fridge to the keg disconnect on the left and then the other keg disconnect is directed upwards into the sanitiser-filled jam jar that's been lashed into place with a few elastic bands that our litter-lout postman kindly drops all over the pavement on our street.
So that's it then, a simple process improvement using bits and pieces that I already had that hopefully will preserve those hop flavours a bit better.
I'm still doing it by purging the air rather than pushing out starsan. Doug on HBT worked out that would get you down to 5ppb O2 in the keg after a typical fermentation which was definitely low enough for me! The Starsan method would need pressure to displace it and when I contacted Brewbuilder about doing pressure fermentation in my FV the answer was an unequivocal "no". Then there's the issue of having another free vessel to collect the Starsan. Nah, too much effort. I'm all for removing steps from my procedure where I can rather than adding new ones.
No, I just loosen the tri-clamp fitting on the port fitted to the lid and air gets drawn in. This doesn't bother me, filling the keg takes only a few minutes and the beer near the surface of the FV will go into the left over bottles anyway.And when you transfer I get that you have a tap on your FVs - are you also supplying low pressure CO2 into the top of your FV (through the airlock hole?) to help push out the beer and take up the volume left as the beer leaves the FV?
Or are you simply allowing air to be pulled in through the lid? (Not strictly closed in that case I suppose)
I would imagine that a tap you can fix a hose to would be easier to handle than trying to keep a dip tube where it should be, rather than where it inevitably will want to be, while also bottling/kegging at the same time.No tap on my FVs so I would either have to add one, or make another hole in the lid to insert a dip tube while pumping gas in through the airlock hole.