From Flame out to FV

[Redwulf]

I've done 3-4 all grain brews so far and the journey from Hot side to cold side has seemed a bit manic and I think I'm missing a step. I'm still dialling in my equipment and getting to know my volumes and efficiency which seems to be in the 70's.

I use a diy coolbox mashtun and a 33 litre peco boiler and I've been using a hang on hop spider to limit hop matter in the kettle.

The process I'm interested in refining goes like this

1. At 15 mins from the end I add protofloc to the kettle.
2. At 10 mins the chiller goes in.
3. Any other adjuncts/late additions are added between 5 mins and 0 depending on requirements.
4. Flameout
5. Any 0 minute hops go in and if that has happened I let it stand until its dropped over 10-15 degrees
6. Start chilling - I usually agitate the wort around the chiller to speed the process
7. As soon as I am down to temp I decant to the FV
8. Pitch Yeast.

Should I leave it for 10-20 mins for the trub to settle in the kettle between cooling and decanting?

I should probably add that the **** in the bottlom of my FV in my all grain brews settles at 1"-1.5" thick about double what I see with kit brews.

 

[The Baron]

Your process seems pretty good to me and don't forget every body has a process that suits them so one size does not fit all. Regards the settling of the trub it's entirely your choice I personally would let it settle a little before transfer to minimise the trub transfer but do not forget to keep it cover so no airborne nasties can get in, in fact I would probably let it settle for half an hour to minimise trub as I prefer to not have it in the FV but some brewers just lob the lot in so no right and wrongs

 

[foxy]

I've done 3-4 all grain brews so far and the journey from Hot side to cold side has seemed a bit manic and I think I'm missing a step. I'm still dialling in my equipment and getting to know my volumes and efficiency which seems to be in the 70's.

I use a diy coolbox mashtun and a 33 litre peco boiler and I've been using a hang on hop spider to limit hop matter in the kettle.

The process I'm interested in refining goes like this

1. At 15 mins from the end I add protofloc to the kettle.
2. At 10 mins the chiller goes in.
3. Any other adjuncts/late additions are added between 5 mins and 0 depending on requirements.
4. Flameout
5. Any 0 minute hops go in and if that has happened I let it stand until its dropped over 10-15 degrees
6. Start chilling - I usually agitate the wort around the chiller to speed the process
7. As soon as I am down to temp I decant to the FV
8. Pitch Yeast.

Should I leave it for 10-20 mins for the trub to settle in the kettle between cooling and decanting?

I should probably add that the **** in the bottlom of my FV in my all grain brews settles at 1"-1.5" thick about double what I see with kit brews.

Clear wort into the fermenter = clear beer out.
Leave the debris from the boil and hops in the kettle. Dial in your losses to the kettle into your program.

 

[Redwulf]

Cheers.

I feel another day of experimentation coming up.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

In his how to brew, John Palmer says that cold break material only forms when the wort is rapidly cooled after the boil; so he suggests letting the wort settle after chilling before racking into the FV....

 

[Cheshire Cat]

I use a jug and pour the wort through this sieve. It aerates as well.

 

[Redwulf]

In his how to brew, John Palmer says that cold break material only forms when the wort is rapidly cooled after the boil; so he suggests letting the wort settle after chilling before racking into the FV....

Thats bit I wasn't doing, I will have a go on Friday.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Thats bit I wasn't doing, I will have a go on Friday.

Nor me! I only found out about it this week, and likewise I'm going to try it next brew (thurs or fri)