Galaxy SmASH help

[Hengoedbrewer]

Hi all

I'm considering a Galaxy SmASH BIAB for my next brew as I have never used the hop but know I like it after having it in some commercial brews. Therefore after some help. I've come up with the following malt bill and hop schedule for starters...


2.6 kg Crisp Malting - Extra Pale Maris Otter
225 g Holland & Barrett - Organic Flaked Barley
170 g Bairds - Maris Otter Pale Ale

10 g Magnum Pellet 15 Boil 30 min
15 g Galaxy Pellet 14.25 Boil 10 min
15 g Galaxy Pellet 14.25 Boil 5 min
30 g Galaxy Pellet 14.25 Aroma 0 min
40 g Galaxy Pellet 14.25 Dry Hop 5 days

Does this look okay? I have a little pale ale malt left over so thought it wouldn't do much harm to chuck it in.

Brewers Friend tells me I am looking at 5.5 ABV ish with 46 IBU's with this, both of which I am okay with.

I'm a new BIAB brewer (this will be attempt 4) and I am still struggling a bit with water volumes to use and accurate use of Brewers Friend. I'm aiming for about 12L in the FV; I have a 15L stockpot as my kettle. Last brew I was also aiming for 12L in the fermenter and only actually had 9 post boil, so topped up with bottled water to 11L. On bottling day I managed to actually package 17x500ml bottles; meaning 2.5L or so lost to hop trub. Would it therefore be okay to mash in say 9L and sparge with 6L; meaning I would have about 12L for the boil due to grain absorption losses, and I'm guessing about 10L post boil due to boil off; which I could again top up to 12L in the FV. Sound reasonable?

Any advice appreciated.

 

[HarryFlatters]

It's not a SMaSH, but I'm sure it'll be nice.

I factor in 1 litre of absorption for each kilogram of grain. Losses to hops are insignificant so I don't worry about it. I lose about 4 litres an hour in boil off, but everyone's system is different. If you were 2 litres under on your last brew, start with 2 litre extra or sparge with 2 litre extra, if everything else is equal, and see what happens.

Happy brewing :)

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

It's not a SMaSH, but I'm sure it'll be nice.

I factor in 1 litre of absorption for each kilogram of grain. Losses to hops are insignificant so I don't worry about it. I lose about 4 litres an hour in boil off, but everyone's system is different. If you were 2 litres under on your last brew, start with 2 litre extra or sparge with 2 litre extra, if everything else is equal, and see what happens.

Happy brewing :)

Ah..course, multiple malts makes it by definition NOT a SmASH to start with....doh!

As I only have a 15L kettle and don't want boil overs due to over filling it- I am guessing a top up in FV instead of extra mash or sparge water is okay at a push?

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

Also forgot to say I have used US-05 for all my BIAB's so far and would like to try something different...perhaps Mangrove Jack's M44? Would this work well?

 

[foxbat]

It's a good recipe. Galaxy has a reputation for being harsh if used early but it's wonderful when used late so you've got it right.

3l/kg for the mash is pretty much the "standard" ratio that you see quoted so you should have no problems there.

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

3l/kg for the mash is pretty much the "standard" ratio that you see quoted so you should have no problems there.[/QUOTE]

Thanks mate...I'm annoyed I bought Galaxy ages ago and never brewed with it so it went past it's BBE and I chucked them. Really want to give it a go now; especially as I really like it in Vocation's "Love and Hate" combined with Citra. ​

 

[HarryFlatters]

Ah..course, multiple malts makes it by definition NOT a SmASH to start with....doh!

And multiple hops too, but as Foxbat states, Galaxy can add harshness when used early so Magnum is a good choice, it's my go-to bittering hop.

If you're struggling for volume, maybe sparge into a separate pot and add the runnings later on in the boil when there's enough room in your stock pot? I've never done this so I don't know what implications this may have.

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

And multiple hops too, but as Foxbat states, Galaxy can add harshness when used early so Magnum is a good choice, it's my go-to bittering hop.

If you're struggling for volume, maybe sparge into a separate pot and add the runnings later on in the boil when there's enough room in your stock pot? I've never done this so I don't know what implications this may have.

So aside from the fact there isn't a single malt and there isn't a single hop...I am perfectly right in labelling it a SmASH....lol. Ah well; long as the recipe looks okay that's the main thing! I have 10g of Magnum left over from previous brew and I didn't want to bitter with Galaxy as it seems a waste so that's good.

Hmm that's an idea...as you say never done it so don't know if it's a better option than simply topping up in FV or not.

 

[Ben034]

Also forgot to say I have used US-05 for all my BIAB's so far and would like to try something different...perhaps Mangrove Jack's M44? Would this work well?

Haven't tried M44 but I think it will be very similar to US05, as in both are neutral to allow the hops to shine.

I've moved from US-05 to the CML "Five - US Ale" yeast for this type of beer as it's cheaper and does the same for me.

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

Haven't tried M44 but I think it will be very similar to US05, as in both are neutral to allow the hops to shine.

I've moved from US-05 to the CML "Five - US Ale" yeast for this type of beer as it's cheaper and does the same for me.

Interesting- in the past CML was quite cheap for ingredients so this is good to know if I ever go back to them (last time I got the custom grain kit from Geterbrewed which worked out cheaper).

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Mangrove Jack's M44? Would this work well?

M44 West Coast is generally thought to be a repacked Lallemand BRY-97. In which case it's notoriously slow to get started, but a lot of people who've tried it prefer it over US-05 if you're looking for a yeast that's clean and nondescript.

 

[trueblue]

I brew Dennis King's galaxy delight on a regular basis and find any harshness will disappeared if allowed to mature for at least a month.

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

@Northern_Brewer and @trueblue thank you for those comments...I am guessing harshness is when you use Galaxy as the bittering hop as well?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

You can use Galaxy for bittering, it's just a really expensive way to do it. The point about antipodean hops in general and Galaxy in particular is that they tend to have a lot of polyphenols, which can contribute to hop burn when used in large amounts cold side (and also intereacts with protein-rich grists to form haze). People are still figuring out how that all works, it seems to vary quite a bit from brewer to brewer.

 

[Hengoedbrewer]

That's interesting. My first BIAB AG was an all Citra IPA because I love Citra. I think though I'd swap Citra for a cheaper bittering hop next time and because it is so much more effective as a flavour / aroma hop. The beer was actually okay as a first attempt, too dark as I used 10% Crystal Malt, so it was more a Citra BITTER colour wise, but still encouraging. Excited to see how I get on with Galaxy with a nice clean bittering hop, and then probably re-brewing the Citra one with a similar hop schedule.

 

[matt76]

M44 West Coast is generally thought to be a repacked Lallemand BRY-97. In which case it's notoriously slow to get started, but a lot of people who've tried it prefer it over US-05 if you're looking for a yeast that's clean and nondescript.

They're also said to be the same strain as Wyeast 1272 American Ale II (according to a recent Experimental Brewing podcast).

And with regard to it being a notoriously slow starter - yes I read that to. Except when I used a pack of M44 recently it took off like a rocket and promptly tried to climb out the FV through the airlock! (1272 has done that to me in the past too)

Oh, and both 1272 and M44 were neutral - they don't attenuate quite as much as 1056 or US-05 but they flocculate better and stick better to the bottom of the bottle.

 

[matt76]

Losses to hops are insignificant so I don't worry about it.

I've got to disagree with you there mate...

Fair enough, you may not worry about it but if you're doing smaller batches like the OP (or me!) then it is a more significant loss...

I generally get 9L crystal clear wort in the FV, then I collect another 3-4L hoppy sludge from the bottom of the kettle. Rather then throw this away I let it settle out some more, and also filter it, which nets me an extra 2-3L crystal clear wort in the FV

 

[HarryFlatters]

Fair point @matt76

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

They're also said to be the same strain as Wyeast 1272 American Ale II (according to a recent Experimental Brewing podcast).

And with regard to it being a notoriously slow starter - yes I read that to. Except when I used a pack of M44 recently it took off like a rocket and promptly tried to climb out the FV through the airlock! (1272 has done that to me in the past too)

Oh, and both 1272 and M44 were neutral - they don't attenuate quite as much as 1056 or US-05 but they flocculate better and stick better to the bottom of the bottle.

I’ve used the M44 twice now and, although having read previously it’s a slow starter, on both occasions for me it’s taken off like a train and created a mini volcano. The latest is a Summit pale ale which is in the FV at the moment and made a right mess of the brew fridge yet again.

 

[BeerisGOD]

I’ve used the M44 twice now and, although having read previously it’s a slow starter, on both occasions for me it’s taken off like a train and created a mini volcano. The latest is a Summit pale ale which is in the FV at the moment and made a right mess of the brew fridge yet again.

Ive found with the last batch with this yeast if u want it to get off well start it at its peak temp (i think it doesnt mind 25c) the krausen was over an inch thick.
This time round i pitched around 21c and its definately lagged but its got a half inch of krausen. The smell from the airlock tells me its doing something
(The 3 piece airlock isnt the best indicator atm as theres some starsan suckback)