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Have a go at simple AG

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dleary

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I'm giving this a go for the first time tonight just going with the standard recipe but using 20g Mosaic hops. It's going well so far apart from the mess I'm making. Just a quick question is it really necessary to sieve the hops when pouring into the FV? Is there any downsides if I don't filter out the hops or will it just make the beer hoppier? Anyway I've decided to go with the recipe this time and will use a sieve but just curious about that step so any help with that would be grateful.
 

MmmBeer

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If the hops are left in too long, they start to impart a grassy flavour rather than their natural hop flavour. Sieve that beer.
 

dleary

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Thanks for that and good to know, I also did a 15 minute pale ale extract recipe that the basicbrewing guys from youtube do and they suggest to leave everything in, I guess however that beer is fermented within the week or so but for their recipe there is double the amount of hops than for this one. Anyway will be interested to compare the two once they are ready.
 

cushyno

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If I don't say it someone else will...

2+2+2
2 weeks to ferment
2 weeks to condition
2 weeks to carb up.

I've done two AG brews inspired by this thread and can say as a generation rule that works well.

I've been amazed at how hop and malt flavours continue to change. For example, a SMaSH based with Fuggles (first one I attempted) that has had 6 weeks conditioning in the bottle has changed so much just over the last week, going from really earthy to more minty. It's a very drinkable and subtle beer that's changed my impression of the hop completely in 1-2 weeks.
 

AlienMarky

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I've done a few of these now and I have to say I've been super impressed with not only the method, but also the results! To the point I made the fatal error of going to the LHBS after payday and buying a bunch more grain... With the 1gal recipe, if you're going to add another grain (i.e. rye crystal), would you add it to the 1kg of maris otter, or make it so the grain bill is still 1kg, and adjust the amount of fluid to compensate for absorption? Also, I saw some posts about giving the grain bag a good squeeze; I have a press for doing wine, would it be overkill to give it a quick squash with that? Not until it made a cake, but enough to extract some of the fluid.
 

cushyno

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I've done a few of these now and I have to say I've been super impressed with not only the method, but also the results! To the point I made the fatal error of going to the LHBS after payday and buying a bunch more grain... With the 1gal recipe, if you're going to add another grain (i.e. rye crystal), would you add it to the 1kg of maris otter, or make it so the grain bill is still 1kg, and adjust the amount of fluid to compensate for absorption? Also, I saw some posts about giving the grain bag a good squeeze; I have a press for doing wine, would it be overkill to give it a quick squash with that? Not until it made a cake, but enough to extract some of the fluid.
I'm no expert on the subject, but I believe rye is fermentable and will give you additional sugars. Greg Hughes book recommends max 50% rye in a mash. I think it needs the enzymes from barley to break down the rye starches. GH states that crystal is there for colours and flavours and doesn't add much from mashing, however Brewers Friend software seems to increase the gravity and potential alcohol when I add it to a recipie so there may be some fermentable sugars after mashing. You don't need much crystal in a recipie for it to affect the colour and flavour, 5%-10% should be enough.
 

dleary

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If I don't say it someone else will...

2+2+2
2 weeks to ferment
2 weeks to condition
2 weeks to carb up.

I've done two AG brews inspired by this thread and can say as a generation rule that works well.

I've been amazed at how hop and malt flavours continue to change. For example, a SMaSH based with Fuggles (first one I attempted) that has had 6 weeks conditioning in the bottle has changed so much just over the last week, going from really earthy to more minty. It's a very drinkable and subtle beer that's changed my impression of the hop completely in 1-2 weeks.
Thanks just came on here to ask this exact question. I put on a 5 litre batch last Thursday and activity in airlock is already slowing down under a week but will give it two weeks all the same
 

dleary

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If I don't say it someone else will...

2+2+2
2 weeks to ferment
2 weeks to condition
2 weeks to carb up.

I've done two AG brews inspired by this thread and can say as a generation rule that works well.

I've been amazed at how hop and malt flavours continue to change. For example, a SMaSH based with Fuggles (first one I attempted) that has had 6 weeks conditioning in the bottle has changed so much just over the last week, going from really earthy to more minty. It's a very drinkable and subtle beer that's changed my impression of the hop completely in 1-2 weeks.
Actually just to confirm when you say 2 weeks condition, 2 weeks carb up that all takes place in bottles right?
 

AlienMarky

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Actually just to confirm when you say 2 weeks condition, 2 weeks carb up that all takes place in bottles right?
I've always left it in the FV to ferment, but if the sediment has been bad moved it into a new FV to finish off conditioning before bottling and carbonating it.
 

dleary

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So would you move it to a secondary FV even for such a small batch as 5 litres?
 

AlienMarky

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Only if the sediment was super bad, otherwise no. I haven't had to move it yet. I normally do wines so I'm used to racking off the lees, but trying to resist the urge to do so with beer so far!
 

dleary

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so sorry if I'm sounding slow this evening so you're saying 4 weeks in the FV (2 to ferment and 2 to condition)?
 

AlienMarky

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That's generally what I've been following, yes. Apologies for the sporadic replies, brewing an elderberry wine at the same time!
 
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