Have a go at simple AG

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by clibit, Feb 16, 2015.

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  1. May 26, 2019 #1541

    TL4244

    TL4244

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    I followed the suggested method at the start of this thread and made 2 batches (although I used cascade hops on 1 batch) and a week in the fermentation seems to have finished and (considering it is at room temperature and just out of the FV) the results taste good (when taking an SG reading are you supposed to put the sample back, throw it away or is drinking it considered acceptable?). It is certainly far better that the 2 kits I have attempted (and not been pleased with the results - muntons premium larger which is far too dark for a larger).

    I was thinking of trying the see what different the various malts make, is it OK to boil 2 batches 1 with just base malt and another with say crystal malt and then mix in different proportions to get several different compositions to then ferment and try, it would be a lot less work than trying to boil several batches?
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  2. May 26, 2019 #1542

    the_quick

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    Chuck the sample, as you are risking an infection.
    I would leave it in fermentor for 2 weeks at least. It allows for beer to clear. If you have second bucket, transfer to it for packaging, leaving behind all the trub. I haven't used one at the beginning, but now use it for every beer - makes a huge difference.

    You always need most of base malts - those would be your pale malt, pale marris otter, pilsner malts etc. Crystal, caramel, chocolate, roasted and so one are addition malts, for coloring and give sweeter taste to some beers.
    On brewers friend you can search for lots of recipes for free, it is great resource
     
  3. May 27, 2019 #1543

    TL4244

    TL4244

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    Hi, Thanks for the advice.

    I have seen a vast array of recipes, but I do not know what the different malts taste like and hence I can not work out which to try, I know I could try some and see how they work out, but as I (will soon) have the ability to boil a 20l batch and a 5l batch (finished volumes) at the same time I was contemplating making a 20l batch with just 4kg of pale malt (+ hops) and a 5l batch with 750g pale malt and 250g crystal malt then mixing in different quantities to get different blends of pale and crystal malt e.g. 5 different batches each of 5l that would have from 0g to 100g of crystal malt, I could then find out what the different concentrations taste like (and then try it with different malts). Is is possible to mix worts like this post boil?

    Thanks
     
  4. May 27, 2019 #1544

    JohnB

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    @TL4244 Hi, I find the joy of home brewing is to experiment, and what you are suggesting is a good idea. I like your idea of making test batches from one main brew. Perhaps you might like to Google the word parti-gyle it is a term used by the big brewhouses to get two or more beers from one large batch of base wort by adding varying adjuncts after the base wort has been divided up.

    There are a couple of vids on youtube describing and showing a howto parti-gyle in small batches. Well worth a look and a good starting point for what you are proposing. In one vid the guys at "basic brewing", James Spencer and Steve Wilkes do an excellent job of teaching the basics of parti-gyle, making 3 different beers from one batch of wort.
     
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  5. May 28, 2019 #1545

    TL4244

    TL4244

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    @JohnB Thank you for the info - I have had a look at the videos and they provide some good information. I will give it a go and see how it turns out.
     
  6. May 31, 2019 #1546

    Markk

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    I think have all the equipment I need to give the brew in the OP a go except a thermometer and straining bag so I'm really tempted to pick these up and give this a go when my FV is free. One small point, the OP is so old I am finding it impossible to find a KG of Maris Otter anywhwere for a pound fifty now! :)
     
  7. May 31, 2019 #1547

    dleary

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  8. Jun 1, 2019 #1548

    Markk

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  9. Oct 11, 2019 #1549

    fiddlerjon

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    hi Clibit
    Thanks for the fantastic recipe. I am hoping to try it this weekend. I have returned to the beginning, but I can't find the youtube video. Do you still have the link?
    Jonathan
     
  10. Oct 11, 2019 #1550

    MyQul

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    Clibit no longer posts on the forum. Which video did you mean, as there isn't one in the OP
     
  11. Oct 11, 2019 #1551

    Lee246

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    I've brewed the original smash recipe from Clibit, an Amarillo pale ale, a Belgian witbier, and a turbo cider. The Amarillo was amazing, got lots or praise from friends and relatives. The witbier was ok to start and got a lot better as it conditioned. The turbo cider was so easy to brew and was lethal. I had a witbier and turbo cider session that ended up in a visit from paramedics so I need to refine my recipe and stop being so greedy.
     
  12. Oct 12, 2019 #1552

    Oneflewover

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    There used to be a video guide involving stove top biab in one of clibit's posts on this thread, I remember watching it when I was stepping into all-grain brewing. I wonder if it got lost in the forum conversion a couple of years ago?

    @fiddlerjon if you Google 'stovetop brew in a bag' there are several videos you could take a look at to get the gist. Good luck
     
  13. Oct 19, 2019 #1553

    OliH

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    Hi all, quite new to this forum but been doing kit brews on and off for a while, I ve got the Youngs AIPA nearly ready to barrel, and thought I'd have a go at this simple all grain recipe. I have followed it almost to the letter using fuggle hops and muntons gold yeast.
    The brew day went well and measured 1.040 with the Hydrometer before adding yeast.
    After 24 hours there seemed to be no activity. So I placed it on a heat mat to get it going, and forgot about it! It had reached 28 degrees! and bubbling like mad but no Krausen.
    Now 40 hours later the hydrometer reading is 1.010 still bubbling and it smells and taste OK.
    My real question is what should the rough FG be, and how long should it take to get there?
    Also how will the high temperature have effected it?
    Any advice or comments would be very appreciated!
    Cheers, Oli
     
  14. Oct 19, 2019 #1554

    MyQul

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    If the FG is 1.010 it looks like its done. The fact you had it at 28C meant that it would have fermented much faster. Normally for a 1.040 it would take about 3 days.
    When you ferment at high temps you can produce all sorts of off flavours (unless you're using a yeast that can tolerate high temps - I dont know about muntons gold as I've never used it). However you say it tastes ok, so you may have got away with it.
    So just leave it alone for a total of two weeks, take another hydrometer reading to make sure, then bottle it
     
  15. Oct 19, 2019 #1555

    OliH

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    Thanks MyQul, gives me a bit of reassurance! It smells a little like toast, but I guess this is normal because of the yeast still present?
     
  16. Oct 19, 2019 #1556

    MyQul

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    I've never really though of my beer as smelling like toast but that is probably just me as 'toastyness' is a common descriptor for beer depending on the malts used
     
  17. Oct 19, 2019 #1557

    venkman100

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    This is a long thread. So sorry if this has already been mentioned.. Just purchased a Robobrew. Checked its ok, but not used yet. Never done an all grain yet. But this method of brewing a small amount of beer seems a great way of using up small amounts of leftover hops.
     
  18. Oct 29, 2019 #1558

    fiddlerjon

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    Thanks, OneFlewOver. I will do.
     
  19. Oct 31, 2019 #1559

    OliH

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    So, Ive just bottled my first AG brew, seems ok, it is quite week but the flavour that is there seems good, it is slightly sweet and very clear already, just got to wait a few weeks now.
    On my next brew I intend to make between 10l and 15l BIAB would this be ok to put in a 25l barrel? I found the whole bottling process a bit of a faff and would like to avoid it, in the past I have done 23l kits into a barrel and it seems a lot easier to me!
    Just wondered if putting a small amount into a large barrel would effect the carbonation and would it mean there would be more oxidisation?
    Or can you get a 15l PB?
    Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
     
  20. Nov 1, 2019 #1560

    MmmBeer

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    It's not generally best practice to half fill a barrel, not sure if smaller ones are readily available. If I had to do it, I would try and purge some of the excess oxygen from the headspace by adding some CO2 and partially venting.
     

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