As long as you got a CO2 cover shouldn't be a problem, oxidation needs oxygen if I remember correctly from my school chemistry.
Take a whiff on day 10, it'll sting in your nose!
Have a go at simple AG
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Take a whiff on day 10, it'll sting in your nose!
I’ll go with this or the clingfilm idea I think.
Probably overthinking keeping it protected a little.. easy to forget a lot of beer is fermented in open top vats!
There's a risk of contamination in open vats or any form of openness and places that open ferment know what they are doing, what microbes are present and work hard to exclude others.
It's wise for us to be careful. Airlock, lid, bung, cling film, foil will all keep baddies at bay and allow gas to escape if used appropriately. A layer of CO2 sitting on the beer is good too to protect it from air.
Hoping to get this going tonight, depending on how quickly youngster goes to sleep.
1kg Maris Otter
EKG
M36 Mangrove Jacks yeast.
Hops are fairly low at 3.2% AA so inclined to stick 10g in with the boil and dry hop for flavour.
Excited to get it going!
1kg Maris Otter
EKG
M36 Mangrove Jacks yeast.
Hops are fairly low at 3.2% AA so inclined to stick 10g in with the boil and dry hop for flavour.
Excited to get it going!
Good news… youngster was fast off to asleep and I’ve cracked on with brewing.
I have mashed, boiled and cooked. Just preparing to transfer to FV and pitch the yeast.
I seem to have a very clear separation between clear wort and ‘stuff’ at the bottom. How much of the grub should I be transferring to the FV?
I’m thinking sling it all in as it will likely settle out just as it has here?
I have mashed, boiled and cooked. Just preparing to transfer to FV and pitch the yeast.
I seem to have a very clear separation between clear wort and ‘stuff’ at the bottom. How much of the grub should I be transferring to the FV?
I’m thinking sling it all in as it will likely settle out just as it has here?
After a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
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This is bubbling away nicely.After a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
View attachment 91652 View attachment 91651
I ended up with 5.5 litres in the end, less than expected but forgot that previously I had used smaller grain quantities and DME. I suppose next time I'll start of with 10l.
NB. The bucket looks big but it's only 10l capacity. And the lid is bulging so the beer is well protected. Yes, I use an airlock.
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Nice picturesAfter a few months I did a "simple AG" brew this morning - BIAB style.
I just used what I have currently available, chucked it all together, no calculations or SG taken!
What can go wrong??
- 1 kg of Amber Malt
- 0.2 kg Wheat Malt
- 14l S/S pot on kitchen induction hob
- starting water volume 9l - gives me normally around 6.5 to 7l post boil
- 60 minute mash in the bag, starting at 72c
- 10g Target hops @ start of boil (bittering)
- 20g Citra hops @ last 10 minutes (aroma)
Having had a water meter fitted recently thought about how I can save water when cooling wort. So I thought I just leave the pot in the shed. Don't have one of those plastic cubes which are quite popular. So tomorrow morning I will pitch the yeast. Taped the lid down as it doesn't shut tightly, don't want a sour beer (not yet anyway!). Yeast is the last sachet I have, from a kit, can't remember which one, but still date.
Other observations:
- used a hop spider for the first time, brilliant helps cut down the amount of sludge remaining in the wort.
- the BIAB bag I have for that pot is pretty useless for the volume of grains, it hasn't got a flat bottom so when lifting it out of the pot wort is splattering all over, so need to get a better bag. Best to spend a bit extra - anyone know a good supplier?
- don't get distracted by other things as you wait for the boil to start. Had the lid on with a big gap but didn't notice it had slid into place and in no time there was a small boil over. Watch that pot!
- induction hob is brilliant we had one fitted earlier this year. Much easier to clean than the gas hob we had.
Anyway, hope in about a couple of weeks I should know how it turned out.
Will take a FG reading to make sure.
Couple of pics here:
View attachment 91652 View attachment 91651
What's the plastic cube you mentioned for cooling?
Large plastic food grade water containers/cubes - can't remember what name they are sold under. But seems to be the goto for no-chill (slow chill?).
Thanks. What's the principal behind how they work?
Freezing the whole thing and then pour in the wort?
No - sanitize, just pour in hot wort and leave in a cool place, overnight or for longer. Pour into FV pitch yeast. Don't need to use lots of water for cooling.
See thread here: Dropping the temp
You only need a cube if you are going to store your wort for a while (days) before begining fermentation.
My no chill method is to leave in the kettle for a hour or so, then go directly from kettle to plastic FV. Leave overnight & add yeast when cool enough.
My no chill method is to leave in the kettle for a hour or so, then go directly from kettle to plastic FV. Leave overnight & add yeast when cool enough.
