Help making a re circulation pump

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rich1985

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I'm currently only getting about 50% efficiency using biab with my ace boiler (picture attached). I'm using batch sparge method (I leave the gunk from the bottom of the mash tun and kettle in to clear the wort; I also do not squeeze the bag). I was thinking of adding a pump to try to improve efficiency. I've found this one. Can anyone help me work out what connectors, tubing I need to buy to get it recirculating?


https://vevor.co.uk/products/magnet...evuFNsdL5zm26nTgEtuxn8gnmbo2u-tsvgQF7Dh0yoXyA
 

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Apart from your choice of pump, you haven’t given us much to go on in terms of what you want do. I’ve found out the MPT thread is a male NPT thread so that sorts the pump out. Do you intend to mount the pump on anything? How do you see it being connected to your boiler? Have you got a sparge gadget in mind to return wort to the boiler? If so what connections, if any, does it have? I‘ve just noticed the pump is 110 volt 60 Hz. Your in America?
More questions than answers I’m afraid.
 
Hi there,

Thanks for replying!
So I was planning on mounting it with a bungee cord holding it in place. Also on terms of sparge arm, I was just going to use the tube as then I could leave most of the lid on.
This is obviously not the right pump as I'm in the UK. I'll need to find another affordable one.
This is the one that I got my inspiration from but want something simpler and also I'm so bad at DIY so basically the simplest version possible!
 

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At this stage I can only advise. Your pump should be securely mounted on something, as in your attached picture. For ease of cleaning I would suggest camlock connectors on a length of silicone pipe from mash tun tap to pump IN port. Consider mounting a tap on the OUT port of the pump to control flow. A camlock connector on the OUT port of the tap and a length of copper pipe up to the top of the mash tun. If you can’t bend the copper pipe to get it pointing into your tun, use two compression elbow connectors and short lengths of copper pipe to form a “U”. First job though, decide on your pump.
 
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-a-male-x-12bsp-female/this will fit the pump IN and OUT

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-c-female-barb/
this for each end of the silicone tube

https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/69358
this to the tap OUT

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-b-female-x-12-bsp-male/
this for the tap IN

What kind of connection do you have at the tun tap? What height are you needing as you might need an extra length of copper pipe from the tap to the flexible stick.
 
I modded an ACE with recirc once. It won't increase mash efficiency all that much, what it does do is help maintaining a more even mash temperature through the grist.
 

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Agree with above, efficiency wouldn't improve significantly. Often see 80% on efficiency for BIB can you go through your process and maybe with some pics?
 
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-a-male-x-12bsp-female/this will fit the pump IN and OUT

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-c-female-barb/
this for each end of the silicone tube

https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/69358
this to the tap OUT

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/product/camlock-type-b-female-x-12-bsp-male/
this for the tap IN

What kind of connection do you have at the tun tap? What height are you needing as you might need an extra length of copper pipe from the tap to the flexible stick.
This is really helpful. I think I will need extra copper pipe as it is definitely taller than 30cm. How would I go about connecting the copper pipe to the flexible hose? And indeed the copper pipe to the tap?

I'll need to dig out the connection to the mash tun as I'm running late for work but this is a picture of it if that helps

1600667314871.png
 
Agree with above, efficiency wouldn't improve signific

antly. Often see 80% on efficiency for BIB can you go through your process and maybe with some pics?

Thanks for the advice so far. I might pursue this regardless to regulate my temperature. Regarding my process:

Heat Water to required Mash temp (2.5l per kilo of grain).
Mash time of 1 hour (stir at half an hour).
After an hour, drain off about 3 litres slowly and pour back over the top. Raise temp at this point to 77.
Open the tap and let first runnings drain off over about ten minutes.

While this has happening, heating up sparge water to get it to 77ish.
Once first runnings have drained, pour in sparge water (turn heater on if the mash temp is below 77).
Leave for ten minutes and then open up tap and drain over ten minutes.

Once this is finished, I leave my bag of grains at a height to drip off the residual sugars. I do not currently squeeze.

All this then goes on to the boil.

I won't be able to do pictures as I've got three full kegs, I'm just trying to get ready for next brew when I run out! Thanks everyone for the help!
 
I haven't done BIB but have often read posts on it, most seem to prefer full volume liquor to grain and regular stirring. So no sparge. As for squeezing the bag there was some debate on this a while back whether it would be adding tannins into the kettle, from what I have read most folk are happy to squeeze. Don't know if this is any help but always worth a read.
Australian Brew-in-a-Bag Technique - Brew Your Own
 
I bought my pump (like that in the OP but with BSP threads) on AliExpress. It took a month or so to arrive but was reasonably priced (around £40-45). I mounted mine on a wooden base so it sits on the floor or bench and fitted it to a trailing lead operated by a footswitch. I use silicon hoses and camlocks (these get hot!) for all my connections.
 
If you're on a budget then you might be interested in one of these little hot water 12V pumps - only £12.70 and arrived within 7 days.

The flow rate isn't exactly Niagra but it's pretty good: even after pumping through 10m of 8mm pipe in my heat exchanger it still gives 6 litres per min, which is plenty enough for recirculation in my case.

Connections are 1/2" BSP so I just use a couple of barb connectors and silicone hose (cheaper than disconnects)
IMG_5019.jpg
 
If you're on a budget then you might be interested in one of these little hot water 12V pumps - only £12.70 and arrived within 7 days.

The flow rate isn't exactly Niagra but it's pretty good: even after pumping through 10m of 8mm pipe in my heat exchanger it still gives 6 litres per min, which is plenty enough for recirculation in my case.

Connections are 1/2" BSP so I just use a couple of barb connectors and silicone hose (cheaper than disconnects)
View attachment 32939
I use this type of pump. The only issue is bits of malt jamming the rotor. I contain my malt in a BIAB type bag that lines my mash tun that seems to filter out the bits pretty well. I use a model railway controller to vary the speed rather than a tap.
 
This is really helpful. I think I will need extra copper pipe as it is definitely taller than 30cm. How would I go about connecting the copper pipe to the flexible hose? And indeed the copper pipe to the tap?

I'll need to dig out the connection to the mash tun as I'm running late for work but this is a picture of it if that helps

View attachment 32938

https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-equal-couplers-15mm-2-pack/95828
this will connect two lengths of 15mm copper pipe. The “compression adapting male coupler 15mm x 1/2 inch” in my list (item 3) will connect tap out to copper pipe. Fit tap IN directly to pump OUT.
You’ll need one of these to cut copper pipe.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/3-28mm-manual-multi-material-pipe-cutter/49428
 
I got my little pump from Brewbuilder for £47.50 plus the cost of a PSU. It handles some solids, and you control the flow with a tape on the output. Flow is pretty decent with them (TS5-mini mag) and the 1/2" BSP fittings on them are stainless steel.

Buffers, you are massively overthinking/over-engineering a simple re-circulation setup for an ACE boiler, massively. You seriously don't need all of that. Some silicone hose, some QD/camlock fittings, a pump and a tap to regulate the flow (you don't want to run full flow for re-circulating overly). With my little TS5 I didn't need to fasten it to anything, I just attached it using some 90 degree elbows and QD fittings to the tap on my ACE, then the hose to the other end. Cut a hole in the lit of my ACE, fitted a bulkhead and a T piece on the inside for the return from the re-circh, job was done. Lag the hose with some pipe lagging, and you'll have even less lost heat when mashing. I even made a fitting that I could hook up to my hose to do a bit of a whirlpool when cooling the wort with an immersion chiller.

IMG_20180407_120138.jpg

Oh and yes Foxy, I used to get around 80% efficiency with full volume BIAB, no sparging. Mash for a bit longer, make sure when you "stir" you actually lift the malt off the bottom rather than just swirling the liquid, dough in thoroughly, check you have a decent mash pH, all of this helps efficiency more than re-circulation. In fact, the main reason I added re-ciruclation, well it helps if you want to have a go at doing stepped mashing, it also helps with getting clearer wort, until you squeeze the bag.... lol A gentle squeeze you're ok, too hard and you squeeze all the flour out of the grain right into your wort.... I used to try to tie my bag really tightly over the top of the bag instead, then tighten it more and more, with the bag hanging over the boiler. If you are using the ACE bag though, it's not designed to be squeezed, all you can do is find a way to hang it over the boiler whilst you wait for the wort to come to the boil. Here's the thing, the more you liquid you get out of the bag and into the boil, the higher your efficiency goes as your volume goes up. Get a larger volume of wort of the right SG, boil it enough to get to target OG, you have a larger volume of wort at target OG, et voila, higher brewhouse efficiency. The more you lose along the way, the more your brewhouse drops off. Another trick, bag your hops in the boil, skim the foam when it reaches boiling, then transfer EVERYTHING out of the boiler to your FV after cooling, again, more volume in your FV.... lol
 
Buffers, you are massively overthinking/over-engineering a simple re-circulation setup for an ACE boiler, massively. You seriously don't need all of that. Some silicone hose, some QD/camlock fittings, a pump and a tap to regulate the flow
ashock1
The OP requested...
Can anyone help me work out what connectors, tubing I need to buy to get it recirculating?
Based on the subsequent picture posted I suggested.....
For ease of cleaning I would suggest camlock connectors on a length of silicone pipe from mash tun tap to pump IN port. Consider mounting a tap on the OUT port of the pump to control flow. A camlock connector on the OUT port of the tap and a length of copper pipe up to the top of the mash tun.
How is that “overthinking/over-engineering” when it’s exactly what you are suggesting? Perhaps you should detail out the fittings and parts that @rich1985 needs bearing in mind that he says he has limited DIY skills rather than have a dig at me for trying to help a fellow brewer out.
 
Already did, take a look at the photo, a few posts back, of an actual ACE modded with re-circ, with all the parts you need right there in the photo.... Even named the actual pump used in another post. Nice try though.
 
Already did, take a look at the photo, a few posts back, of an actual ACE modded with re-circ, with all the parts you need right there in the photo.... Even named the actual pump used in another post. Nice try though.
Yes, nice pictures. But can’t see how that helps identify the parts needed. Can’t see how that’s “simpler” than what I was suggesting, still, you obviously know best. I’m sure @rich1985 will appreciate your contribution and making things simpler for him, especially when it comes to sourcing the fittings. Nice talkin’ to you. :hat:
 
The only issue is bits of malt jamming the rotor.
Aaaah! Thanks for the heads up on that... no issues with that yet but something I’ll watch out for. I mash without a bag, but in a bucket-in-a-bucket where I’ve replaced the base of the inner bucket with 0.6mm stainless ‘anti rodent‘ mesh. So far this (and presumably the mash bed that builds up above it) has worked pretty well to keep the grains and miscellaneous flotsum out of the pipework but I’ve probably jinxed it now!
 

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