WilliamGladstone99
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Hello I have brewed a few beers and most of them have been quite light hoppy numbers which have tasted fine out of the keg after only a few days.
However, I have brewed a beer whose original gravity was around 1040. According to GW book this needs 4 weeks maturation. Is this really the case?
This may be due to the Challenger hops which are strong and acidic.
I am tempted to think acidity falls into two categories: industrial acidity which is unpleasant and can only be removed by maturing; and hoppy acidity which is actually pleasant.
Would anyone like to comment on this? Which hops lead to beers which need long maturation and which do not?
Another question relates to suitable lid for the keg
I wonder if anyone can help me here. Most of the equipment I have comes from a Woodfordes Wherry Micro Brewery beer kit. I am now maturing a brew in the secondary fermentation vessel that came with this kit.
Only question is: since this kit came with two lids, have I put the right lid on for the secondary fermentation?
These kits come with two kinds of lid: one is a standard lid which is basically airtight but allows for some air infiltration to allow the internal pressure of the barrel to adjust as beer is emptied out: the second type has a CO2 injector valve where you can attach a small cylinder of the aforesaid gas ( as used on soda bottles).
Normally you attach first kind of lid during primary fermentation. I, thinking I was doing the right thing, attached the second.
Was this a mistake? It is very difficult to drain out any beer, via the lower tap, unless gas, of some sort, is filling the top space created by the vacating beer.
I suppose the advantage of using the first method was the escape valve could allow the escape of any C02 created as yeast ferments any sugars etc left.
The advantages of the second method is I suppose that gas above beer can only be inert C02.
At any rate, my maturation process does not seem to be going well.
Which is the most suitable lid?
However, I have brewed a beer whose original gravity was around 1040. According to GW book this needs 4 weeks maturation. Is this really the case?
This may be due to the Challenger hops which are strong and acidic.
I am tempted to think acidity falls into two categories: industrial acidity which is unpleasant and can only be removed by maturing; and hoppy acidity which is actually pleasant.
Would anyone like to comment on this? Which hops lead to beers which need long maturation and which do not?
Another question relates to suitable lid for the keg
I wonder if anyone can help me here. Most of the equipment I have comes from a Woodfordes Wherry Micro Brewery beer kit. I am now maturing a brew in the secondary fermentation vessel that came with this kit.
Only question is: since this kit came with two lids, have I put the right lid on for the secondary fermentation?
These kits come with two kinds of lid: one is a standard lid which is basically airtight but allows for some air infiltration to allow the internal pressure of the barrel to adjust as beer is emptied out: the second type has a CO2 injector valve where you can attach a small cylinder of the aforesaid gas ( as used on soda bottles).
Normally you attach first kind of lid during primary fermentation. I, thinking I was doing the right thing, attached the second.
Was this a mistake? It is very difficult to drain out any beer, via the lower tap, unless gas, of some sort, is filling the top space created by the vacating beer.
I suppose the advantage of using the first method was the escape valve could allow the escape of any C02 created as yeast ferments any sugars etc left.
The advantages of the second method is I suppose that gas above beer can only be inert C02.
At any rate, my maturation process does not seem to be going well.
Which is the most suitable lid?