HOW TO GUIDE: STC1000 Build (inc wiring diagrams)

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by naturals, Feb 25, 2018.

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  1. Feb 25, 2018 #1

    naturals

    naturals

    naturals

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    Hi all,
    Just uploaded a new video to YT showing my STC1000 build. Not quite as fancy as some of the installations but it was nice and quick (sub 1hr) and can easily be replicated.

    As ever, I'm very appreciative of likes, subscribes and questions.

     
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  2. Feb 25, 2018 #2

    Bigcol49

    Bigcol49

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  3. Feb 26, 2018 #3

    naturals

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    Nice! I'll add a link to that diagram to the description in case other people want another source.
     
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  4. Feb 26, 2018 #4

    Wouter

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    I love the STC-1000's. They cost like 5 quid and work terrific.
     
  5. Mar 22, 2018 #5

    Wilfy

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  6. Mar 22, 2018 #6

    Bigcol49

    Bigcol49

    Bigcol49

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    Hi!
    The earth is common to both sockets.
    Try this:
    Stc-1000-Temperature-Controller-Wiring-Diagram.jpg
     
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  7. Mar 22, 2018 #7

    Wilfy

    Wilfy

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    Cheers.
     
  8. Mar 22, 2018 #8

    Drunkula

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    I put 10 amp fuses inline with the relays on mine - you can get them in Wilkinsons. I soldered onto each end and then shrink tubed them. Can't guarantee that they'd save the relays but why not.

    I also added an audio jack for the sensor so I can move if between things and leave the probes in place.
     
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  9. Apr 2, 2018 #9

    naturals

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    I just added a new video on how to use an STC1000 (setting temperatures, ranges, etc). Another video coming soon on making a detachable temperature probe.

    Likes, comments, subscribes, etc always greatly appreciated.

     
  10. Apr 2, 2018 #10

    Drunkula

    Drunkula

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    F3 isn't how long it keeps it on for, it's how long before it can trigger cooling again. So setting that to a higher number will preserve the compressor, not just the hysteresis.

    If you had it set to 10 when you turn the unit on and cooling is needed notice the cooling light will flash for 10 minutes before turning solid and turning on the cooling circuit, not run it for 10 minutes. If you then heated the probe after cooling had properly kicked in it will stop cooling, not run for 10 minutes - and of course start the timer again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  11. Apr 10, 2018 #11

    AlanHarper

    AlanHarper

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    Just in case anyone was wondering about the terminals and the wires I have deduced the following:

    Heating Terminal 5 = Live mains IN
    Heating Terminal 6 = Switched Live mains OUT

    Cooling Terminal 7 = Live mains IN
    Cooling Terminal 8 = Switched Live mains OUT

    Sometimes lots of wires with the same colour can confuse those with no knowledge of electrics and it is always better to be safe.
     

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