How to make a premium beer kit, from start to finish.

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by tubby_shaw, Aug 12, 2009.

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  1. Apr 17, 2011 #61

    ByronBunch

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    Thanks. That's really helpful. I'll sort some out for next time. Having read this stuff, there are so many things that I haven't done quite right. Here's hoping I'm just a bit lucky! I think I'll try dry hopping the next batch. But that's another thread I'm sure.
    Thanks again.
     
  2. May 10, 2011 #62

    dorset brewer

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    followed your how-to by the letter day, just making sure i understood right.

    I boiled the whole 25L of treated water and am still waiting for the temp to come down to 21-28 degree's. I was then todo the whole lot yeah ? am still to put the yeast in and its been 5 hours since i first mixed everything together.

    temp is at 42 degree's right now so i just wait for it to cool down, currently have it open next to the window to cool down.
     
  3. May 11, 2011 #63

    jampot

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    No need to boil all the water, just enough to help disolve the malt.
     
  4. May 11, 2011 #64

    dorset brewer

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    whoops, well i left it over night and it has cooled down, put the yeast in at 28 degree's hopefully it works.
     
  5. May 11, 2011 #65

    tubby_shaw

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    It'll work :thumb:
     
  6. May 11, 2011 #66

    dorset brewer

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    cool, adding the yeast at 28 degree's would just make it ferment quicker would it not? temped to open it up and and alook too but they will release all the co2 and mess it up right?
     
  7. Jun 13, 2011 #67

    snoopdong

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    Having bought a electrim boiler, and constructed a copper chiller, I am always tempted to boil the whole length... if only for sanitisation reasons...

    ....is there any merit in doing this at all? Can a hot or cold break occur with a kit?

    ....also Irish Moss in a kit brew, wasted effort?

    Best regards,
    Chris
     
  8. Jul 1, 2011 #68

    farmer giles

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    Hi I know its some time but Im now ready to put my homebrew together, you suggested using a beer kit enhancer instead of the sugar it asks for, do I add this in the same quantity as the sugar? also do I add it at the same stage as the sugar?

    Im going to be doing my mix tomorrow, so will be asking a few more questions Im guessing.

    Also thanks for your help and your how to guide its very informative.

    Lee
     
  9. Jul 1, 2011 #69

    tubby_shaw

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    The beer kit enhancer is used instead of sugar :thumb:
    Add it when the instructions say to add sugar instead of the sugar ;)
     
  10. Jul 2, 2011 #70

    farmer giles

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    Many thanks just wanted to be sure, also Ive just sterilised the 2 25l containers and my 25l barrel has buckled at the base and the cap is slighty sunken, any ideas why this has happened? Could it be a dodgy barrel? Im guessing that the cap now not being alligned means that the cap will not be airtight, what advice could you give other than to go back to wilkinsons and get it replaced lol
     
  11. Jul 2, 2011 #71

    tubby_shaw

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    Many thanks just wanted to be sure, also I've just sterilised the 2 25l containers and my 25l barrel has buckled at the base and the cap is slightly sunken, any ideas why this has happened? l[/quote:19p4eipc]
    It sounds to me that you have used a hot sanitising solution and then sealed the keg? If this is the case then as the solution cooled a partial vacuum will have been formed deforming the warm plastic :(
     
  12. Jul 3, 2011 #72

    farmer giles

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    my recipie is asking for 1kg of sugar do i add 1kg of beer enhancer kit?????
    also i noticed that on day 8 u added 50g of sugar????
     
  13. Jul 3, 2011 #73

    tubby_shaw

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    Yes add the 1kg of beer enhancer, but no sugar :thumb:
    The 50g of sugar added on day 8 was priming sugar to give a little life to the beer in the keg :)
     
  14. Jul 4, 2011 #74

    dumphuq

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    Can you use two cans of any make of concentrate, (cheap ;) ) or does it have to be a Premium Kit?
     
  15. Jul 4, 2011 #75

    tubby_shaw

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    What you have to appreciate is that a beer kit whether it is a one can kit or two can is designed to give a certain level of bitterness, so if you use two one can kits to make 40 pints it will be rather bitter ;)
     
  16. Jul 5, 2011 #76

    farmer giles

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    would you advise me to add some sugar at the kegging stage? if so whats the purpose of this?
    also I added the yeast to my wort yesterday and it seems to be doing just fine at the moment thankyou for your help

    Yes add the 1kg of beer enhancer, but no sugar :thumb:
    The 50g of sugar added on day 8 was priming sugar to give a little life to the beer in the keg :)[/quote:1qo3dhpg]
     
  17. Jul 5, 2011 #77

    anthonyUK

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    If you're using some 'silver' cans from a recent offer then the lager or bitter ones will be OK as lager isn't very hopped and the bitter ones don't appear to have any hops in them instead having a hop sachet.
     
  18. Jul 6, 2011 #78

    farmer giles

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    Hi, I added my yeast 2 1/2 days ago now, Im using the wilkinson lager homestarter kit. At what point would you suggest is best to keg/bottle?

    Once I have kegged it, will I be able to store it and bottle it when its ready to drink or do I have to bottle it at this stage?


    Yes add the 1kg of beer enhancer, but no sugar :thumb:
    The 50g of sugar added on day 8 was priming sugar to give a little life to the beer in the keg :)[/quote:1sp2u9zw][/quote:1sp2u9zw]
     
  19. Jul 7, 2011 #79

    tubby_shaw

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    In your starter kit you will have a hydrometer, read the instructions on how to use it, then wait until the yeast has been pitched for at least 7 days, then take a reading and make a note of that reading.
    Take another reading 24 hours later, if it is the same and in the range of 1.014 and 1.000 for a kit, then it is ready to keg or bottle, although it is beneficial to leave for another couple of days to allow more yeast to drop out of suspension.
    If you wish to bottle then ideally it should be done at this stage :thumb:
     
  20. Jul 7, 2011 #80

    farmer giles

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    Im trying to find a kit similar in taste to Newcastle Brown Ale, do you have any suggestions?

    thanks

    In your starter kit you will have a hydrometer, read the instructions on how to use it, then wait until the yeast has been pitched for at least 7 days, then take a reading and make a note of that reading.
    Take another reading 24 hours later, if it is the same and in the range of 1.014 and 1.000 for a kit, then it is ready to keg or bottle, although it is beneficial to leave for another couple of days to allow more yeast to drop out of suspension.
    If you wish to bottle then ideally it should be done at this stage :thumb:[/quote:137vb74p]
     

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