How to use the Tesco Value kettle heating element

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by tubby_shaw, Sep 1, 2010.

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  1. Sep 1, 2010 #1

    tubby_shaw

    tubby_shaw

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    Bloody marvellous :clap:
    A great how to Big Yin, I've never seen the cables from the kettle re used before :cool:
     
  2. Sep 1, 2010 #2

    BigYin

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    Thanks - the idea was to see how cheaply I could do this, so it made sense to try and make best use of everything I could :thumb:
     
  3. Sep 1, 2010 #3

    Aleman

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    It's not an LED as it runs at Mains voltages it's a Neon Light! :D

    Great how to . . . Like the idea of re using the cable . . . When I made my HERMS unit I uses a corded kettle so it was much easier to reuse the kettle lead :whistle: A caution about soldering 'hot' condition terminals though . . . it may be possible over time for the resistance to increase between the spade terminal and the the prong . . . this can generate a lot of heat . . . enough to melt the solder . . . causing a short . . . no problem . . . but then the loose terminal has even more resistance . . . = more heat . . . You are much better off making a secure mechanical crimped connection . .. . which is how most mains electrics is done.
     
  4. Sep 1, 2010 #4

    BigYin

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    I'll make a point of periodically checking the terminals :thumb:

    It was on for a half an hour and there was no problems with either - but I'll keep an eye on it for the future :cheers:
     
  5. Sep 1, 2010 #5

    prolix

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    that is excellent mate! Great how to.
     
  6. Sep 1, 2010 #6

    darrenwest1

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    things you need to be aware of
    each element can pull about 10 amps so do not plug these in side by side on a double plug as these can only take 13a per unit (not each side )
    also you MUST have a 30miliamp rcd or rcbo as you are messing around with water and electrics
    great how to but i am not too keen on having electrics open to water
     
  7. Sep 1, 2010 #7

    BigYin

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    I understand your concern - but everything used here is, well, designed to be used in this way since all the electric parts concerned came from kettles :lol:
     
  8. Sep 1, 2010 #8

    Dunfie

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    Great How To BigYin. :clap:
     
  9. Sep 1, 2010 #9

    Sean_Mc

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    Good stuff Big Yin :thumb:
     
  10. Sep 2, 2010 #10

    Guest

    Bloody brilliant Big Yin :clap:
    One of the most comprehensive "how to's" I've read!
     
  11. Sep 2, 2010 #11

    jamesb

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    A kettle has been designed to be safe. They're also not designed to be on for 90 minutes. Using two kettles side by side for 90 minutes on a double socket is a bad idea. There's been plenty of documented problems and pictures to show why. I've personally had to go round and replace a few peoples sockets because they've done this with their boiler.
     
  12. Sep 2, 2010 #12

    BigYin

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    good advice for everyone that :thumb:

    For me I'm lucky in that where I will be using this I have two separate sockets close together that I will use - one is part of the lower ring mains, the other used to be the immersion heater switch, but it is now a socket, so it's on a separate circuit to the ring mains and can handle a high current draw. So one will be plugged in there, and the other into the ring mains :drink:
     
  13. Sep 7, 2010 #13

    gsidford

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    Thanks for this info, I am off to Tesco's later to complete my boiler to have a go at my first extract brew. !

    Update: they are selling plug in RCD's for about 7 each.
     
  14. Sep 7, 2010 #14

    johnc86

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    this has thrown a spanner in my works :hmm:.

    I had planned to go and buy the kettles tomorrow so I could start on my first extract brew.

    I didn't think on that a 2 gang socket might not be suitable given the amount of current drawn over the amount of time :wha:.

    I was planning on doing it in out utility room. Its part of an extension and does have an rcd board for the electrics.....

    What is the way around this problem? Surely the back kitchen is the best bet given the ring main? Is it just a case of plugging one element into one socket, and the other into another?
     
  15. Sep 8, 2010 #15

    johnc86

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    Nobody? could really do with knowing how to go about this before I make the boiler....
    I don't want to draw unsafe amounts through the sockets or anything....
     
  16. Sep 8, 2010 #16

    jamesb

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    John,

    Only you know how the electrics are in your house and what's best to do. IDEALLY, you'd want each element off a separate ring/circuit but you can use them both off the same ring if you're careful. Just use SEPARATE sockets and if you use an extension lead, ensure it's fully uncoiled and it's up to the amount of current being drawn (about 10A for a kettle element).
     
  17. Sep 8, 2010 #17

    Guest

    Not using a double socket outlet for two kettle elements has appeared on this Forum several times, it makes emminent sense!
    Being careful using two elements on one ring circuit does not make as much sense as it is good for 30A.
    The double socket issue does not appear to be common knowledge, and it has been said that doing so would maked your house insurance invalid!
    Can anybody clarify this with reference to any regulations?
     
  18. Sep 9, 2010 #18

    BigYin

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    Pretty much every 'how to' I've seen about making a boiler with an electric heating element has said to use two - but is that simply a 'speed everything up' issue? Would it work just as well, albeit a bit slower with just one? That would avoid all these electrics woes.. :hmm:

    Putting two in is attractive since they are so cheap, and easy to fit, why not have that extra power available to you? :lol:

    I think the safest way to use the two elements is to ideally have the plugged into separate circuits in the house.

    If that means powering one from the downstairs ring main and one from upstairs, use a suitably rated extension, and if it's one that coils up, extend it completely as such a hugh draw through coiled up cable is going to generate heat (or so the warnings say!).

    The next best option is to plug the elements into the same ring main, but into different sockets - and make sure nothing else is on that will draw a lot of current - washing machine/tumble drier/kettle/heater etc.
     
  19. Sep 9, 2010 #19

    jamesb

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    Aye, until the missus turns the washing machine or microwave on. That's the only reason.

    I have a dedicated ring in my brewery I run two 3kW elements on, but I can be sure that nothing else will be turned on in there.
     
  20. Sep 9, 2010 #20

    rabbie

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    This is a great how to :thumb:
    I am using a bruheat, which has a single 2.4kW element, and that works fine for me (20L length).
    I've never kept a note but reckon it's about 30 mins from turning on the element until I've got a full boil going. That seems to tie in with the physics of heating 30 kg wort by 40C :)
    Extension leads + boilers full of wort are not a good idea, so I would advise against running leads from other rooms.
    One thing I wish the bruheat had was a coupling to remove the cable from the element so I can lift the boiler without dragging the cable round (bit annoying during cleaning). Maybe you could incorporate that?
     

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