How to use the Tesco Value kettle heating element

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by tubby_shaw, Sep 1, 2010.

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  1. Nov 25, 2012 #141

    TRXnMe

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    Aye, no problems, when PM is back up and running again :)
     
  2. Nov 30, 2012 #142

    AndyBWood

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    The pic below is the back of the element removed from the current Tesco kettle.

    [​IMG]

    Anybody got any ideas what the idea behind the copper strip is ? I'm fairly sure it all must be conected with the safety trip, etc, but....... how does it work ???

    The copper strip presses against a small spring-loaded pin on the back of the other half of the element. I can't find a way into this black plastic unit for fear of breaking it.

    [​IMG]

    No real need to know if it just 'works by magic' or 'electrickery' but I'm intrigued........
     
  3. Nov 30, 2012 #143

    tazuk

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    like just keep bending it till it pops off job done :D
     
  4. Dec 1, 2012 #144

    AndyBWood

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    Tazuk - have you removed the copper strip, the copper disk or both ?
     
  5. Dec 7, 2012 #145

    dunks

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    Just remove the copper disc, I used some pliers and just snipped it off, didn't want to break the screw it's attached by (it holds the plastic parts together!)

    You can leave the copper strip on the element part.
     
  6. Dec 8, 2012 #146

    AndyBWood

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    Thanks for the confirmation Dunks
     
  7. Dec 12, 2012 #147

    seanmac

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    Does anyone know the best 'hotplug' to buy for the latest tesco value kettle? Is it C15? and is Maplin still the best place to get it?

    Cheers
     
  8. Dec 12, 2012 #148

    TRXnMe

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    Maplins appear to be cheapest, there code N08KC, the 10 Amp version for 2.69 including postage :)

    At least, that's I'm using until I work out a decent enclosure that allows me to keep the on off switch :)
     
  9. Jan 1, 2013 #149

    loady

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    ok, i have read all 8 pages of this thread..i have bought 4 of the more recent tesco kettles, with the extra moulded bit that we can just saw off, having read about the copper disc and it being ok to remove it (but dont break the rivet off), i found it easy to bend it up and then backwards and forwards a couple of times, this cleanly breaks it off down to the rivet, however, i noticed there is a spring loaded peg like sort of thing being retained by it and it pops out...is this ok ??i also noticed another one around the middle of the black circular plastic that faces the element...can this be removed for good measure ?
     
  10. Jan 1, 2013 #150

    tazuk

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    yes dont worry about that wot you mounting elements in plastic or metal ???? if plastic use one of these :thumb:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Professio ... 3379740404

    also rember when you use a plug that goes to the element do not use a pc 3 pin plug you will asking for trouble you need one of theses from rs or maplins 10amp version :thumb:

    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/iec-conne ... 435645|acc

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/hot-condition-e ... cket-42706

     
  11. Jan 5, 2013 #151

    fubofo

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    Gonna go out on a limb here and say that if the copper strip is connected to a pin, it may be the temperature strip the bends at certain temps and activates the off switch?
     
  12. Jan 5, 2013 #152

    Asalpaws

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    I had a new tescos element, I removed the tiny white pin and mine works fine, I also removed the straight copper strip from the back of the element disk. T
     
  13. Jan 5, 2013 #153

    loady

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    Bugger :(..i bought a 40 mm qmax cutter and have cut the hole, the reason i bought the 40 mm cutter is because i measured the ID of the hole left in the plastic kettle, it was 39.89mm on my digital calipers so i bought the 40mm....its got a bit of play in it though the seal fits perfectly it rotates freely and there is a bit of up/down side to side movement....will the poly washer as mentioned by above poster seal this up properly...not sure whether to cut the other hole now.
     
  14. Jan 5, 2013 #154

    loady

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    to add to the disaster above, i managed to get it in with a very slight drip, i plugged it in and BANG...everything went off....i have not cut any wires, all i done was hack saw off the switch part, the LED is still intact and wired, i only broke off the metal disc behind the housing....this is NOT going well at all !!
     
  15. Jan 5, 2013 #155

    bobsbeer

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    You say a very slight drip. Did this get into the wiring behind the element? Hence the bang.
     
  16. Jan 5, 2013 #156

    loady

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    must have done...., i have four of them, i took another and i plugged it in dry VERY briefly to see if it tripped out, (s**t they get hot quick), it didnt tip out, so i have put that one on but i can see it dripping as well so it might be that...the problem i got now is a 40mm hole, also the metal on this shiny is thinner than the plastic on the kettle..this is compounding the situation.

    EDIT: may have saved the situation, used a 1 1/2" rubber diaphargm washer from b&q, i now have it on a boil and will see if it holds under the temp...now the other hole i want to make 38mm, has anyone used a hole saw in shiny to do this ?..i dont want to buy another QMAX, mainly because of the delivery time, i can get hold of hole saws tomorrow..the problem i had with the qmax was getting pilot holes into the shiny...i have soem very expensive HSS drils but it took fekking ages for them to get a bite in it...i cant see a hole saw doing any better ??
     
  17. Jan 5, 2013 #157

    buffoon

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    how high should i drill the hole for the tap from the base of the fv?
     
  18. Jan 5, 2013 #158

    loady

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    You want the outlet to be as low to floor as possible inside, bare in mind that you need to have room to be able to turn the nut inside given that the side is curved from floor to side, put some masking tape on the outside at the bottom of the pot, offer the securing nut up to the tape and the make a cross in the centre of the nut and there is your drill point.

    Have a look at vossis guide HERE
     
  19. Jan 5, 2013 #159

    buffoon

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    thanks loady!
     
  20. Jan 6, 2013 #160

    TRXnMe

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    A silicone rubber baking mat does the same job, but you get loads of 'washers' out of one mat, Poundland sell them :)
     

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