How to use the Tesco Value kettle heating element

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Great tip, thanks.

I see there's lots of debate about two plugs in one socket. To set peoples minds at rest you can look at the following. This comes from my day job.

For any plug to meet the relevant British Standard (BS1363) it has to be able to draw 20Amps total load with 14A from one side, and 6 from the other. So, it is best not to draw from one 2 gang socket two kettle elements, although good quality sockets would probably withstand it without trouble.

There is no need to run these two from seperate ring mains, indeed from a safety point of view it's best to have a single circuit to isolate.

once again, great tips on the equipment side, thanks for sharing!

An RCD on the supply to these would provide additional protection. Modern houses, or ones that have been rewired, are likely to have an rcd in their consumer unit. Take a look and check if you don't know. If there is one it needs to be periodically switched off and on to exercise the mechanism ( A label adjacent to it should have been fitted to tell you about this). if one of these is fitted at the CU there is no additional protection to be had by putting another one by the brew bin.

Soldering the large terminals can lead to heat damage of the moulding into which the connection fits, this in turn could cause problems so apply as little heat as is needed to make the solder flow.
 
Cyclops said:
i used 38mm too :)

OK 38.1 mm to be precise. :?

I bought a 1 1/2" Q max from 'My tool shed' :whistle:

Just use to referring to 1 1/2" tube as 40mm in plumbing circles I guess.

:drunk:
 
Just wondering if this kind of kettle is still available?
Or a similar one?
Most kettles seem to be sealed element these days.
 
Just had a look, and it looks like Tesco are doing a VERY similar kettle for £5.99 Clicky - can't be certain this is the same one, but it is the same capacity and does have an exposed element :thumb:

I've updated the details on page 1 :grin:
 
Have pm'd you about it mate, but the only issue I've heard is to do with the walls of the steel pots being very thin, so some sort of shim needed to pad out the wall thickness to make the silicon seal from the kettle fit the 38mm hole in the pot.
 
The new tesco kettle as described in the last few posts is similar, and if anything easier to convert. I did it for my BIAB boiler this weekend. I bought two and only put one in when I realised I couldn't get enough power for two out to the garage, so I might do a photo series on the other. In brief the actual electrical switch is now integrated into the black plastic mounting, and is triggered by a tiny piece of plastic. If you remove the lever and this piece of plastic, your element is now always on. Plug an IEC C13 (kettle lead) onto the pins and you're sorted with no soldering required.
 
Is there a way of controlling the temperature with this type of boiler? What about using an emersion heater type element? Or a thermostat such as a hot water tank thermostat? such as:
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PID controller and SSR are the modern way to do it. There's threads on this approach.
 
oh she'll notice all right but i bet you don't notice the couple of items of clothing (or hand bags/shoes or some other item)that she claims she's always had lol
 
Genius work on the heating and valuable stuff on the electrical safety, but can I ask a bone question about 'drainage'.

I can't see a tap of any description on the pictures or an added filtration kit (copper pipe or steel braid). Did you have anything or will a bog standard plastic tap work?

Cheers
 
Nice!

Tool Station have taken a bit of a hit from me and I am waiting for delivery. :whistle: Not sure yet if I will use a copper drain for braid yet. Bought a bit of a job lot to build 2 MT's too. Will post a pic once it is here.

Thanks again. :drink:
 
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