Initial thoughts on BIAB in Klarstein Fullhorn

[moto748]

These two boilers sound like the sort of thing I would go for when my boiler bites the dust. Just a boiler, with some sort of temp control, and a tap at the bottom; that's all I want. I don't know what a bazooka is, but I don't like the sound of it, and doubt I need it!

I don't understand the issues with boiling over. You know the capacity of your boiler, just proportion your brew volumes to stay within the capacity, surely?

 

[RxAngus]

These two boilers sound like the sort of thing I would go for when my boiler bites the dust. Just a boiler, with some sort of temp control, and a tap at the bottom; that's all I want. I don't know what a bazooka is, but I don't like the sound of it, and doubt I need it!

I don't understand the issues with boiling over. You know the capacity of your boiler, just proportion your brew volumes to stay within the capacity, surely?

The bazooka is just a mesh tube that screws to the inside of the valve. Idea is to filter out hops which I found okay when using leaf but it clogs if using pellets.

The issue with boiling over for me is this: Suppose I want to end up with 23L in the FV and my boil duration results in 4L loss. I therefore need to put 27L in the boiler which is right at the max fill line. I find that once this boils, it foams over the top of the boiler ie (for me at least) I can't boil at max fill level. I can get round this easily enough as mentioned. Happy to hear how any Fullhorn users manage to boil 27L without issue - perhaps by killing the 900W element sooner than I am?

 

[RxAngus]

I ended up getting the 35L Digiboil kit as I couldn't get a response from Klarstein regarding delivery. I think the digiboil has a 5L bigger capacity, so hopefully any boiling issues when I do a large brew will not be an issue. I took it for a test spin last Friday and made a 13L brew. I was very impressed with the boiler, especially the ability to switch from 900W/1600W to 2400W. As you say, these are great for getting into AG brewing (especially as I can't use the kitchen hob!!).

Out of interest, what recipe did you use for your TT landlord? I have the GW recipe (or is it GH?) which I'm planning to do once I get some of the Yorkshire liquid yeast.
Cheers, john

I used the all-grain kit from Brew UK. Was about £16 IIRC. I had some problems but they were all related to it being my first all-grain brew - I will buy that kit again to check!

 

[Nottsbeer]

I used the all-grain kit from Brew UK. Was about £16 IIRC. I had some problems but they were all related to it being my first all-grain brew - I will buy that kit again to check!

Did you find the taste close to the original?

 

[Nottsbeer]

These two boilers sound like the sort of thing I would go for when my boiler bites the dust. Just a boiler, with some sort of temp control, and a tap at the bottom; that's all I want. I don't know what a bazooka is, but I don't like the sound of it, and doubt I need it!

I don't understand the issues with boiling over. You know the capacity of your boiler, just proportion your brew volumes to stay within the capacity, surely?

My old boiler died (well the thermostat did!), Thus my upgrade. I did find that being able to mash in the new boiler was great, one less piece of kit in my very small brewing shed (plus one thing less to clean

 

[RxAngus]

Did you find the taste close to the original?

Reasonably so - I compared it side by side.

I didn't dunk sparge what with it being my first BIAB so final product was a bit thin. I had also lost more volume than expected during the boil and had topped up with water which just compounded things.

I'd say my final product was not a fair reflection on the kit hence why I will brew it again.

 

[moto748]

The bazooka is just a mesh tube that screws to the inside of the valve. Idea is to filter out hops which I found okay when using leaf but it clogs if using pellets.

The issue with boiling over for me is this: Suppose I want to end up with 23L in the FV and my boil duration results in 4L loss. I therefore need to put 27L in the boiler which is right at the max fill line. I find that once this boils, it foams over the top of the boiler ie (for me at least) I can't boil at max fill level. I can get round this easily enough as mentioned. Happy to hear how any Fullhorn users manage to boil 27L without issue - perhaps by killing the 900W element sooner than I am?

Thanks, I get it now on the bazooka. Just seems easier to me to bung your hops in a bag!

On the boiling over, I suppose, not unreasonably, the manufacturers put the max fill level pretty near the top, which is fine if all you want is to heat up some water to a given temp, say for sparging. But I can see how a rolling hop boil would be a different story. If it was me, I think I'd just reduce the batch size a tad.

 

[moto748]

My old boiler died (well the thermostat did!), Thus my upgrade. I did find that being able to mash in the new boiler was great,

Why couldn't you mash in your old boiler?

 

[Nottsbeer]

Why couldn't you mash in your old boiler?

With the thermostat not working it was either full belt or off. I think having the element not covered also left me with the danger of burning my bag. I made a power regulator (like foxbats) and it mostly worked ok for one brew, though I mashed in an insulated tub (with lots of blankets wrapped around). The new setup is easier and less hassle. I just set the controller and happily left it for an hour (with an occasional stir). The old boiler was like a Peco and quite old. I used it for extract brewing years ago with some very nice results.

Regarding the bazooka. I decided to get a hop spider. I've used small muslin bags in the past, found a spider easier to use and clean at the end. It also sat nicely in the boiler and no issues with pellet sediment escaping ().

 

[Nottsbeer]

Reasonably so - I compared it side by side.

I didn't dunk sparge what with it being my first BIAB so final product was a bit thin. I had also lost more volume than expected during the boil and had topped up with water which just compounded things.

I'd say my final product was not a fair reflection on the kit hence why I will brew it again.

Hope your next attempt goes well

 

[Rodcx500z]

The issue with boiling over for me is this: Suppose I want to end up with 23L in the FV and my boil duration results in 4L loss. I therefore need to put 27L in the boiler which is right at the max fill line. I find that once this boils, it foams over the top of the boiler ie (for me at least) I can't boil at max fill level. I can get round this easily enough as mentioned. Happy to hear how any Fullhorn users manage to boil 27L without issue - perhaps by killing the 900W element sooner than I am?

Hi Angus the boil off rate on my fullhorn is 3L at 1600w which is tight on a 23L brew, now i am kegging i have gone down to 21L brews which is more manageable, also i use the dunk sparge method so i can leave some wort in the sparge bucket and add it say 15 minutes into the boil, i did loads of 23L brews like this hope this helps you

 

[RxAngus]

Hi Angus the boil off rate on my fullhorn is 3L at 1600w which is tight on a 23L brew, now i am kegging i have gone down to 21L brews which is more manageable, also i use the dunk sparge method so i can leave some wort in the sparge bucket and add it say 15 minutes into the boil, i did loads of 23L brews like this hope this helps you

Great thanks!

I've stopped worrying if I don't get the full 23L into the FV! The main reason I have had a problem is because that is the volume a lot of all-grain kits aim for and so the pre-boil volume is a little too much for safety! I could of course just scale things down a bit but that's more to work out. Instead I'm happy just to drain off some wort when reaching the boil. I find I can add it back pretty much immediately so it's not really been a major problem. I might try your idea of keeping wort back in the sparge bucket for a few mins which means I can boil with no worries.

 

[Rodcx500z]

Angus search online for brewmate it's free and easy to use you can make your own recipes with it

 

[moto748]

 

[moto748]

I just use a crude spreadsheet like this. Once you'd done one, it's easy to Save As. Say I've cribbed the recipe on the left, which is for a 20 litre batch. I input 11 into the other cell on the right, and ker-ching, the weights all pop out. And if I want a 12 or 15 litre batch, same thing.

 

[RxAngus]

I just use a crude spreadsheet like this. Once you'd done one, it's easy to Save As. Say I've cribbed the recipe on the left, which is for a 20 litre batch. I input 11 into the other cell on the right, and ker-ching, the weights all pop out. And if I want a 12 or 15 litre batch, same thing.

That looks handy! Main issue I've had is that all-grain kits often assume 23L so quantities supplied reflect this. That can lead to my boil issues.

This would be very handy for my own recipes though where I can choose the FV volume and work back from there.