It is better than normal but why?

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ericmark

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Llanfair Caereinion, Mid Wales.
I am not really a good brewer always use kits and in the main either Geordie or Youngs Scottish brews. The Youngs version asks for 1.5 kg sugar and the Geordie 1 kg of sugar but I normally use 1.5 kg in both.

I use an old fridge/freezer in the attached garage to brew in with thermostat control of temperature sensor pressed against side of fermentor under a sponge so measuring brew not the free air.

At around 10 days I transfer to clean fermentor and after around another 10 days I bottle in pop bottles which then go in the freezer compartment for 10 days both compartments held at around the 19 to 20 degrees C. Then into shed until required for drinking.

I say this to show it is a bit like a production line very little alters brew to brew so I expect to get nearly the same results in every brew.

However Christmas came and it was due to be bottled on Christmas day which did not happen and in new year I started medication which required no alcohol so I forgot about the brew and it just sat there at 20 degs until the 7th March when I thought I should bottle never bothered transferring to remove sediment. Last bottle had loads of sediment in it so put that one to one side, and three days latter tried it. It was no near as sharp as normal it had not got the normal slightly bitter after taste I know is due to over doing the sugar.

So question is why, or more to the point what do I need to do for it to happen again. Clearly leaving in fermentor for 3 months instead of 3 weeks would have rather a serious impact on my stock levels, but if an extra week can do it then that's not so bad, is it due to not transferring after 10 days?

Last year I stopped brewing in the summer, also stopped the year before, but last year the result was running out of stock which had over summered in the shed, and it would seem shed is not warm enough in Winter for the brew to condition, which is why I started using the freezer compartment to condition beer before storing.

I have been conditioning at 20 degs not really sure if that's the right temperature? With the sensor on the fermenter and insulated I have noted my old data is flawed. For first couple of years I relied on the stick on temperature stick and found at 16 degs it stopped, at 18 degs fermented OK to start with but tended to slow up near end, at 20 degs worked A1, at 24 degs nasty after taste.

However strip still on fermentor and in the fridge with sensor pressed hard to fermentor under a sponge to insulate I found the stick on strip gives an average between brew temperature and air temperature so once getting good readings I found 18 degs is nearly stalled 19 degs works well from start to finish, 20 degs speeds it up a bit, and it has never hit 24 degs so not a clue what would happen. It was quite a surprise started again in Sept and we had a hot spell, but in spite of garage at 26 degs beer in fridge stayed at 20 degs fridge part never used. Clearly average day and night was not exceeding 20 degs and in a fridge change is very slow. So I can near enough guarantee my brew was at 20 degs all its life.
 
I have absolutely no idea why that brew was better, but you sound like a very good brewer to me with all that attention to fermentation and conditioning.

Leaving beer on the yeast sediment for ages has ruined beer for me, but some how it's worked in your favour. It may not happen again, but you could try leaving the beer in primary for 3 or 4 weeks. Perhaps the extra time in the FV allowed the yeast to work on something in the beer that creates the off taste you don't like.
 
I at long last have found my energy meter, so put to measure energy used to both heat brew from 12 to 19 degrees and maintain it at 19 degrees and now realise my underfloor heating tile is a bit on the large side at 18W. It now seems to raise temperature when first mixed 10W is ample and to maintain 5W is ample and that is in the Winter. In the summer it will be a lot less. So next project is to build a soldering iron saver type device so I can switch a 40W bulb in and out of circuit to reduce the heat to something like 2.5W.
My theory is the less the heater is switched off the better as there will be a constant environment for my pet yeast to live in. It should also prevent over shoot in the summer, swapping 40 to 100 watt bulb will allow some adjustment in power to the heater.
 

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