Klarstein 70 litre Brauheld Pro Mash Kettle (It's a wee bit big)

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DocAnna

Queen's Knot Brewing
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Rather than post on my brewday thread, I thought it might be useful/interesting/helpful to have a separate thread to post my experiences with the new big beastie of an all in one system that has now arrived. I am also going to need to set up my own Brewfather equipment profile for this since I can't find one anywhere on the internet, so I'll record my experience with that too.
Mine is second hand, but this is a link to the current specification Brauheld Pro Mash Kettle

First impressions are he's quite stout and solid looking, very little plastic overall and presents as suitably robust, unlike the smaller versions, the pump is contained under boiler, easily accessed through four machine bolts with washers and looks like would be fairly straightforward to replace. It has a sight glass that the previous owner has marked with pen but no numbers. The control unit only comes on once the power switch is clicked on so it can be left switched on at the mains without drawing power unlike the brewzilla.
Picture 2 shows the ball valve drain which does sit fairly low in the kettle, however picture 3 shows the pump drain which is mounted on a right angle post to join to the mesh filter, this means there's quite a bit of fluid the pump can't reach below it and limits the pump as an option for full drainage as it is at present.

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It comes with interchangeable recirculation arm and whirl pool arms (picture 4 and 5) which even when tightened can rotate without twisting the upright pipe, which is better than the camlock solution on the brewzilla. Picture 6 shows the mash pipe in place which has a fixed mesh grid base and a two part central drain, the screw like bolt is to block it while loading with grain, it doesn't screw at all or have a thread, just lifts in and out. The mash pipe sits further away from the wall of the boiler than I'm used to, and has two positions for lifting it out, ie two levels for the sparge.

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It is second hand and the wires for the controller are a little exposed and I'd like to repair with a bit of insulating tape, and the cable is a two pin European plug, which I'm not happy about using at high current. Having taken the bottom off to check, it is definitely a 3 core earthed cable and is earthed inside, so I'm going to cut the plug off and fit a UK plug. Inside the base, the cable ends are joined at crimp points with heat shrunk plastic covers, which limits my options for fitting an entirely new cable as this one is really short.
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I'm going to have to work out the proper equipment profile for this which will be the next task, oh and find something to put it on that's not too tall or short, since at the moment the cable can't reach my plug when it's on the floor, and the drainage tap would be a bit meaningless at that level too.

Anna
 
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That plug is earthed btw.
Yes but the European plug only has 2 prongs, and while I might be able to find some sort of earth prong to fit between the adapter and it, it would still be an adapter which at that wattage makes me nervous.
Will your electrical supply and wiring handle the power requirements?
Theoretically yes, the socket is rated at 20A, and the garage sockets are on a separate 32A circuit, however, I was planning on keeping the wattage dialed down to no more than 3KW if I can. Longer term, I'm going to ask our friendly electrician to run a dedicated ring to a 32A industrial IP44 surface mount socket, that can be also used for car charging if we eventually get an electric car. That's my thinking at the moment anyway.
 
I’m not an electrician but I question the use of a 13 amp square pin plug with a device rated at 10-20 amps. If it were me and you have a 20 amp outlet I’d hardwire it in to a DP switched 20 amp outlet, disconnecting at the device socket when not in use.
Looks a nice bit of kit 👍🏻
 
Yes but the European plug only has 2 prongs, and while I might be able to find some sort of earth prong to fit between the adapter and it, it would still be an adapter which at that wattage makes me nervous.

Theoretically yes, the socket is rated at 20A, and the garage sockets are on a separate 32A circuit, however, I was planning on keeping the wattage dialed down to no more than 3KW if I can. Longer term, I'm going to ask our friendly electrician to run a dedicated ring to a 32A industrial IP44 surface mount socket, that can be also used for car charging if we eventually get an electric car. That's my thinking at the moment anyway.

I meant the European plug is earthed(the metal bit between the prongs), but i would cut it without thinking, despite heavy duty earthed adapters exist.
 
I’m not an electrician but I question the use of a 13 amp square pin plug with a device rated at 10-20 amps. If it were me and you have a 20 amp outlet I’d hardwire it in to a DP switched 20 amp outlet, disconnecting at the device socket when not in use.
Looks a nice bit of kit 👍🏻
A 13a plug top will easily handle 20a constant power as it takes approx 21.6a before it will melt or “blow” however constant use will overheat the pin and possibly the socket terminal (live) but not if used only for an hour boil etc so it will all be fine.
However as docanna has said the lead is short it would be dangerous to use an extension lead with it. It’s short for a reason.
 
I’m not an electrician but I question the use of a 13 amp square pin plug with a device rated at 10-20 amps. If it were me and you have a 20 amp outlet I’d hardwire it in to a DP switched 20 amp outlet, disconnecting at the device socket when not in use.
Looks a nice bit of kit 👍🏻
That's why I'm only going to dial in no more than 3Kw - the power can be controlled in watts rather than cycling on and off like the Brewzilla. The long term is to have a high current socket like this
https://www.toolstation.com/industr...8KOfbJ0LoB9OnyIOqRxoCZWYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
@DocAnna i am an electrician and from what I see the boiler is a 3300w so it’s the same as my own one with more bells and whistles and I comfortably use mine on a plug top at full power.
3300 works out at 13.75a
3300w divided by 240v = 13.75a
Remember this unit was built in Europe and has a European kite mark for safety so perfectly safe to use.
A dedicates supply is great but really not necessary as I would think you like the ladies in my house have hairdryers and straighteners in the house with the same wattage and feel quite safe using them
 
It’s an educated reassurance though borne of 4 years at college and 30+ years on the job 😜
Thanks for that. As a retired Technical Director of a medical devices company that produced electro-mechanical products used in operation rooms around the world, heading up a team of 30 degree qualified engineers and sitting on a couple of European Safety Standards committees for medical devices, and witnessing and having to put right many a cock up made by my team of “qualified” engineers, I’m not reassured and nor should you be. There’s a +7 amp safety headspace on a 13 amp plug for a reason, and it’s not so that it can be used to supply a 20 amp device.
P1ss1ng competition over. Let’s stay friends @Donegal john acheers.
 
Thanks for that. As a retired Technical Director of a medical devices company that produced electro-mechanical products used in operation rooms around the world, heading up a team of 30 degree qualified engineers and sitting on a couple of European Safety Standards committees for medical devices, and witnessing and having to put right many a cock up made by my team of “qualified” engineers, I’m not reassured and nor should you be. There’s a +7 amp safety headspace on a 13 amp plug for a reason, and it’s not so that it can be used to supply a 20 amp device.
P1ss1ng competition over. Let’s stay friends @Donegal john acheers.
Ok you wear a suit I wear work trousers of course you win. 👍
 
Hey John, I started off wearing work trousers. Let’s call it a draw acheers.
Ah here I don’t get upset about things like that but just one point if I may. It’s not supplying 20amps it’s supplying max demand of 13.7amps so really no need for all the panicking. And as I use my one and have done for nearly a year and a half now once it’s at a rolling boil one of the elements can be switched off.
But let’s not split hairs over mathematics
😇
 
I'll write up today's observations and calibration exercise with Klars later (That's definitely what he's called now) but I'd appreciate a bit of help with screw threads- a bit out of my comfort zone and expertise!

I would like to connect my chiller to the top of the pump outflow which has this size of bore, and has a fairly custom looking attachment for the sparge arm which allows it to move while attached. I need to attach it to the 12 mm ID silicone hose attached to my chiller. It looks like it might be 16.5mm which I'm confused by being on looking up 3/8 BSP -but 3/8" is 9.5 mm?

EDIT - helps if I include the photo!
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