- Oct 17, 2018
- Reaction score
Thanks for the tip - notedYou seriously need to switch out the PVC for platinum cured silicone. PVC with hot liquids is a big no no. It's a thermoplastic, so over time will begin to degrade and break down. PVC is fine cold side, but hot side you need to be using silicone.
That’s what I do with mine. It reduces the kicking of the heater significantly. I used bubble wrap covered on both sides with aluminium foil (used for cooking etc.) and wrapped it round. Also put a thick towel over the lid. It isn’t perfect but the beer stillHi,
I have this set up. My fixes (I haven't really fixed it at all);
Wrap well in towels or insulated camping mats - they have no insulation as far as I can tell and just a thin double skinned wall. Insulation will keep the temp stable and stop it needing to kick in so often.
Put a warm lid on the top (more towels?) to stop heat loss there
Recirculating with a jug helps keep things stable - I do this 2 or max 3 times during the mash
Not worrying too much. Most of the beer I've brewed in it tastes fine
This is very similar to how I've been using mine. The silicone gets very soft, I've had problems with kinking on bends though I'm trying to do a tighter loop than you I think. I've ordered some 16mm ID reinforced tubing to see I can sqeeze that round the outside to reinforce it. Ultimately bent SS tube would be better.In fact this was the only very minor issue - the lid started to squish the tube where it goes into the kettle.
Nowhere near enough to stop the flow and I plan to drill out the breather hole in the lid so I can fit the pipe through. Once I've done that I'll trim the pipe to length
Funny you mention that, my PC is watercooled but with chromed copper tubes and elbow fittings.In PC water cooling you can buy a plastic helix that wraps around the outside of the hose to allow for tighter bends without kinking, no idea if it would work with the larger diameter silicone hose though, I used stainless steel 90 degree elbows and fittings for tight bends, along with ptfe tape on threads.
Right you are! Conpletely didnt think to look at the tap. I iamgine it should be alright up to 70ish though. If not, get ready for a photo of wort spraying all over the shopLooking forward to seeing this up and running. Those valves are only rated up to 60C though...
They won't, see my post about PVC been a thermoplastic, only good up to 60 degrees C, above that it degrades and leeches.Right you are! Conpletely didnt think to look at the tap. I iamgine it should be alright up to 70ish though. If not, get ready for a photo of wort spraying all over the shop
Yeah, after reading your comments to me I was thinking the same thing.They won't, see my post about PVC been a thermoplastic, only good up to 60 degrees C, above that it degrades and leeches.
You actually got me to look a little closer at the plastic it is made from, turns out it doesn't look too good.They won't, see my post about PVC been a thermoplastic, only good up to 60 degrees C, above that it degrades and leeches.
Correct - mine arrived the other day. They are small but for the pipe I plan to use (12mm OD) I think they'll be ok, if I actually need them but I'm not yet convinced they're necessary at all.Oh, re airline clamps, I don't know if you've seen them, but they're pretty diddy.
I'm confused by this. You're correct that a narrower diameter hose will have a greater pressure drop (or back pressure) than a fatter one.You want fat hoses for pumps to keep back pressure down.