Klarstein Mash Kettle Help Needed

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Hi All,

I recently decided to get into all grain brewing after spending most of last year brewing with extract kits and ended up buying a Klarstein Mash Kettle. Not exactly sure which model as it was second hand, no instructions and the product label doesn’t indicate the model.
Anyway, the closest i can compare it to is the “Fullhorn” as listed on the Klarstein website. Mine is almost identical axcept they seem to have made some upgrades to the thermostatic controller which is now digital, mine is the older analogue model.

As a mash kettle i have no issues at all, but the problem i have is when i come to the boil i can’t hold the temperature stable to maintain a rolling boil. The thermostat clicks off when it reaches a boil and trying to adjust it results in a vigourous boil and i’m burning off 7 to 8 ltrs which is way too high.

My question is: Is it possible to do a Heath Robinson upgrade and replace or bypass the analogue controller with a digital unit?

Below is a photo of the internals. The orangey coloured unit is the temperature controller/thermostat, to the left is the timer and to the right is the on/off switch.

Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I think the exact model is the “Beerfest”

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It might help to take some pictures of the wiring from different angles, it isn’t easy to see how it’s all configured from one angle because wires/connections are obscured.

Do you still want to be able to use the timer?

Do you still want the switch to work?

Do you still want the lights to come on? I see two lights are these to show power is on and show when the element is on?
 
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It might help to take some pictures of the wiring from different angles, it isn’t easy to see how it’s all configured from one angle because wires/connections are obscured.

Do you still want to be able to use the timer?

Do you still want the switch to work?

Do you still want the lights to come on? I see two lights are these to show power is on and show when the element is on?
Thanks for your quick reply mate.

As for the timer? It’s handy but not essential as when i’m brewing i usually stand over it anyway and can easily set a timer on my phone.

Switch? Unless it can be replaced or bypassed with something suitable? Or are you suggesting that it comes on as soon as plugged in? Or use an alternative switching supply?

I’m not fussed about the lights to be honest, handy but not essential.

I have to nip out now, but will supply further photo’s with as much detail as possible later on today.
 
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Hi i have a fullhorn and as you say it has a digital display, i don't use it now i up graded to a brewzilla as i remember i had to set boil temp at 102c to get a boil, has yours got 2 or 1 element the fullhorn has 2 1600w and 500w, once up to boil i knocked the 500w off and it would keep a good rolling boil, the loss over a 1 hour boil was 3.5L hope this helps you
 
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Hi i have a fullhorn and as you say it has a digital display, i don't use it now i up graded to a brewzilla as i remember i had to set boil temp at 102c to get a boil, has yours got 2 or 1 element the fullhorn has 2 1600w and 500w, once up to boil i knocked the 500w off and it would keep a good rolling boil, the loss over a 1 hour boil was 3.5L hope this helps you
Mine has 2 elements 1 @ 900w & 1 @ 1800w but without the instructions i’m not sure how to switch between them. The switch says on and off ( i think)

And this issue i have is exactly what you have described, i can’t hold the boil at 102 degrees, i set it to 100 (ish) and it doesn’t boil, go any higher to engage the thermostat and it boils but rapidly and not what i want which is a nioce steady rolling boil.
 
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It might help to take some pictures of the wiring from different angles, it isn’t easy to see how it’s all configured from one angle because wires/connections are obscured.

Do you still want to be able to use the timer?

Do you still want the switch to work?

Do you still want the lights to come on? I see two lights are these to show power is on and show when the element is on?
Hi again mate, see poorly taken photo’s below, you may be able to fathom out the wiring from them?

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Thinking logically i would say the temp controller regulates the power to the elements and is faulty, but i am no sparky and am more than likely wrong, there are a few sparkys on here who may be able to point you in the right direction, sorry i can't help you but i hope you get it fixed soon
 
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I think I can make sense of all this but I can’t see the wires and the routing of the wires clearly enough to be sure so I’m going to suggest you leave the unit just as it is and separately use an Inkbird to control it the same way I control my Cygnet.

Having filled your Klarstein with water, plug your Klarstein into the Inkbird heater socket. Set the temperature you want on the Inkbird. Place the temperature probe from the Inkbird into your Klarstein. Switch the Klarstein on, turn the thermostat to max (temp will be controlled by the Inkbird switching the Klarstein on and off) and use the timer as you normally would.

From what I can see, the timer is mechanical so will be unaffected by the power being switched on/off by the Inkbird.
 
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I think I can make sense of all this but I can’t see the wires and the routing of the wires clearly enough to be sure so I’m going to suggest you leave the unit just as it is and separately use an Inkbird to control it the same way I control my Cygnet.

Having filled your Klarstein with water, plug your Klarstein into the Inkbird heater socket. Set the temperature you want on the Inkbird. Place the temperature probe from the Inkbird into your Klarstein. Switch the Klarstein on, turn the thermostat to max (temp will be controlled by the Inkbird switching the Klarstein on and off) and use the timer as you normally would.

From what I can see, the timer is mechanical so will be unaffected by the power being switched on/off by the Inkbird.
Understood mate and thanks, sounds like a plan.

I have seen other Temp Controllers which ion theory will do the same job, however i reckon the Inkbird is the tried and trusted model in the world of brewing so will go with that. The other one i saw was STC1000 if memory serves me well.

So basically i’d be bypassing all the functionality of the analogue unit and let the Inkbird take care of the temperatures? Does it also have a timer or would i have to do that manually?
 
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The Inkbird will switch the whole unit off and on to maintain temperature - this is why you set the thermostat to max.

The Inkbird has no timer but because the Klarstein is still a complete unit and the timer is mechanical the timer on your Klarstein should work normally.

The STC-1000 is a good little unit, I have 3 controlling my brewshed. The trouble with using it is that there is nowhere to mount it on your Klarstein unless you have the necessary skills and tools. The temperature probe will also have to be mounted somewhere and I’m unsure how reliable it would be if fixed to the base, it really needs to be in the boiler with the mash or the wort.
 
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The Inkbird will switch the whole unit off and on to maintain temperature - this is why you set the thermostat to max.

Because the Klarstein is still a complete unit and the timer is mechanical the timer should work normally.

The STC-1000 is a good little unit, I have 3 controlling my brewshed. The trouble with using it is that there is nowhere to mount it on your Klarstein unless you have the necessary skills and tools. The temperature probe will also have to be mounted somewhere and I’m unsure how reliable it would be if fixed to the base, it really needs to be in the boiler with the mash or the wort.
I’m quite handy to be honest and can knock up most stuff if i put my mind to it so making a housing wouldn’t be an issue at all. I’ll do a comparison to see what comes out cheapest but to be honest i’d rather go for something plug and play sort of thing. To be honest, i haven’t even looked at prices yet, just solutions.
 
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I’m quite handy to be honest and can knock up most stuff if i put my mind to it so making a housing wouldn’t be an issue at all. I’ll do a comparison to see what comes out cheapest but to be honest i’d rather go for something plug and play sort of thing. To be honest, i haven’t even looked at prices yet, just solutions.
I think the Inkbird is about £20 and the STC is £10 although prices may have gone up recently.
 
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The thermostat is basically a switch and so is the STC-1000 so you can take the wires that go to the thermostat and connect these instead to the STC. You can try fixing the probe to the base and see if it does the job I guess.
 
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The thermostat is basically a switch and so is the STC-1000 so you can take the wires that go to the thermostat and connect these instead to the STC. You can try fixing the probe to the base and see if it does the job I guess.
I’ve just been looking at them and doing some research, however both the Inkbird ITC-308 and the STC-1000 only go up to 99 degrees so probably not suited for my needs which is the boil and water boils at 100 so guessing the wort will be the same or similar range.
Saying that, i have found what look like similar unit that are non-Inkbirds but actually go up to 120 degrees.
 
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I’ve just been looking at them and doing some research, however both the Inkbird ITC-308 and the STC-1000 only go up to 99 degrees so probably not suited for my needs which is the boil and water boils at 100 so guessing the wort will be the same or similar range.
Saying that, i have found what look like similar unit that are non-Inkbirds but actually go up to 120 degrees.
The 308 goes to 120 I believe.
(I’m not pushing Inkbird! 😉)

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