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This is why Im a bit reluctant to use Kviek. ! dont have temp control and my brewing area never gets above 25C. I like to "brew simple" so would prefer not to have to faff about by adding nutrient.
It won't be a problem really. If you pitch the yeast at 40degrees the yeast will keep the wort hot from all the activity and finish before it gets cold. I use a hoodie on the fermenter. Just try it. It's awesome. I've only used Kveik for my last 15-20 beers. Don't think I'll ever use an other yeast. If you want esters keep it warm if you want clean beer go lower. The nutrients isn't a must but there has been reports of stalling when not used. That said, the times I've forgotten or simply run out there hasn't been a problem. Voss is a really forgiving yeast.

I made this one not long ago. A ekuanot / mandarina Bavaria pale ale from extract . It was gorgeous. Sooo tasty. I'll attach recipe.
 

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It won't be a problem really. If you pitch the yeast at 40degrees the yeast will keep the wort hot from all the activity and finish before it gets cold. I use a hoodie on the fermenter. Just try it. It's awesome. I've only used Kveik for my last 15-20 beers. Don't think I'll ever use an other yeast. If you want esters keep it warm if you want clean beer go lower. The nutrients isn't a must but there has been reports of stalling when not used. That said, the times I've forgotten or simply run out there hasn't been a problem. Voss is a really forgiving yeast.

I made this one not long ago. A ekuanot / mandarina Bavaria pale ale from extract . It was gorgeous. Sooo tasty. I'll attach recipe.

I may have to give it a go. I've thought about pitching it at its upper temp before as it ferments so fast
 
Nutrient doesn't need to be much more complicated than throwing some old yeast in at flameout - the advantage of cannibalism is that all the nutrients are present in the right proportions.
 
Nutrient doesn't need to be much more complicated than throwing some old yeast in at flameout - the advantage of cannibalism is that all the nutrients are present in the right proportions.

So I could make a bigger starter and sacrifice some of the yeasties to their brethren at flame out. The I pitch the rest after no chill? If so how much for a 10L brew?
 
Going to brew this soon.
RIS v8

10l batch
OG 1125
FG 1020
ABV 13,75%
IBU 65
SRM 50
Efficiency 75%

3kg pilsner malt
1.2kg brown sugar
500g roast barley
300g flaked barley
200g crystal medium
200g extra dark crystal

mash at 61/62c and add the sugar 10m from the end.
FWH addition to 65 IBU probably challenger
ferment hot 35c with Voss or Tommogarden, possibly both for a week then rack into dj's with flavourings and oak for a few months

I will probably end up doing a reiterated mash although they are easy to screw up so i might mash the roast and crystal separately. This time i am definitely not adding amylase.

Edit. I don't have oxygen so i no chill and shake the living daylights out of the cube until it almost turns to foam.
 
OG 1125

ABV 13,75%

Efficiency 75%

1.2kg brown sugar

ferment hot 35c with Voss or Tommogarden

Edit. I don't have oxygen so i no chill and shake the living daylights out of the cube until it almost turns to foam.

How confident are you on hitting that efficiency at that OG, what do you get normally?

You might be better off adding the sugar during fermentation rather than before, reduce the osmotic effect on the poor yeasties.

You might want to watch the ABV tolerance, from memory Voss is only around 11-12%, Hornindal is rather better, dunno about ?Tomasgård?

Not having oxgen is a good argument for using a commercial dried one which are prepared in a way that maximises sterols which is what you need oxygen to make.
 
So I could make a bigger starter and sacrifice some of the yeasties to their brethren at flame out. The I pitch the rest after no chill? If so how much for a 10L brew?

It's not something I'm terribly scientific about, a spoonful or two? Normally you'd be using yeast left over from the previous brew that have extracted nutrients from the grain you used before, it gets a bit circular if you're making a starter specially but I guess a third to a half of what you're pitching "for real"?
 
How confident are you on hitting that efficiency at that OG, what do you get normally?

You might be better off adding the sugar during fermentation rather than before, reduce the osmotic effect on the poor yeasties.

You might want to watch the ABV tolerance, from memory Voss is only around 11-12%, Hornindal is rather better, dunno about ?Tomasgård?

Not having oxgen is a good argument for using a commercial dried one which are prepared in a way that maximises sterols which is what you need oxygen to make.

Good idea about adding sugar during fermentation. Only done that with wine before. Question is should i use brown sugar or stick with golden syrup? Sugar would be a lot easier to deal with. Perhaps added after 24 hours.
If i do a reiterated mash i should hit 75% otherwise i would expect low 60's. My last got to 15.5% but i used amylase and it finished way too low. Previous to that i got 12.6% with Voss. @strange-steve got up to 16%. with the same yeast. I do have Hornindal but i fancied trying Saure as i have not used it yet.
Also i should of added i have not been pitching at kveik temps. The last ones were around 10c then heated up to 35c, did not seem to affect anything.
 
Fair enough, I don't normally go up to that kind of level, I suspect there may be some variation between different sources.

For something like a IRS where a bit of character is welcome, I'd definitely go for the sugar rather than syrup, maybe even go up to something like soft brown rather than demerara? Maybe do it in two additions a day apart - the gentler the better?
 
You might be better off adding the sugar during fermentation rather than before, reduce the osmotic effect on the poor yeasties.

What is the osmotic effect you speak of? I ofte add golden syrup to my brews. Im thinking of doing a cream ale soon but with table sugar not flaked maize. I normally add sugars at 10min in the boil. Is it better add to the FV?
 
I just bought some Skare and Ebbegarden. Really excited about the latter as it contains lactobacillus and can add a powerful tropical fruit aroma if used right. I've not had the best of luck with kveik so far so would be good to run through a couple of recipes I have planned and processes for getting the most out of the yeast. Any advice will be much appreciated on whether this is the right process or not. I'm getting both yeasts from this ebay shop who give enough dried yeast for 1x23 litre brew. I'll be brewing to 25 litres, I don't suppose that extra 2 litres will make a huge difference? I will probably brew each one on a Grainfather with ~85% efficiency.

Ebbegarden brew. I want to get as many characteristics from the yeast as possible.

Ingredients:
5kg Europils malt
Ebbegarden flakes

Process:
Will mash and sparge as normal. After sparge, collect 500ml of wort and cool to 28°c and pitch the yeast to make a starter. After 1 hour boil will cool the wort to 28°c and pitch the starter. Rise temp to ~32°c for the entire fermentation.

Skare brew. I'm going for a cali common type beer.

4kg Europils
500g Vienna
500g caramalt
15g Bravo @60 min
15g H. Mittelfruh @10 min
Skare flakes

similar to above, will mash and sparge as usual, collect 500ml of wort and cool to 32°c and pitch the yeast to make a starter. After 1 hour boil will cool the wort to 32°c and pitch the starter. Keep at ~32°c for the entire fermentation.

Some questions which came up whilst writing the above:
  • Does it matter that I can't keep the starters at a constant temp?
  • With Ebbegarden, do I need to treat this like a traditional sour and let the lactobacillus ferment for several months?
Thanks in advance!
 
I'd like to buy some "farmhouse original" kveik yeasts. That is specifically not isolated strains, but rather the whole lovely mix of whatever is used in those farmhouses in Norway (or indeed elsewhere, which aren't really always kveiks, so let's just call them landrace yeasts).

I see there are some sellers on eBay, but I have a "thing" against using Paypal, so would as far as possible like to avoid that route.

A professional outfit like Escarpment Labs in Canada reputedly sells the real thing, but I can't seem to find anywhere in Europe to buy their yeasts.

Does anyone have some recommendations?
 
I'd like to buy some "farmhouse original" kveik yeasts. That is specifically not isolated strains, but rather the whole lovely mix of whatever is used in those farmhouses in Norway (or indeed elsewhere, which aren't really always kveiks, so let's just call them landrace yeasts).

I see there are some sellers on eBay, but I have a "thing" against using Paypal, so would as far as possible like to avoid that route.

A professional outfit like Escarpment Labs in Canada reputedly sells the real thing, but I can't seem to find anywhere in Europe to buy their yeasts.

Does anyone have some recommendations?
For the real Kveik I've heard you can use Facebook. There are multiple pages just for Kveik. I got it from the Norwegian homebrew forum Norbrygg.no. U could sign up there and ask. They are really helpful.
 
I just bought some Skare and Ebbegarden. Really excited about the latter as it contains lactobacillus and can add a powerful tropical fruit aroma if used right.
That's interesting, I've got a packet of Ebbergarden from them that I bought last year, that states no bacteria. Not fair, I want the bacteria now.
 
I just bought some Skare and Ebbegarden. Really excited about the latter as it contains lactobacillus and can add a powerful tropical fruit aroma if used right. I've not had the best of luck with kveik so far so would be good to run through a couple of recipes I have planned and processes for getting the most out of the yeast. Any advice will be much appreciated on whether this is the right process or not. I'm getting both yeasts from this ebay shop who give enough dried yeast for 1x23 litre brew. I'll be brewing to 25 litres, I don't suppose that extra 2 litres will make a huge difference? I will probably brew each one on a Grainfather with ~85% efficiency.

Ebbegarden brew. I want to get as many characteristics from the yeast as possible.

Ingredients:
5kg Europils malt
Ebbegarden flakes

Process:
Will mash and sparge as normal. After sparge, collect 500ml of wort and cool to 28°c and pitch the yeast to make a starter. After 1 hour boil will cool the wort to 28°c and pitch the starter. Rise temp to ~32°c for the entire fermentation.

Skare brew. I'm going for a cali common type beer.

4kg Europils
500g Vienna
500g caramalt
15g Bravo @60 min
15g H. Mittelfruh @10 min
Skare flakes

similar to above, will mash and sparge as usual, collect 500ml of wort and cool to 32°c and pitch the yeast to make a starter. After 1 hour boil will cool the wort to 32°c and pitch the starter. Keep at ~32°c for the entire fermentation.

Some questions which came up whilst writing the above:
  • Does it matter that I can't keep the starters at a constant temp?
  • With Ebbegarden, do I need to treat this like a traditional sour and let the lactobacillus ferment for several months?
Thanks in advance!
Hi. Sounds like a couple of good beers :)
I don't know much about the sour but with the starter it's what I do. Just take some wort and pitch the Kveik there while I'm waiting for the boil and leave it on the counter. By the time you're going to pich it you'll see the Kveik is working.

On another note. If you're going to dryhop, I always like to do it after most of the ferment is over because of the temps. I've found that the beers turn out really bitter if dryhopped at 30-35 degrees, so I like to cool it down a bit.
Please let us know how they turn out. Always looking for a nice Kveik recipe
 
That's interesting, I've got a packet of Ebbergarden from them that I bought last year, that states no bacteria. Not fair, I want the bacteria now.
I'll let you know if it comes out sour. If all goes well I'm very happy to post some flakes or a bottle of beer once I can safely go to the post office again.

Hi. Sounds like a couple of good beers :)
I don't know much about the sour but with the starter it's what I do. Just take some wort and pitch the Kveik there while I'm waiting for the boil and leave it on the counter. By the time you're going to pich it you'll see the Kveik is working.

On another note. If you're going to dryhop, I always like to do it after most of the ferment is over because of the temps. I've found that the beers turn out really bitter if dryhopped at 30-35 degrees, so I like to cool it down a bit.
Please let us know how they turn out. Always looking for a nice Kveik recipe
Will definitely post back here when I have some results. In another forum someone suggested making an Ebbegarden starter a day before at 35°c to help grow the lactobacillus. I'm keeping the recipes simple this time and really focusing on getting the most out the yeast. If the sourness is bland I'll look more into dry hopping.
 
For the real Kveik I've heard you can use Facebook. There are multiple pages just for Kveik. I got it from the Norwegian homebrew forum Norbrygg.no. U could sign up there and ask. They are really helpful.

Thanks. I'm also not a Facebook user (walled garden, privacy concerns, blah blah), but do appreciate the pointer to the Norwegian homebrew website. I'll try over there.
 

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