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Right it's over 24 hours since I pitched and there's no yeast activity. I've aerated it again and have now it set to 30°C but I fear it may be dead.

Has anyone else used Olso, and know what the typical lag time is?
 
Right it's over 24 hours since I pitched and there's no yeast activity. I've aerated it again and have now it set to 30°C but I fear it may be dead.

Has anyone else used Olso, and know what the typical lag time is?
Did you add sufficient nutrients? For a 10L batch that would be 2 tsp. How much yeast did you pitch?
 
Yep added nutrient. Pitched the whole pack too.

Edit : I didn't make a starter because I thought it was better to under pitch Kveik yeasts.
 
I'm thinking it's just an bad pack of yeast, I've messaged the seller so I'll get a new one sent and I can try again another time. I've decided to turn this Marzen into a Belgian beer instead now. I've added 50ml of black treacle mixed with spring water and Mangrove Jack's Belgian Tripel yeast which I had saved from a couple of weeks ago.

The beer is dead, long live the beer.

Update: It's now bubbling away nicely, one every 4 seconds. It may not be the beer that I'd originally planned for but it will be beer.
 
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I tried some of my Ebbegarden from the fermenter today, I brewed it on Wednesday. No hops, a really nice prominent sourness with some fruit coming through, although not the nicest sample as it was 30c and flat. Ebbegarden attention is 82% and this is currently at 77% so got a bit more to go.
 
I will make a Kveik farmhouse beer to 10 litres in the next few days. I have CML Kveik how much should I add to a 10 litres batch?
 
This is the Irish dry stout fermented with Voss. Neutral yeast flavour, clean malt forward, cleaner than 1084 imo. Ready as soon as i carbed it up. Fermented at 30c for a few days. I normally use 1084 now as i dont need a beer in a week very often and i like the flavour from 1084 and it saves energy. The difference is subtle and if you have not tried it well worth a go. Its very versatile. For strong beers i think its amazing as well. This beer was not boiled. Photo is of the lacing after 24 hours of force carbing.

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This is the Irish dry stout fermented with Voss. Neutral yeast flavour, clean malt forward, cleaner than 1084 imo. Ready as soon as i carbed it up. Fermented at 30c for a few days. I normally use 1084 now as i dont need a beer in a week very often and i like the flavour from 1084 and it saves energy. The difference is subtle and if you have not tried it well worth a go. Its very versatile. For strong beers i think its amazing as well. This beer was not boiled. Photo is of the lacing after 24 hours of force carbing.

dsc_2937-jpg.27837
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I plan a raw stout next. I have done a few raw ales. My latest was a heffweizen. Where did you buy the voss kviek. Do you just keep reusing the slurry
 
I plan a raw stout next. I have done a few raw ales. My latest was a heffweizen. Where did you buy the voss kviek. Do you just keep reusing the slurry
I am using the farmhouse strain i got from Norway a few years ago. I tend to make starters and split them or top crop. Slurry is fine though. Also done raw wheat beers with 3068, makes a really fast beer at normal temps.
 
I am using the farmhouse strain i got from Norway a few years ago. I tend to make starters and split them or top crop. Slurry is fine though. Also done raw wheat beers with 3068, makes a really fast beer at normal temps.
I had a voss strain that was sent to be by Dan last year. I did a few beers with it. The last was an imperial stout but I stupidly never saved the slurry from it. I was looking at maybe sigmund kviek which is saying is Voss
 
I plan a raw stout next. I have done a few raw ales. My latest was a heffweizen. Where did you buy the voss kviek. Do you just keep reusing the slurry
I got mine from crossmyloof on their eBay page. 11g pack for £4.05
 
This is the Irish dry stout fermented with Voss. Neutral yeast flavour, clean malt forward, cleaner than 1084 imo. Ready as soon as i carbed it up. Fermented at 30c for a few days. I normally use 1084 now as i dont need a beer in a week very often and i like the flavour from 1084 and it saves energy. The difference is subtle and if you have not tried it well worth a go. Its very versatile. For strong beers i think its amazing as well. This beer was not boiled. Photo is of the lacing after 24 hours of force carbing.

dsc_2937-jpg.27837
View attachment 27839View attachment 27838


That looks brilliant. I'm keen to have a crack at a no boil Witbier.

Interested though, how do you work out hop utilization and sub-boiling temps? Cheers
 
That looks brilliant. I'm keen to have a crack at a no boil Witbier.

Interested though, how do you work out hop utilization and sub-boiling temps? Cheers
If its a really low IBU beer you can add hops to the mash but its not very efficient. I make a hop tea which i boil and add when pitching. About 1 to 1.5l of water boiled for 30m. Use the calc to wok out IBU and set the OG to 1 as your boiling water not wort. IBU Calculator Beer Bitterness - Brewer's Friend
For example. 10g of 10AA pellets boiled in 1l of water for 30m will contribute 12.23 IBU when added to 25l of wort. If say you want a higher IBU and need to boil lots of hops just use more water.
 
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If its a really low IBU beer you can add hops to the mash but its not very efficient. I make a hop tea which i boil and add when pitching. About 1 to 1.5l of water boiled for 30m. Use the calc to wok out IBU and set the OG to 1 as your boiling water not wort. IBU Calculator Beer Bitterness - Brewer's Friend

Thanks for that. Hop tea makes sense. I had been thinking of effectively doing a first wort hop addition before raising the temp to just below boiling, then the same addition would then become a like a whirlpool addition as the wort slowly cools (no chill). However, this will require a fairly chunky addition if using lower alpha hops to fit a style which might not be appropriate if the style doesn't call for a lot of hop flavor/aroma. Have you tried/had good results doing the same/similar?
 
Thanks for that. Hop tea makes sense. I had been thinking of effectively doing a first wort hop addition before raising the temp to just below boiling, then the same addition would then become a like a whirlpool addition as the wort slowly cools (no chill). However, this will require a fairly chunky addition if using lower alpha hops to fit a style which might not be appropriate if the style doesn't call for a lot of hop flavor/aroma. Have you tried/had good results doing the same/similar?
I have did both. I made a heffweizen using the hop tea method and made a red English IPA adding hops at 80 degrees. The IPA I added 50g of fuggles plus 50g EKG. Plus the same dry hop. It turned out great and I got enough bitterness of the first hop addition. I hope this helps.
 

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