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Thanks for that. Hop tea makes sense. I had been thinking of effectively doing a first wort hop addition before raising the temp to just below boiling, then the same addition would then become a like a whirlpool addition as the wort slowly cools (no chill). However, this will require a fairly chunky addition if using lower alpha hops to fit a style which might not be appropriate if the style doesn't call for a lot of hop flavor/aroma. Have you tried/had good results doing the same/similar?
What i do if i make a hoppy beer is put the hops in when i pasteurise the wort. You can do it for however long you want then i put it in a cube. There is no need to raise the wort to boiling 75c is enough. If i make a beer with only bittering hops i pasteurise in the mashtun and add the tea with the yeast. Its not really FWH additions unless you boil the beer so you want to use the mash option in brewers friend. The reason i take the grain out if i am making a hoppy beer is for better hop utilisation but its not necessary for sanitary purposes. Hope that makes sense.
 
Does anyone have trouble bottle carbonating kveik? I've read that some strains floc really hard, even when fermentation isn't complete so bottle carbing can be tricky. Does anyone have any tips for this?

I'm using Skare which I think does this. First brew I made with it I held at a constant 33°c and fermented within days. I bottled asap and but the bottles in a cellar, I'd guess it's between around 17C in there. I used this bottling calculator to prime to 2.4 CO2 vol but most bottles have come out flat.

I repitched Skare into a stout at around 35C but didn't put in my fridge, instead wrapped in a sleeping bag. This time fermentation stopped at something like 60% attenuation and the sample I took was really clear, especially for a stout, so I moved into my fridge, cranked up to 33°c and gently rocked the FV. Later that day there was some airlock activity, so I think it was just the yeast floc'ing too well.
 
First time using Kveik today. I got some CML and it's going in an AIPA at 35 degrees...I plan to dry hop.
Should I drop the temp for the dry hop?
Yes, I'd recommend dropping to "regular" temps (20°c or lower). Hop oils start to evaporate around 35°c and have heard from a number of people on another forum that their dry hops were nonexistent when they went in warm.
 
Does anyone have trouble bottle carbonating kveik? I've read that some strains floc really hard, even when fermentation isn't complete so bottle carbing can be tricky. Does anyone have any tips for this?

I'm using Skare which I think does this. First brew I made with it I held at a constant 33°c and fermented within days. I bottled asap and but the bottles in a cellar, I'd guess it's between around 17C in there. I used this bottling calculator to prime to 2.4 CO2 vol but most bottles have come out flat.

I repitched Skare into a stout at around 35C but didn't put in my fridge, instead wrapped in a sleeping bag. This time fermentation stopped at something like 60% attenuation and the sample I took was really clear, especially for a stout, so I moved into my fridge, cranked up to 33°c and gently rocked the FV. Later that day there was some airlock activity, so I think it was just the yeast floc'ing too well.

I did have in the past i seem to remember. took over a year and the beer was cack by then. You could open the bottles and squirt a little fresh yeast in with a syringe.

What temp are you mashing at? I always used to go between 65 and 70 but getting much higher in the low 60's
 
I did have in the past i seem to remember. took over a year and the beer was cack by then. You could open the bottles and squirt a little fresh yeast in with a syringe.

What temp are you mashing at? I always used to go between 65 and 70 but getting much higher in the low 60's
I think all these beers I mashed 65C. I took another reading of the stout and it seems to be stuck.
 
Second attempt at using Kveik today.

I'm brewing a Zeus, Chinook, Cascade IPA O.G. 1.055. Used yeast nutrient in the wort and have kept a flask of wort aside with a little extra nutrient for rehydrating the yeast. Shook to oblivion and sprinkled 1g of Stranda Kveik on top. I'm going to give it an hour or so to get going before I pitch it.
 
IMG_20200621_150830.jpg

It's just wrong I tell ya....!
 
Is the CML likely to give problems with bottle carbonation?
Nope - I think it did take longer than usual but I just put the bottles in carrier bags and left them in the hall which isn't ideal. I did think there was going to be a problem at first but they're all good after 2 weeks.

EDIT; This was after a good few days cold crashing at 0.7c, too. The cold crash seemed to do nothing but they've cleared fantastically in the bottle.
 
Hi Clint i have 2 packs of cml kveik but no temp control i plan on waiting for a hot day later this week then stopping the chiller at say 30c and hoping once it gets going it will maintain that temp or a bit more here's hoping
 
My brew fridge settled around 33.5 before I put the fv in...it kicked off in a few hours and the fermentation got it up the last couple of degrees.
I think it'll take a bit longer at lower temperatures...but I'm guessing as never used it before ..
 
Hi @BeerCat, looking good, I'm about to keg my stout, I was going to bottle but decided to keg as I hate bottling, anyhow, what did you force carb at if you don't mind as I don't want to over carb. Thanks in advance

Colin.

I serve my lagers at 20psi so if i want to force carb a full keg i set it to 60psi for 18 to 24 hours then drop back to 20. As i like my stout almost flat last time i set it at 20psi for a day then turned off the gas. Then when i gets a bit slow to pour i add a bit of gas back. Maybe try setting it to double your serving pressure for 12 hours and go from there. I hope that makes sense.
 

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