Lot's of sediment in bottles

[Mungri]

Has anyone else made the Beer works Presidents Sierra kit?
Had it in the FV for 2 weeks. Secondary fermentation for 9 days with the prescribed amount of priming solution.
Transferring it to cold conditioning today and surprised at the amount of sediment in the bottom of the bootles.About 1mm i'd say.
I've only made one other kit to compare with, that being a Woodfordes Nelsons Revenge.
The Woodfordes had very little sediment in the bottles.
The Beer Works kit coes with 50g Citra hop pellets to add at five days. Would this account for the extra sediment?
I did use the nylon straing bag that came with the kit on my syphon.
Any advice appreciated.

 

[YouFUMS]

I'm a bit of a novice myself, having only completed 2 kits.
My 1st kit was the Youngs American IPA, which I followed instructions to the letter, and ended up with quite a lot of sediment, and VERY gassy beer in the bottles.
My second kit was a Beerworks kit called Dragon's Spéciale Kentish Bitter. This time I took more advice from experienced brewers on here. I had it in the FV for around 17 days before lugging the FV into the garage to cold crash for 2 days. This certainly dropped the hops. I then used a mesh bag on each end of my siphon to transfer the brew to my PB (30 pints) and into bottles (10 pints) along with the secondary sugar which I had dissolved into water. Taking as much care as possible not to disturb the trub on the bottom of the FV when siphoning.
The second brew is almost clear of ANY sediment in the bottles, and not as lively/fizzy. I'm gonna try the same method when I barrel / bottle my BeerWorks Spire IPA that will be ready next week.

 

[Mungri]

I'm a bit of a novice myself, having only completed 2 kits.
My 1st kit was the Youngs American IPA, which I followed instructions to the letter, and ended up with quite a lot of sediment, and VERY gassy beer in the bottles.
My second kit was a Beerworks kit called Dragon's Spéciale Kentish Bitter. This time I took more advice from experienced brewers on here. I had it in the FV for around 17 days before lugging the FV into the garage to cold crash for 2 days. This certainly dropped the hops. I then used a mesh bag on each end of my siphon to transfer the brew to my PB (30 pints) and into bottles (10 pints) along with the secondary sugar which I had dissolved into water. Taking as much care as possible not to disturb the trub on the bottom of the FV when siphoning.
The second brew is almost clear of ANY sediment in the bottles, and not as lively/fizzy. I'm gonna try the same method when I barrel / bottle my BeerWorks Spire IPA that will be ready next week.

Interesting. Only done 3 kits myself. Learned quickly to listen to the members in the forum and ignore the timings given by the kit instructions.
Got another beer works pale in the FV now. I'm going to add the hop pellets on day 9, not day 5 as the instructions say.
Followed the instructions last time and by the time fermentation was finished on day 14 I wasn't getting any hop aroma from the brew.

 

[Hijinx]

I'm also looking for tips to reduce sediment (I dont expect to eliminate totally).

Bit of background - I am a novice and just starting my 2nd kit.
I just successfully completed a Youngs American IPA kit (went well for 40 bottles) using this starter kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ELHENN8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I have a Festival stag summer ale kit in the post and getting ready for brew day.

The starter kit I linked comes with FV with tap at the bottom and a "bottling wand" that pushes onto the tap, with a valve to reduce oxygenation during bottling.
Also I elected to use carbonation drops rather than the kit priming sugar as adding the priming sugar in the FV would be a bit of a pain to get it mixed evenly without stirring up all the hop residues.
It's my preference to bottle rather than use keg due to carbonation, portability, storage etc so bottling wand works for me.

Does anyone have any tips on how to reduce sediment for bottling only?

I considered to use hop bag for dry hopping stage, but I heard that this can significantly reduce hop flavour.
Maybe I can use a mesh bag over the hopping wand? Seems like it might work but could be difficult to position in a 500ml bottle...

Most open to any other tips.

Thanks!

 

[terrym]

Wot I do to minimise yeast carry over into bottles or PB.
About 8/9 days in the FV or until the airlock has almost stopped bubbling whichever is longer.
Then I rack off into a second FV. The beer will be near its FG at this stage but a lot of yeast will have dropped. (Note some people don't rack off like me, in which case they just leave it alone)
Two more days at temperature, then add hops if going for a dry hop or adding a hop tea, then four more days in the warm, then move to a cold place, which is now my fridge. Further 2/3 days in the cold, after which the beer will be almost clear.
Then into bottles or PB.
There is enough yeast present in the beer to carb up even though it may look clear, it might just take a little longer.
So the solution to minimising sediment is time, gravity and cold.

 

[terrym]

I considered to use hop bag for dry hopping stage, but I heard that this can significantly reduce hop flavour.
Maybe I can use a mesh bag over the hopping wand? Seems like it might work but could be difficult to position in a 500ml bottle...

Hop bags are useful for keeping hop particles from being carried forward. They might reduce the uptake of the hop 'goodness' a little but not significantly so.
If you have a Festival kit coming you may find it has a small nylon sock if the kit has hops for dry hopping. This is not a bag in which to put the hops but fits over the syphon tube. I use one of these and it works well.
This might be useful to you
A Newbies Guide to Dry Hopping Your Beer - The HomeBrew Forum

 

[IainM]

I'm also looking for tips to reduce sediment (I dont expect to eliminate totally).

Bit of background - I am a novice and just starting my 2nd kit.
I just successfully completed a Youngs American IPA kit (went well for 40 bottles) using this starter kit: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ELHENN8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I have a Festival stag summer ale kit in the post and getting ready for brew day.

The starter kit I linked comes with FV with tap at the bottom and a "bottling wand" that pushes onto the tap, with a valve to reduce oxygenation during bottling.
Also I elected to use carbonation drops rather than the kit priming sugar as adding the priming sugar in the FV would be a bit of a pain to get it mixed evenly without stirring up all the hop residues.
It's my preference to bottle rather than use keg due to carbonation, portability, storage etc so bottling wand works for me.

Does anyone have any tips on how to reduce sediment for bottling only?

I considered to use hop bag for dry hopping stage, but I heard that this can significantly reduce hop flavour.
Maybe I can use a mesh bag over the hopping wand? Seems like it might work but could be difficult to position in a 500ml bottle...

Most open to any other tips.

Thanks!

Sure, my first couple of kits had loads of sediment in them. First thing is to make sure that the fermentation has completely finished and the most the yeast has had time to settle and compact. Putting the fv somewhere cold for a couple of days helps with this, and it helps it you don't move the fv after this. Secondly, instead of bottling straight from the fv, I transfer to a separate bottling bucket fitted with a tap and a little bottler. Do the transfer with a siphon tube with a sediment trap on the end. To stop the trap waving around and stirring up sediment, I clip it to the side of the fv, a first with a cloths peg and elastic bands, but now I use a siphon clip.

 

[Hijinx]

Thanks for the replies guys!