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Mods to a 40L Buffalo boiler

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Cestrian

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Just tried this perforated false bottom that I’ve had kicking around the garage for ages and it fits perfectly. There’s like a 12” diameter recess 10mm deep in the 40L boiler that this fits like a glove. Just need to take the ball valve off my old boiler and connect a bit of copper pipe to it.

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Baz Chaz

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Another here never a problem with rolling boil.
Stand boiler on a 'workmate' during boil to help stop the boiler base overheating (after listening to those who had boiler cut out problems)
The other thing is to make sure no build up of crud on the inside of the boiler, clean properly after use.

Home made copper manifold as well!
 
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Brew_DD2

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I'm keen to get a boiler that won't need constant stirring during the ramp up. The Peco suits my needs very well, but the element requires constant stirring during the ramp up or you get scorching. It's a ballache being stuck to stirring for this period.

Any recommendations?
 

conspiccus

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I just got my 40L buffalo boiler today and started setting it up. I used guidance from another post on this forum, which suggested a 3/8" ball valve, 3/8" parallel nipple, hop bazooka and 3/4" kevlar washers to seal. My issue is that the Kevlar washers got wet (which they did not handle well as they ripped) and were leaking, so I was wondering what other people did to avoid this and what washers they used to seal? thanks!
 

Gerryjo

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I just got my 40L buffalo boiler today and started setting it up. I used guidance from another post on this forum, which suggested a 3/8" ball valve, 3/8" parallel nipple, hop bazooka and 3/4" kevlar washers to seal. My issue is that the Kevlar washers got wet (which they did not handle well as they ripped) and were leaking, so I was wondering what other people did to avoid this and what washers they used to seal? thanks!
They certainly weren't Kevlar washers if they ripped as that's used in bullet proof vests and manufactured down the road in DuPont.
Viton or silicone washers will do your job.
 

Cestrian

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can anyone tell me how to get the bottom off this boiler to adjust the thermostat. Did my first brew with it on Sunday and it would boil fine for 10 minutes then go to warm setting for 5 minutes. Need to remove the thermostat but don’t want to damage anything removing the bottom plate underneath. It’s not obvious!
 

UKSkydiver

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To keep a rolling boil remove the bottom and unclip the thermocouple from the base and tied it away from the base, that way your not modding any electric parts.

That is what i did hundreds of boils ago. The only other thing that could stop it boiling is flour/gunk on the bottom plate.
I've done exactly this; moved the metal thermostat probe from the base of the kettle to the cross beam on the inside "legs", but I still can't get a boil and this is with only ~14 litres. I don't think the thermal cut out is cutting out as I've upped that to 130c ish

There isn't any crud on the bottom of the kettle near the element.

What am I doing wrong (and sorry for hijacking this thread, I've had so few replies to my thread.)
 

UKSkydiver

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can anyone tell me how to get the bottom off this boiler
Depends on the model. Mine is CC193

Four screws and the base plate comes off

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I moved the probe from the underside of the base (1) and taped it to the horizontal leg support (2)

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( . . . not that it did me much good . . . )
 
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man_beach

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I've got 2 30l Burcos and replaced the tap with these (Chinese, on ebay)
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Cestrian

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@UKSkydiver Mine is model GL349-02. There was only one screw underneath and that was just spinning round so I removed it with a chisel. I think that’s my warranty gone! I’ve now realised that screw was probably where the earth wire is attached to the inside. The screws for the base must be underneath the feet. I’ve tried to prise one off with a screwdriver but it feels like I am going to damage it.
on yours the leg supports are attached to the bottom of the heater and they are made of metal so they’re probably conducting heat and getting as hot as the original position. You should try wrapping the thermocouple in a handful of insulating material, like cotton wool or similar and then taping to the leg support.
Can you just remove the thermostat. I’m sure I did this on my last boiler, but it was a long time ago.

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UKSkydiver

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On yours the leg supports are attached to the bottom of the heater and they are made of metal so they’re probably conducting heat and getting as hot as the original position.
That is a good shout - thanks for the heads up!

(and it shows moving the probe out of harms way, which I hand't seen / appreciated when I watched it last time)
 
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Richie_asg1

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I fitted a PID controller to mine which gives good control doing BIAB with it. Found a stainless "Steamer plate" which fits nicely to keep the bag off the element. I needed 3 bolts for legs on mine because the element had broken and was f'in expensive so fitted 2x 500W elements instead. Kept the safety cut out for it and works so far.
I also have the same problem with bazooka blocking up using pellets - even in bags. I now let the lot out and filter through a large bag on the way into the FV.
 

conspiccus

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Just bought a 40l Buffalo Boiler and done my first BIAB with it this week. The only mod I've done is change the tap to a ball valve type with a bazooka hop filter. Took a few attempts to get a seal after I shredded the Kevlar washer. I found fitting a couple of 3/4 inch fibre washers - inside and outside - did the job. No problem achieving a rolling boil - just set it to High and off it went. Very pleased. Now have 23 litres of Yorkshire Bitter fermenting away. Happy Days!
I'm trying to do the same, what size ball valve did you use? given the weird oval hole, I was thinking 1/2" would be too wide, but I am having trouble getting a good seal with my 3/8" (can't find good washers to fit and seal)
 

Bedale Brewman

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I used a 3/8th inch ball valve and the other bits and pieces from BES - see https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-fit-a-ball-valve-and-hop-stopper-to-a-buffalo-boiler.30639/
The newer boilers have an oval hole instead of a round hole.
I overtightened the tap and shredded the Kevlar washer on my first attempt. Got two 3/4inch washers from a plumbing merchant and fitted one on the outside and one on the inside of the tap. Touch wood, no leaks. In hindsight I would have ordered a couple more Kevlar washers!
 

UKSkydiver

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My hole was already round, but 3/8" I think. Either way, I cut it out with a Q-Max to fit 1/2" BSP fittings which I got from Pipe Dream Fittings (I have no association with the company).

After having done some research, as I found the measurements can be a bit confusing.... it is the P in BSP that is the clue. The BSP measurements are for the internal bore, not the external dimensions. Hence 1/2" BSP is actually 3/4" outside. Simple when someone explains it. Gotta love the internet.

I got a tap and all the gubbins for about £18, £4 of that was shipping and £3 was VAT.

Here is the list as someone might find it useful:


In fact I ordered too much - I didn't need the elbow and I only needed one hex nut. YMMV.

I got some (M20) stainless steel washers from this place on eBay

and some 34mm x 20mm silicone washers from this place on eBay
 
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