Newbie Brewer from Salisbury

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Which is good to hear, but the opposite of my experience with albeit basic PBs where I only have one usable PB from four, the other three having failed well within two years of purchase with splits or pinhole leaks in the shell which can't be fixed. So when this last one fails it won't be replaced. asad1

That’s not so good, especially if you lost beer as a result! ashock1
 
There's some that chuck the hops in as they are, some that use a bag (with or without weights like SS spoons) and some that use the sock thingy over the end of the siphon tube. I have done all three methods. In my view there is no right or wrong way. However as a 'newbie' I suggest you start off with a nylon mesh bag until you get the hang of things, or if you really want to chuck the hops in use the nylon mesh sock over the FV end of the siphon, but if you do latter give the brew two days in the cold at the end to encourage the hop bits to settle as well as the yeast so that the bag mesh doesn't clog whilst you are siphoning. And finally when siphoning out of the FV a clip holding the tube in place at the FV rim is useful (your LHBS may have these, mine is made from two clothes pegs and some garden wire!), and when the liquid level has dropped a block of wood or similar placed under the bottom edge of the FV opposite the end of the siphon tube , so that you can better remove the last of the clear beer without drawing in the yeasty trub layer at the bottom as well.

After a bit more looking around I decided to purchase a “Hop Spider” https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07D1J1SY4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 not sure if you have used these before?
 
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Opinion seems to be is split on whether plastic pressure barrels (PBs) are the dog's whatsits or a pile of dog's whatsit. They have the advantage of being convenient at packaging time and can dispense a super pint, but they are only really suitable for low carb beers like ales and stouts (not AIPAs) due to the pressure limits they have. But the biggest disadvantage is that they sometimes leak from seals (which is inconvenient but can be fixed) or worse they split and then become unusable. Some people would rather bypass them completely and go to cornies when moving away from bottles.
My suggestion to you is to stick with bottles and minikegs for the time being and then decide what you want to do next. And you don't have to buy bottles to store your beer you can use PET bottles that have previously held a fizzy drink like I do (although some brewers don't like PET bottles) or second hand beer bottles which will require a capper and caps unless you can acquire some flip tops.
Edit-
Now looked at what you have bought, which apparently includes a PB. Its obviously up to you whether you use it or not. But be advised its better to fill it as much as you can at the outset unless you can purge out the air with CO2 from a part empty PB due the spoiling properties of oxygen
And there's a long thread on your AIPA kit here
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/youngs-american-ipa.45221
But be aware that at 19*C fermentation temperature it could take over 14 days perhaps 20 days before you can add the hops as I and others have found out. So dont rush it.

just spotted your edit!
It is still currently sitting at around 19*C I am planning to leave it doing it’s thing until at least day 12 or so.

I understand what you mean re it being best to fully use the PB or not at all, half filling it won’t be the best result for the initial CO2 level?

I am leaning towards bottles and mini kegs now, drinking 40pints sharpish is full on!
 
After a bit more looking around I decided to purchase a “Hop Spider” https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07D1J1SY4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 not sure if you have used these before?
Yes to everything terrym said plus if you get your hands on a few of the wire cages that hold champagne corks in place, putiing one of these inside the hop sock to prevent the sock getting drawn in towards your syphon will keep your beer flowing during transfer. You might need to change to a fresh sock once or twice during the process but i find this works a treat.
 
Yes to everything terrym said plus if you get your hands on a few of the wire cages that hold champagne corks in place, putiing one of these inside the hop sock to prevent the sock getting drawn in towards your syphon will keep your beer flowing during transfer. You might need to change to a fresh sock once or twice during the process but i find this works a treat.

Thank you for that! I have seen a lot of people saying how much of a headache it CAN be with the siphon clogging
 
So after a LOT of reading up, I may well just put this very first brew in the PB provided and keep it as basic as possible. I want to bottle but all the rinse/no rinse/rinsing defeats the point of sanitising/how to dry bottles etc etc debate seems a headache before I even know if this first AIPA brew is going to be drinkable!
 
Hey all,
So, I have dry hopped, got my SG spot on and looking to siphon into my pressure barrel today.
This may seem like a stupid question..but the internet has no answers it seems...
Assumedly I fully sterilise & rinse (I have the Young's kit steriliser) my pressure barrel, tap, cap etc before I transfer my brew over? - again it seems SO obvious, but MANY google searches just come up with needing to sterilise bottles..nothing about PBs!

Thanks in advance
 
Hey all,
So, I have dry hopped, got my SG spot on and looking to siphon into my pressure barrel today.
This may seem like a stupid question..but the internet has no answers it seems...
Assumedly I fully sterilise & rinse (I have the Young's kit steriliser) my pressure barrel, tap, cap etc before I transfer my brew over? - again it seems SO obvious, but MANY google searches just come up with needing to sterilise bottles..nothing about PBs!

Thanks in advance
Yes, you should clean and sanitise your pb (and your siphon) before fillling
 
A week in the PB for the Youngs AIPA, smelling and tasting (I HAD to) great. Now comes the being patient bit..

So...I'm going to start another brew up this coming week, another kit, try bottling & see how that goes. Ideally a pale or something more sessionable..any suggestions?
I am currently looking at the Bulldog Four Finger Jack American Pale Kit - 4.6%. Has anyone brewed this and has any feedback?

Thanks as ever
acheers.
 
A week in the PB for the Youngs AIPA, smelling and tasting (I HAD to) great. Now comes the being patient bit..

So...I'm going to start another brew up this coming week, another kit, try bottling & see how that goes. Ideally a pale or something more sessionable..any suggestions?
I am currently looking at the Bulldog Four Finger Jack American Pale Kit - 4.6%. Has anyone brewed this and has any feedback?

Thanks as ever
acheers.

How about something different - a nice thick sweet comforting stout. If you don’t like stout, maybe a hazy IPA or a saison?
 
I am very much strictly sticking to the instructions as a first timer, but keen to get as much feedback from you all here as possible, slightly easier or better ways to do things in future, what I do and don’t need to stress about or overthink (mainly sanitation and regulated temp it seems?).

Do you advise getting a muslin/nylon bag for the hops?..OR for the end of the siphoning tube if I put them directly into the brew? I feel the latter would give the best of both full hop flavour and stopping any ‘bits’ when kegging/bottling?

Thanks again for the help

I have tried bags and what’s known as hop spiders to keep the hops from getting into the syphon when transferring to a bottling bucket or keg. I find that putting hops in directly gives more aroma, basic law of physics because more hop comes into contact with the beer. After a cold crash I use a spider like this Sepikey 7x30cm Stainless Steel Strainer Tool Hopper Filter Kettle Hop Beer Cartridge Wine Brewing Spider Kegs for Homebrew:Amazon.co.uk:Kitchen & Home Put this into the fermenter, put your syphon inside and it will catch all the bits, with enough surface area to allow beer to pass through without clogging.
 
I have tried bags and what’s known as hop spiders to keep the hops from getting into the syphon when transferring to a bottling bucket or keg. I find that putting hops in directly gives more aroma, basic law of physics because more hop comes into contact with the beer. After a cold crash I use a spider like this Sepikey 7x30cm Stainless Steel Strainer Tool Hopper Filter Kettle Hop Beer Cartridge Wine Brewing Spider Kegs for Homebrew:Amazon.co.uk:Kitchen & Home Put this into the fermenter, put your syphon inside and it will catch all the bits, with enough surface area to allow beer to pass through without clogging.

Totally agree..as a complete beginner and trying to learn without asking TOO many questions..this is exactly what I ended up trying/doing - it made sense that it would do the same job, but also allow me to add the hops directly. Worked awesomely (from what I can see).
 
Picked this up a few days ago..

Looking to bottle and mini keg this one.
Any advice etc on this kit or 5l mini kegging is appreciated, as ever!✌🏼

2AFBAB90-D502-4BE1-8D26-1E60D98744E9.jpeg
 

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