One step forward, one step backward.

[moto748]

Just tried one of recent batches of bitter,and although it looks great, yes, it's too bitter again. As was the previous one. The moral clearly is, I wish, I'd had sight of those IBU calculators earlier! Basically, it seems to me, what I got away with with the pretty mild Goldings doesn't work with the same recipe when replacing them with nominally similar hops, and if that's combined with an inefficient brew (this one was well below average for me), I'm going to end up with a pretty bitter beer. Oh well, you live and learn!

 

[chopps]

Yep, you definitely learn!
Brewfather and Brewers Friend have saved me from this a few times when swapping hops. Definitely recommended.

 

[Sandimas]

Even with the same hops the AA and resultant IBU can vary from batch to batch, I've currently got some Fuggles than are nearly half the AA compared to the last batch. Always worth plugging the recipe into a calculator rather than winging it.

What IBU did you end up with? I've never actually made a beer that's too bitter to my taste, although I did find one at a beer festival once.

 

[smcc]

you need to pay attention to the alpha acid content this is the primary bitterness driver 50g of one low is not same as 50g of a hop with high content.

We learned following calc in Brewlab

Volume (Litres) * Target EBU * 10
------------------------------------ = Grams Hops required
Hop Util % * Alpha Acid %

 

[moto748]

Yeah, I have a much better handle on it now, the IBU calculator, etc. And of course hops vary, and 'nominal' AA values may only give a rough guide, I get that.

So after some thought, I had the chastening experience this morning of pouring a batch of beer down the drain and washing the bottles, something I've never done before. But I reasoned it was never going to improve, too bitter is too bitter, and why drink beer that doesn't taste good? Sunk cost fallacy!

It's such a shame, cos on every other criterion, colour, strength, carbonation, etc, it looked very good. But it got me a bit worried. What about the next batch? Well the 'next' batch was actually brewed before this one, but it's still pretty cloudy, mostly cos I forgot the protofloc on that one. So I'd kinda put it to one side. But hey ho, it'll clear eventually.But I decided i would open one to taste it. And it's OK. Hoppy, but OK. Likewise, another batch, in demi-johns and just about ready for bottling (this was my first all-grain no-sugar brew), tasted that, and it tasted lovely. Flat, but lovely!


What IBU did you end up with? I've never actually made a beer that's too bitter to my taste, although I did find one at a beer festival once.

Lets just say, it was in three figures!

 

[Rodcx500z]

I would have kept it and used it for shandys in the summer when you need a real thirst quencher

 

[moto748]

I would have kept it and used it for shandys in the summer when you need a real thirst quencher

At least you didn't say, use it a drain cleaner!

 

[moto748]

In further one step forward, two steps back news...

Bit disappointed to find the first batch of stout I brewed is a bit on the flat side. Nothing much, but needs a bit more fizz and head. Looking back, it corresponds with the point at which I decided to abandon the 'half a spoonful of sugar' method of priming in favour of adding syrup. I opted initially for a generic 3 g per bottle, which I thought was on the low end of the spectrum. Maybe for stouts I will up that a bit in future. I just checked out the second batch of batch, and once again it lacks a bit of fizz, although it may condition further. Increasingly it seems to me, for bitter-type beer, my carbonation level may be fine, but perhaps to up it a little for stouts.

People who use the syringe method of priming: how many grams per bottle? And do you vary it according to beer type?

 

[moto748]

I've made a unilateral decision to up the priming to 4.8 g in bitters and 6 g in stouts.

 

[cushyno]

I vary the priming sugar depending on beer style. Anywhere between 100g and 180g per 23 litre batch. I seemed to go through a phase of low carbonation so upped the priming sugar. Now I'm finding every batch to be over-carbonated. I think this is to do with the yeast. If I use Nottingham it attenuates well and fast, meaning that bottle priming the yeast has only the priming sugar to use up. With other yeasts, such as CML Kölsch/Cali Common, MJ M36, or stuff I've cultured from St Austell bottles, the yeast takes a little longer to finish and seems to keep eating up sugars in the bottle therefore giving me more fizz. So, I'd use more priming sugar for Nottingham than for M36 for example.

4.5g / litre is good for me mostly.

 

[moto748]

Thanks. Those figures are a bit lower than I thinking of going, but as you say, the yeast is clearly going to be a factor. I have the means of easy adjustment, so I'll get there by trial and error!

 

[NPi]

Thanks. Those figures are a bit lower than I thinking of going, but as you say, the yeast is clearly going to be a factor. I have the means of easy adjustment, so I'll get there by trial and error!

Don't use trial and error, particularly if you are priming individually, use a priming calculator and get accurate measurements

https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/
Get yourself a few hundred ml of beer or water (A). Add the total number of bottles together in volume (B). Decide on the amount of sugar you want (C). Multiply the amount per bottle by the different size of bottle (D).

Dissolve the sugar into the beer fully and split between the bottles (A/B*D = C)
An example might be:
400ml/19000ml*500ml=10.5ml or just over two calpol syringes per bottle.

You can increase C by as much or as little as you like to style and preference.