Pavalijo’s Brewdays

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Pavalijo

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So here goes with AG01 after 11 kits over the past 12 months.

I gained courage having read the @clibit thread. Having read it from start to finish I decided to follow his Citra Pale Ale recipe rather than the simple smash.
His recipe was for a 10L batch which I upped to 15L batch and is:
Marris Otter 2.250kg (83.33%)
Caramalt. 0.150kg (5.56%)
Wheat malt. 0.150kg (5.56%)
Dextrose. 0.150kg (5.56%)
Mash at 66*C 60 minutes.
Hops:
7.5g Columbus leaf (17.1%AA) @ 60 minutes
11.0g Citra leaf ( 14.4% AA ) @ 15 minutes
21.0g Citra leaf ( 14.4% AA ) @ 5minutes
21.0g Citra leaf ( 14.4% AA ) @ 0 minutes

Safale US-05 yeast.

I actually added 8g of Columbus and 12.5/23g of Citra as the AA content stated on the packs was 16% and 12.8% respectively - first request for advice (although comments on all aspects very welcome) - did I do the correct thing by adjusting the quantity of hops based on AA content?

I would also add one third of a Britewort (Carigneen) tablet at 15 minutes.

I had acquired 25L of Tesco Ashbeck. Because this is a pale hoppy beer I thought I should add Gypsum. After seeking advice on here I added 8.9g to 20L. No further additions - I’ll get into that later when I get my head into a state where I can absorb and retain the Strange Steve thread! My litmus paper suggested that the Gypsum had made little or no difference to the Ph 6.5 of the Ashbeck.

I had purchased a Young’s large mash bag, a Thermapen and accurate scales. Here is part of the assembled gubbins:

A04D8871-063E-4DD0-A8AC-45CC3CF2D790.jpeg



I had assembled a 3 pot system comprising a Peco Electrim mash/boiler bin (£25 on eBay and in good nick), a 19L pot for dunk sparging with (£15 inc postage from eBay, rather thin but ok for sparging). The third element was a smaller pot we already had, together with a large colander that fits snugly inside - for a thorough drain without having to squeeze.

Here are the three pots outside under the gazebo (on the right is the third pot with colander and the grain draining inside it):
94A23996-86A8-4D8D-B15A-25FB0B8D50E1.jpeg


I added 12L of the Ashbeck to the Peco and switched it on. Whilst it warmed up I weighed out the hops and checked the weight of the grain bill that my daughter’s fiancé had supplied. Spot on!

I reckoned that I needed to add the grain at 76*c to achieve a 66*c mash. I added the grain gradually whilst stirring, happy that I had no dry spots. I was wrong with the strike temperature and stirred in another 1.0L of boiling water that I had already boiled in readiness and that got me to just above my target at 66.5*c.

I then wrapped the Peco in two blankets and two sheepskin rugs and stood it on Cellotex insulation:
07A65EDF-834B-474A-B2C9-DFE8AB22D650.jpeg

The photo also shows the third pot with colander. And two bananas.

During the 73 minutes I mashed (13 minutes more than intended) I twice opened the bin and stirred. I also put 8.5L of Ashbeck into the sparge pot and started heating that on the hob, targeting 85*c. At first stir after 25 minutes the temp had stayed at 66.5*c; at 48 minutes 65*c and at 66 minutes 64*c. The sparge water wasn’t quite ready yet and after 73 minutes I removed the grain bag and dunked it into sparge water at 86*c. After stirring thoroughly this dropped to 74.5*c.

Leaving the grain in the sparge water I took the Peco out to the brewery (ie the gazebo) and turned it to heat at full power. I stirred up the sparge 12 minutes after adding and it had dropped to 72*c already - must improve on that by insulation. Another 6 minutes later I gave a good agitation and removed the bag into the drain colander/pot and added the sparge water to the Peco. I had intended a slightly longer sparge than 18 minutes (do I need to sparge for longer?) but the wort in the Peco reached hot break so I added the sparge at that point. 15 minutes into the boil I added the sparge water drained by the colander. The grain was very dry, and whilst I didn’t want to add anything gained by squeezing I wanted to see how much that would yield - so I squeezed but got almost nothing.

I took a pre boil sample which I cooled to 20*c in the fridge and took the reading at 1.034

The boil went as planned, skimming the hot break with a sieve and adding the hops on time, along with the Britewort at 15 minutes. I added the brewing sugar at 60 minutes (start of boil).

The Peco showed 20L at the start of boil (I had previously checked the stuck on plastic scale), so I had lost 1.5L in the 2.55kg grain bill - 0.6L per kg, a little less loss than I had anticipated (I allowed for 2.0L). At the end of boil I estimated that I had 18L in the Peco. The Peco had cut out twice (quickly reset) and I’m not sure that the boil was quite as vigorous as I expected. I had estimated 3L loss in boiling and 1.5 to 2L of loss in the trub, so I may end up with more wort than intended. Next time I will insulate the Peco with yoga mat.

After 60 minutes I turned off and stirred in the final hops. After 10 minutes I tilted the Peco away from the tap and did a vigorous whirlpool stir. After another 17 minutes I began emptying. I had been looking for a bazooka filter to push into the Peco tap but couldn’t find one (I did find links on here but they were both out of date).

So with some trepidation I opened the tap with the sanitized sparge pot under it. Initially I got a good flow of relatively clear wort. For about 1 minute! Then almost nothing. I would later find one hop bud blocking the tap, so I definitely need to sort this. So - out with the siphon tube which allowed me to get most of the wort out. When I got to the trub in the bottom I tipped up the Peco and used my sanitised turkey baster to get as much of the remainder as I could.

The lid went on the sparge pot that was now to be employed to cool the wort. Into the sink it went and after three changes of water I added every freezer block that we possess:
3863280C-3CCA-4F0A-9F82-5DE120E62642.jpeg


After 65 minutes the wort had reached 21.5*c. I checked the OG which was 1.040, versus a target per @clibit recipe of 1.044.

However when I poured the wort through a sanitised filter bag (Sainsbury veg bag) the scale inside the SS Chronical (the scale is at 0.5 US gallon intervals so not great) suggested I had around 16.5 litres, 10% more than the 15L batch I intended.

I rehydrated the US-05 yeast and pitched it at 21.5*c.

Over the following 3 days I had a very vigorous fermentation which ended on day 4 - at 1.014. I had a look inside to find a scaly thin yeast layer on the top. I gently stirred this in and by the next day had very slow bubbling again. This is still going on day 9 of fermentation and I’m not going to touch it again until it stops.

Lessons learned/future improvements/advice requested:

  1. I really enjoyed the day. It took 5 hours start to finish and being mostly retired I’m not bothered about speeding that up too much!
  2. Learn more about water treatment.
  3. Was my adjustment to hop quantities based on AA content correct?
  4. Allow less for grain retention of water - can always add back in.
  5. Allow less for trub loss - can always add back in.
  6. Insulate the Peco with removable yoga mat to achieve better boil and more stable mash temperature (still adding the rugs and sheepskin during mash).
  7. Insulate the sparge bin to achieve more stable temperature.
  8. Improve the Peco tap with added bazooka filter.
  9. I added a whole 11.5g pack of yeast - more than needed but I don’t need any for the next brew (will try a different yeast) and my query is - can overpitching do any harm?
  10. I was targeting 15L at 1.044 and got 16.5L at 1.040. Can anyone tell me from the figures on here what %efficiency I achieved? I need to learn how to do that!
  11. What OG would I have achieved if I had used less water and hit the desired 15L batch size? My simple maths might suggest 1.044, the target quoted in @Clibit’s recipe, in which case I’m a happy bunny!
  12. Build a new brew shed.....
B25555AF-0D75-45F7-AF0B-EA62C3A404AA.jpeg


I will report back with a taste test in due course........thanks for reading.
 
Last edited:
I know this is a while ago, but only just seen the thread...

first request for advice (although comments on all aspects very welcome) - did I do the correct thing by adjusting the quantity of hops based on AA content?
Yes - absolutely, Nice one athumb..

Enjoyed reading your description and the photos - thanks for that - when's your next brew?
 
Incidentally, better than a 'bazooka', just get a length of metal pipe (SS or 10mm copper - very cheap from ScrewFix). Bend it to fit around the inside of your PICO, then make a load of cuts across it about 10mm apart with a fine hacksaw (e.g. junior hacksaw), going about halfway through. Connect it to the inside of the tap on your PICO with a bit of silicone hose stretched over, and just let it rest there in the bottom. Bob's your proverbial.
 
Incidentally, better than a 'bazooka'..........

That’s on the jobs list then, thanks. I’m having a break and heading to Spain for a few months. My pals have absolutely loved my Clibit’s Citra Pale Ale and I really enjoyed the process. So as soon as i get back mid September I’ll be getting my next brew under way.

Improvements will definitely include the copper filter. In addition I will fit a couple of yoga mats around the Peco in order to assist the sheepskins etc in maintaining mash temperature, and also to create a more vigorous boil.

I added gypsum to my Tesco Ashbeck but didn’t get the ph low enough - I will try to refine water additions as well. Lactose or phosphoric acid? I’m favouring the latter from my limited reading so far. Is there a reasonably accurate but cheap ph meter (£20-30 max - SWMBO is watching!)?

I suspect that I have brewed my last kit! I don’t do this to save money (though that is welcome) and I’ve had too many slightly disappointing results.

The CCPA is pouring slightly hazy but tastes great. It will be interesting to see how it pours in 3 months’ time.

My wife tasted and really loved it - she said “there’s something missing and it’s really fresh”. The “thing” that was missing was any trace of HB twang. And it really does taste fresh. Another friend said it tasted like a good commercial ale. At the same tasting he tried my Cwtch, which is one of my better kits, which he liked but the CCPA was his very clear favourite. I have another friend coming for a test this afternoon, then the remaining bottles will sit for 3 months, which will be interesting!

I very slightly under carbonated it, but the very slight bitterness and gentle citrus flavours, fairly light/moderate mouthfeel without an overly sweet maltiness that is not my thing makes this absolutely to my taste.

It had finished at 1.012, so 3.7% ABV, which I’m happy with. I don’t process alcohol too well and would probably aim for no more than 4.5% ideally.

7913784F-C6F8-4382-A37D-154FE42AD2AC.jpeg
 
I don’t do this to save money (though that is welcome) and I’ve had too many slightly disappointing results.
You're not wrong there. Frankly, with AG you can make beer that is every bit as good - and in some respects better - than a commercial brewery :-) You can certainly afford to use better and more interesting hops and grain :-)
 
Incidentally unless your tapwater is off-the-scale crazy, then you'll probably be OK using that instead of the Ashbeck, just adding half a ground up Camden tablet to get rid of the chlorine.

What region are you in? If you Google for "water report for my area" and download the water company report for your location, then post the results here we can have a look for you.
 
Thanks for the advice, I’ll get some of the acid mix and the litmus paper which gives a more accurate result than the one I have.

Here is the result of my Googling of the tap water, described as “moderately soft”. Right now I wouldn’t know where to start with this, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

CC1C141D-7FD8-4DE3-88BD-2770D96DBF4E.png
 
Here is the result of my Googling of the tap water, described as “moderately soft”. Right now I wouldn’t know where to start with this, so any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
OK that’s a good start! That gives you the Calcium, Magnesium and Sodium content - and all those look very good for brewing. Ideally you need a bit more information - in particular the Sulphate (SO4) and Chloride (Cl) content And a few other bits and bobs. I wonder if there is a more detailed report available: you might be able to find it on the website of your water company - or normally they are happy to tell you if you ask? Alternatively you can get yourself a couple of the Salifert water testing kits, which are cheap and good fun to do, and they will tell you precisely what’s coming out of your taps. I’ll post a link to them in a mo
 
Hmmmm I thought there was a Salifert test kit for Sulphates and Chloride, but seems I was mistaken. The ones I've got are for Calcium, which you already have figure for and 'alkalinity', which you will need but can probably get from a more detailed water report :-)

Which water company are you on?
 
We’re with Yorkshire Water. There appears to be a more detailed report dating back to 2018 for the supply source that we have. However with a day to go before a 3 month trip it will have to wait - I am taking a few books but may end up ignoring them and teaching myself water treatment with online resources!
 
So I’m back from Spain and preparing for brew AG02, which will be a Shipyard clone. I will be looking up a good recipe for a SAISON! but will do this (which I found whilst looking for the SAISON! recipe) first.

The Clibit Citra Pale Ale is drinking really well and nice and clear - well appreciated by myself and a couple of pals, so an American Pale Ale before the SAISON! it is. Not sure why I was concerned about carbonation levels before as it is pretty good.

The detailed water report discussed earlier is shown below. I think it has everything I need except CO3/HCO3. It shows as very slightly alkaline. I bought some AML/CRS as recommended by @The-Engineer-That-Brews and I have found the excellent water calculator on here. I will write to Yorkshire Water to request any updated information as well as whether they can give me carbonate figures.

Until then I’ve bought Tesco Ashbeck again in 5L bottles and will dose that per the calculator. I’ve also realised that I can put the wort in the containers to cool as that will have a greater surface area than the pot I used last time, plus I can put the lid on to shake them vigorously before pouring into the fermenter in order to get good aeration.

So here is the detailed water report - it shows a ph value (“hydrogen ion”) and “total hardness” figure. Is there a way of calculating how much AML/CRS I need to add? I was surprised at the range of figures reported for each component and would intend to use the mean.
6D75B8F8-268C-43A6-8078-A43F381714C7.png


I still intend to create the copper pipe filter as recommended by @The-Engineer-That-Brews but until I find the time to do that I have fitted a new tap and bazooka filter to the Pico (a 12” bazooka just squeezed in).

Today’s job is to prepare a snug fitting yoga mat around the Pico (to improve mash temperature stability and promote a more vigorous boil) and another one for the sparge pot.

And below is the recipe I found on here. Advice in the thread said to use Wyeast Ringwood 1187, and that should be arriving today. I have read that this is slow to start and possibly temperamental, so will treat it with great care.

I found a hop substitute table that showed Columbus as a substitute for Summit. I already have Columbus leaf hops (AA 17.1%) and will be using this instead of the Summit as the bittering hop.

When I post my brew day in the next few days I will post the adjusted figures and water treatment, probably based on a 20L batch size.

In the meantime if there are any words of wisdom I would be pleased to hear them.


5AF3EB58-7EEA-4A8A-A15D-B3CF89569399.jpeg
 
Regarding how much AML/CRS to use, check out the fact sheet on the Malt Miller page: https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/wp-...s-Alkalinity-Reducing-Solution-fact-sheet.pdf

The key bit is this table. Work out how much you want to reduce the alkalinity by, then find the appropriate column in the table and add that much AML/CRS, noting that the quantity is in ml/10L so scale up according to the volume of your brew.

Note also the amount it increases your Sulphate and Chloride levels. This means you have to add less of these using mineral salts which tend to bump your calcium up. That's why it's called "calcium reducing solution" - it doesn't really reduce the calcium in your water, it just means you have to add less calcium salts to achieve a given level of Sulphate and Chloride.
Screenshot 2021-10-06 at 10.38.42.png

That said, personally I just use Bru'n Water and play with the amount I need to add in order to hit the desired pH athumb..
 

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  • Ams-Alkalinity-Reducing-Solution-fact-sheet.pdf
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Regarding how much AML/CRS to use, check out the fact sheet on the Malt Miller page: https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/wp-...s-Alkalinity-Reducing-Solution-fact-sheet.pdf

Thanks, you kindly linked to that page before and I did look at it. I’m not sure what numbers “alkalinity” relates to - is that the CO3 or HCO3 number given? If so I have that for Ashbeck but it’s not given in the water analysis for my tap water that I posted above but now realise that it can’t be read on here. That just gives a ph value of 7.59 and a “total hardness“ of 25.

So I think (correct me if I’m wrong) that I want to reduce the ph of my water from 7.59 to 5.3-something, but I don’t know what that converts to in terms of the reduction numbers in the table.

I ran the Ashbeck numbers through the calculator. It has ph 6.2. The HCO3 number is 25. It comes up with additions for gypsum in the mash and then gypsum, table salt and Epsom salts in the water - but no CRS/AML. I assume that the gypsum must lower the ph? At least I know what to add to the Ashbeck tomorrow afternoon.

However when I use tap water next time, how do I get from ph 7.6 down to 5.3 ish using the numbers I have?

Sorry if I’m being dense. I had intended to read Strange Steve’s thread from first to last post whilst away but never got around to it. Along with all sorts of other things I intended to do, where did that three months go??!!
 
Will do before I start with tap water 👍

I did read the first few posts a while ago but it didn’t stick then, hopefully it will make more sense now!
 

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