Pimping my pot

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braziliain

Small Batch Brewer
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A little science project this afternoon...

I etched some volume markers into my 15L pot today, following one of the youtube electro etching vids. Felt like I was back at school :lol:

Last BIAB I did I came in under target but had to transfer everything via a measuring jug to work out volumes at each stage. Hopefully these 5L to 12L markers will help with that. :thumb:

I'd like to add a tap next so I can try to leave the hot and cold break in the pot when transferring to the FV. Bit scared of drilling my pot though. Anyone got any tips? :ugeek:

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slow and steady with the drill, ive seen a few issue when guys push the drill to hard and when the pilot drill goes through,the teeth on the cutter digs in and catches.its then difficult to cut the hole.
i removed my cutter and drilled with just the pilot drill first, then refitted the cutter and cut the hole.
 
A little science project this afternoon...

I etched some volume markers into my 15L pot today, following one of the youtube electro etching vids. Felt like I was back at school :lol:

Last BIAB I did I came in under target but had to transfer everything via a measuring jug to work out volumes at each stage. Hopefully these 5L to 12L markers will help with that. :thumb:

I'd like to add a tap next so I can try to leave the hot and cold break in the pot when transferring to the FV. Bit scared of drilling my pot though. Anyone got any tips? :ugeek:

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Look into getting a Qmax for cutting the hole. This was the advice I was given off here and it worked a treat.
Somewhere on jimsbeer kit theres a "how to" on cutting a hole with a qmax that is worth hunting for.
 
Tbh, I dont know a lot about this kind of thing but from what I've read here and other forums, is if you want to cut a hole in your pot (for a tap or whatever) a Q-max cutter is the way forward. Apparently it makes this kind of thing really simple (although I'm sure I could find some sort of way to feck thnigs up)
 
If anyone on here wants to pay the recorded postage each way, I'm happy to lend my Qmax cutters. They are definitely the way to go.


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That's a very kind offer. Let me read up and find that video, then I might just take you up on that.

I need to work out which tap to go for. There are so many variants of a 'ball valve'

Toolstation have this one for a fiver...
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p14624?table=no
 
I went for 1/2 BSP stainless from China via eBay. Worth the wait at the prices.


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Do you know what the bit is called that connects the valve to the pot?
I can find the valve and the hose tail, but not the other bit...
 
the bulkhead connection options for adding a valve include

1) off the shelf solution from the likes of the malt miller or angel homebrew ( a bit expensive)

2) a ��£3 15mm brass compression tank connector ( cheap n cheerful)

3) if you want SS but find the off the shelf ss bulkhead connectors a bit expensive you can source a 1/2" ss hex nipple or a parralell nipple and 1 or 2 lock nuts from bes.co.uk or ebay etc
and some M20 SS washers (ebay again)
then to aid the seal use ptfe wrapped around washers as well as threaded fittings , or diy silicone baking sheet cut soft washers, ive used both ;)

to cut a 20mm hole in SS the best option is a Qmax punch cutter, it punches out a nice clean hole but can cost ��£10+ pnp.. It also requires a 10mm pilot hole,(EDIT** and a 10mm allen key) this can be drilled with standard hss jobber bits and a standard electric drill if you 1 invest in a small tube of cutting/drilling paste
and start drilling a 3-4mm pilot hole and step up.

another option is a stepper drill bit, again cutting paste will help cool the cut and make it easier..
however as the hole opens up with each step the snag on the pot increases needing a very firm grip to keep hold. And the resulting hole will need attention from a file to clean up. and reapplication of cutting paste between steps is advisable.

me i would go qmax punch and ptfe sealed hex nipple and washer bulkhead ;)


here is a picture of thin SS drilled with a stepper drill not open to 2omm yet but you can see how rough the cut is..

10356079426_654a38c455.jpg


here is a pic of a hex nipple and ss washer diy bulkhead, inside there is a 2nd washer and locknut tightening the seal.

ptfe tape is wrapped around the body of the hex nipple till a m20 ss washer is a snug fit and needs a good shove to get to the hilt, then a diy washr from red silicon baking sheet is cut and used between the opt wall and outside washer..

9734420039_96969c8892.jpg
 
oh yes my #1 tip for lining up or orientating your tap correctly onto a bulkhead connector.

if tightening onto a brass tank connector you can always give it a bit more oomph/torque and bend the soft thread into position.. But if using a SS bulkhead that wont work as there is not enough give in the tougher SS and it will lock tight ;(

So ..

#1 mate the tap to the bulkhead counting the number of full revolutions it takes to do up till stop by hand.

#2 wrap a healthy wrap of ptfe tape around the bulkhead make thread and atatch the tap with a wrench tightening upto your prevoise count of turns -2 and then line up the tap (lever at top etc )
But Only tighten up, DONT UNDO, SS threads when meshing will shread the tape so any undoing will allow a leak.. if you overtighten either a) live with it, or b) undo unwrap rewrap and start again..
 
FiL's advice is spot on (I know from experience) but if it helps I got all my basic instruction from here http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hot-liquor-tank?page=4 but be warned, it's an addictive site.
BTW, the washers and silicone O rings they detail? I've got loads of them, many of them bought from Amazon USA before I discovered I could get them over here! :doh:
 
Personally I would get an expert to do it. That expert happens to be a friend of mine who owns a metal fabrication company.
 
Personally I would get an expert to do it. That expert happens to be a friend of mine who owns a metal fabrication company.

Brighton eh?? i may pop down with a few SS projects beyond my capacity one day, now i know,

yer my best pal ALE :thumb:

and i bet im not alone hehe you may regret that revelation..
 
Thanks for all the advice chaps, really appreciate it. Going to get the bits ordered :thumb:

I see on ebay there is a Chinese seller with ball valve, hose tail, bulkhead connector and bazooka screen for £22 delivered. All stainless. I don't think I could buy all the component parts and make a connector much cheaper than that.
 
just one thing you may want to consider, most of us rely on the siphon effect to minimise dead space in brewpots.

it can be beneficial to terminate your drain valve with a downward pointing elbow fitting before adding the a connecting part like a camlock or hosetail, depending on the valve mounting height up the pot wall this can be sufficient to create the external aspect for the siphon effect without adding extra hose ;) just a thought..
 
Brighton eh?? i may pop down with a few SS projects beyond my capacity one day, now i know,

yer my best pal ALE :thumb:

and i bet im not alone hehe you may regret that revelation..

I think you mis-read what I wrote. He would probably do it for me for free, but not for someone he doesnt know. He might even charge me as he owns the company but does not do the work himself.

I dont know where you are but it would probably be cheaper to ask a local metal worker to cut it if youre not able to than pay petrol to drive somewhere.
 
If you're capable of driving to a metal worker you're capable of cutting a hole with a Qmax. They are an absolute doddle to use.


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Well it's over a year on from this post and life got in the way! However, all the shiny stainless arrived this morning so will be attempting at the weekend once my qmax cutter arrives and I have re-read all Fils advice a few times!

Have ordered a new 20L pot too so I can increase my batch size a little.

Pics to follow :)
 
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