Plastic beer kegs safe working pressures

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hedgerowpete

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I own two types of plastic beer barrels a Younges style and a King keg.

does anyone know there safe working pressures?

the king keg is a lot sturdier than the youngs.

I know 10 psi is my target for carbonation in either, but wanted to know what is there safe working pressures

I always find that the tap is the weakest point and weeps from there at times of increased pressure
 
I own two types of plastic beer barrels a Younges style and a King keg.

does anyone know there safe working pressures?

the king keg is a lot sturdier than the youngs.

I know 10 psi is my target for carbonation in either, but wanted to know what is there safe working pressures

I always find that the tap is the weakest point and weeps from there at times of increased pressure
try using gas regulater similar to welding regulator and adjustable
 
I have had basic Youngs PBs (2" top opening) and they are stamped with 'Max Working Pressure 15 psi'. My guess is that the rubber band RV discharges not too soon after that (if you are lucky). I think you are wise to limit your WP to 10psig since they do flex quite a lot under pressure and sooner or later something is likely to give (as happened to 3 of the 4 I owned in spite of me limiting the internal pressure)
 
I have had a number of dripping taps over the years and decided that the most reliable were this type ...

https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Bin_Fermenter_tap.html

Whilst searching for the type of taps that I use, I discovered these ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cettkowns-...tic+beer+taps+for+kegs&qid=1581362066&sr=8-28

... and thought "Yes! The answer to leaving a barrel tap unused for a week or so. A quick spray of StarSan, stick it up the tap and 'Bingo' no worries about infections, creepy-crawlies or flying insects!"
 
to be honest i had really liked the idea of a metal tap to one of the barrels as a trial unit

I have a massive budget of £20, i know shed loads of cash, i brought a new set of seals for the lid and the s30 valve which i refurbished and acid cleaned the gunk out. its just the tap i want to refurb, but i was also going to add a car tyre valve and pressure gauge, so i can truely see whats going on in there pressure wise, my only concern was just exactly how much to pressurise the barrel too, i was told to aim at 10psi for ales, but higher for pils and largers. but did not want to seal it proper and make a pressure bomb at home

If after spending this fortune i dont get where i want to be its off to keg land for an even bigger fortune to spend
 
to be honest i had really liked the idea of a metal tap to one of the barrels as a trial unit
I have a massive budget of £20, i know shed loads of cash, i brought a new set of seals for the lid and the s30 valve which i refurbished and acid cleaned the gunk out. its just the tap i want to refurb, but i was also going to add a car tyre valve and pressure gauge, so i can truely see whats going on in there pressure wise, my only concern was just exactly how much to pressurise the barrel too, i was told to aim at 10psi for ales, but higher for pils and largers. but did not want to seal it proper and make a pressure bomb at home
If after spending this fortune i dont get where i want to be its off to keg land for an even bigger fortune to spend
My advice to you is to replace the tap if it is faulty and leave it at that, and save your money for other things. Although folks do modify these PBs by adding stuff I don't think its wise. You have no idea how it has affected the pressure retaining integrity of the PB. Plus if you add 90g priming sugar to your beer at the outset it gives more than enough pressure to dispense beer within the PB limits; I have in the past nearly emptied PBs on this charge alone without a top up. You don't need to know the internal pressure, your guide is how the beer is dispensed, too much pressure and it's foam and not beer in your glass, and that point is reached before you reach the PB pressure limit. And plastic PBs are not the most reliable of brewing kit. I have had four Youngs PBs and three failed within two years of purchase due to pinhole leaks and splits in the shell and won't be replaced. I even had a cap split, and I was very careful in how I used my PBs.
 
I used one of these ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sourcingma...nless+steel+tyre+valve&qid=1581418559&sr=8-23

... in each of the PB caps as per the photograph ...

PB with CO2.jpg


... and pressurise the PB's via the modified bike pump from my normal Sodastream CO2 supply ...

IMG_1579.jpg


Enjoy.
 
I have had a number of dripping taps over the years and decided that the most reliable were this type ...

https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Bin_Fermenter_tap.html

Whilst searching for the type of taps that I use, I discovered these ...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cettkowns-...tic+beer+taps+for+kegs&qid=1581362066&sr=8-28

...

Agreed. These are far and away the best type of tap. The barrel-type taps are also reliable but difficult to contect anything to them.

I still have half a dozen Boots 40 pint pressure kegs and they're brilliant. yes they are stamped "maximum working pressure 15 psi". As they are more robust than the Wilco kegs I would say it depends on the brand.
 
I have had a number of dripping taps over the years and decided that the most reliable were this type ...

https://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Bin_Fermenter_tap.html
Does the tap body thread fit comfortably with the reducing tap thread on a PB with a 2" cap, and importantly adequately seal?
If not they will not work with a 2" cap PB (like Youngs PBs) since the method of fitting is different to a 4" cap PB where you can get your hand inside to insert and tighten up the backing nut onto the tap body (at least that is my recollection from the tap openings on PBs with 4" tap openings which I had 30 odd years ago).
 
Does the tap body thread fit comfortably with the reducing tap thread .......

The "reducing tap thread" reminded me of something that I have been intending to Post for ages with regard to the use of Telfon Tape to seal a "reducing thread".

Please make sure that on ANY reducing thread, the Teflon Tape used to seal the thread is used sparingly.

Too much tape on a reducing thread can result in the appliance (be it a tap, a plug or anything else) blowing out when it comes under pressure and/or heat. If you think about it, it will become obvious as to why this may happen.
 
The "reducing tap thread" reminded me of something that I have been intending to Post for ages with regard to the use of Telfon Tape to seal a "reducing thread".

Please make sure that on ANY reducing thread, the Teflon Tape used to seal the thread is used sparingly.

Too much tape on a reducing thread can result in the appliance (be it a tap, a plug or anything else) blowing out when it comes under pressure and/or heat. If you think about it, it will become obvious as to why this may happen.
Fine.
But does the tap you recommended fit the reducing thread, which was my question?
 
I have a Young's 5 gallon plastic keg with the 2" cap. How long would you normally expect to get out of one of the 8g co2 cartridges? I used one last night, and 4 pints later the keg was sucking air back through the tap. Is that normal?
 
I have a Young's 5 gallon plastic keg with the 2" cap. How long would you normally expect to get out of one of the 8g co2 cartridges? I used one last night, and 4 pints later the keg was sucking air back through the tap. Is that normal?

Having sorted all my leaks out. ( a must!). My last brew in King keg used one 8gm and one 12gm of Co2 for the 5 gallons. That was first time I had used the 12gm bulb, better bang per buck.
 
I took the cap off and found that the white sealing washer wasn't seated correctly between the cap and the neck, despite lubricating it it had slipped off the neck as I tightened the cap.
 

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