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Beer Brewing Talk
General Beer Brewing Discussion
Priming a cask...
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<blockquote data-quote="peebee" data-source="post: 1071075" data-attributes="member: 7632"><p>Ah, but in the OP the author is describing himself as a "noob" ... or I take this to mean "make it easy"! What you describes with "I usually find" and "I usually have" doesn't suggest "easy"!</p><p></p><p>I too use a needle valve to vent over-pressure. But have a "bubble counter" attached to easily see and regulate the speed, i.e. if you can't count the bubbles the beer is venting too fast. If the regulators are fixed into a "permanent" installation, the needle valves can be fixed too allowing adhoc venting anytime (I don't trust "spunding" valves and don't believe they work at such low pressures):</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]53699[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>A regulator on "cask beer"? My philosophy is use soft spiles if drinking the entire cask in 2 or 3 <em>days</em>, use "breathers" (zero psi(g) regulators) if drinking in 2 to 3 <em>weeks</em>, and use LPG regulators (1/2 to 2 psi(g)) if taking longer than 3 weeks to drink. As it always takes me more than 3 weeks to drink a 20L "cask" (okay, they're Corny kegs, but strictly speaking they aren't kegs either) then I always use LPG regulators for home-brew.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>BTW, I use 2 bar gauges (like in piccie) to monitor cask pressure (they're cheap!). But it is inconvenient measuring 1-2psi with a 30psi full-scale-deflection gauge. Someone pointed out you <em>can</em> get relatively cheap low pressure gauges: They are for replacing gauges in blood-pressure machines. Must try them soon.</p><p></p><p>[EDIT: Blood pressure gauges read "mm of mercury" or mmHg. Dead easy to convert in your head! Roughly divide by 100 -- shift decimal point left two places -- and double it. So 100mmHg -> 1 -> 2psi. If you must have it precise (yawn) ... 51.7mmHg (at 0C) = 1psi.]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebee, post: 1071075, member: 7632"] Ah, but in the OP the author is describing himself as a "noob" ... or I take this to mean "make it easy"! What you describes with "I usually find" and "I usually have" doesn't suggest "easy"! I too use a needle valve to vent over-pressure. But have a "bubble counter" attached to easily see and regulate the speed, i.e. if you can't count the bubbles the beer is venting too fast. If the regulators are fixed into a "permanent" installation, the needle valves can be fixed too allowing adhoc venting anytime (I don't trust "spunding" valves and don't believe they work at such low pressures): [ATTACH type="full" alt="20191108_200206.jpg"]53699[/ATTACH] A regulator on "cask beer"? My philosophy is use soft spiles if drinking the entire cask in 2 or 3 [I]days[/I], use "breathers" (zero psi(g) regulators) if drinking in 2 to 3 [I]weeks[/I], and use LPG regulators (1/2 to 2 psi(g)) if taking longer than 3 weeks to drink. As it always takes me more than 3 weeks to drink a 20L "cask" (okay, they're Corny kegs, but strictly speaking they aren't kegs either) then I always use LPG regulators for home-brew. BTW, I use 2 bar gauges (like in piccie) to monitor cask pressure (they're cheap!). But it is inconvenient measuring 1-2psi with a 30psi full-scale-deflection gauge. Someone pointed out you [I]can[/I] get relatively cheap low pressure gauges: They are for replacing gauges in blood-pressure machines. Must try them soon. [EDIT: Blood pressure gauges read "mm of mercury" or mmHg. Dead easy to convert in your head! Roughly divide by 100 -- shift decimal point left two places -- and double it. So 100mmHg -> 1 -> 2psi. If you must have it precise (yawn) ... 51.7mmHg (at 0C) = 1psi.] [/QUOTE]
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Priming a cask...
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