Solenoid Valves / DIY Autosparge System

[ppsmith]

Bit of a long shot, but does anybody have experience of using solenoid valves in their brewing setup?

I'm currently planning on building an autosparge system using a float switch to detect the water level in the mash tun and a solenoid valve to interrupt the water flow from the HLT when the level is a few cm above the grain bed. The problem I have is that the solenoid I have (and all the reasonably priced ones I can find) are only rated to 55°C while I usually sparge at 74°C

Given I've ordered the float switch already I'm tempted to run with it and see how long it is before the valve fails, but if anybody has any experience of these kind of parts I'd welcome your thoughts.

The other option is to use the sensor to power on/off the pump using a relay or SSR but that feels like it would put more stress on the pump if it's switching in and out repeatedly (even with a delay-off circuit to overfill the tun after the fill level is reached to prevent rapid power cycling).

What do we think - is this going to work, or am I going to end up in hot water? (pun intended)

 

[Buffers brewery]

Being a lover of all things complicated providing you select an appropriate solenoid valve I can’t see why it shouldn’t work. My kettle/HLT has a ball valve fitted so just gets turned off when the mash tun is “full”

 

[RoomWithABrew]

I had this suggested to me as a way to control liquid level with a pump.

Not tried it but recommended by MHB on aussie forum.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...#79&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22%3A%2223416%22%7D

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Bit of a long shot, but does anybody have experience of using solenoid valves in their brewing setup?

I'm currently planning on building an autosparge system using a float switch to detect the water level in the mash tun and a solenoid valve to interrupt the water flow from the HLT when the level is a few cm above the grain bed. The problem I have is that the solenoid I have (and all the reasonably priced ones I can find) are only rated to 55°C while I usually sparge at 74°C

Given I've ordered the float switch already I'm tempted to run with it and see how long it is before the valve fails, but if anybody has any experience of these kind of parts I'd welcome your thoughts.

The other option is to use the sensor to power on/off the pump using a relay or SSR but that feels like it would put more stress on the pump if it's switching in and out repeatedly (even with a delay-off circuit to overfill the tun after the fill level is reached to prevent rapid power cycling).

What do we think - is this going to work, or am I going to end up in hot water? (pun intended)

This one is cheap and the spec. says it will handle 100C. 12V, £5.60, free postage. The spec might be wrong of course but for the price you might take a chance?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393310949071?hash=item5b9328cecf:g:PVoAAOSwB1JgmQ~p&var=662195884850

 

[ppsmith]

Being a lover of all things complicated providing you select an appropriate solenoid valve I can’t see why it shouldn’t work. My kettle/HLT has a ball valve fitted so just gets turned off when the mash tun is “full”

Yeah, that would also do it. How is that adjusted for different mash volumes? If you could take a pic or point me at the product page for it that would be appreciated.

My thinking with the float switch is that it can be raised or lowered into the tun to set the level a few cm above the top of the grain no matter the volume or grain being mashed.

I had this suggested to me as a way to control liquid level with a pump.

Not tried it but recommended by MHB on aussie forum.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...#79&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22%3A%2223416%22%7D

Ah, so that one is using a relay to control the pump rather than a solenoid to control the flow. That's reassuring actually - I think I'll try that first rather than subject the solenoid I've got to higher temps than it's rated for.

This one is cheap and the spec. says it will handle 100C. 12V, £5.60, free postage. The spec might be wrong of course but for the price you might take a chance?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393310949071?hash=item5b9328cecf:g:PVoAAOSwB1JgmQ~p&var=662195884850

Not sure how I missed that. Not a bad price at all, that's now the backup plan if the relay control system doesn't work properly. Thanks for the pointer

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Could just fit a switch to the ball valve and clamp the ball valve to the side of the kettle, use a low voltage ciruit.

 

[ppsmith]

Could just fit a switch to the ball valve and clamp the ball valve to the side of the kettle, use a low voltage ciruit.

That's effectively what the float switch is - a floaty bit with a low voltage magnetic reed switch inside it

I've gone for the version with a 30cm shaft so it can be secured to the lid with the switch at any depth within the tun.

 

[Buffers brewery]

This is an old pic of my kettle. I don’t have an elbow fitted to the tap any more.

I fill the pot with all my brew water, 8 gallons, and treat with campden tablet. I then move 5 gallons to an empty fermentation bucket and heat the remaining to strike temperature and transfer it all to the mash tun. My grain bills tend to be 4-5kg and I’ve found 3 gallons suits my process. I prefer the mash to be on the loose side as it makes recirculation easier. My Brewhouse efficiency nudges 80% consistently. The remaining 5 gallons is returned to the pot for 2 subsequent 30 minute mashes.