Stainless Steel kettle element?

Discussion in 'General Beer Brewing Equipment Discussion' started by simonind, May 16, 2018.

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  1. May 16, 2018 #1

    simonind

    simonind

    simonind

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    Having done 4 successful BIAB brews with a modified Youngs fermenting bucket, 2 x 1.5kw chinese kettle elements and a tap I'm thinking I'd like to upgrade and get a larger volume vessel to give me 23l in the fermenter - currently I risk boiling over if I start the boil at 27l which is roughly where I need to be to end up with 23l.

    I'm looking at Aluminium (easier to drill) and Stainless stockpots but as far as the element(s) go, should I be worried about whether it's stainless? The ones I have I'm pretty sure aren't and I don't think the PECO 2.4kw one is, but you can get stainless so is it something I should consider?

    Cheers
    Simon
     
  2. May 17, 2018 #2

    Fil

    Fil

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    If you have the same 1.5kw elements i used, (lil red placky backing shroud) they are SS and will probably outlast any peco element options.. so hang on to em, perhaps add a 3rd if you need extra oomph.

    as for boil pots, the thin ss used for stock pots (especially the bargain 'bergland' brewers favorites from ebay.fr) is no trouble for bog standard hss drill bits, just start small 2-3mm and step up a mm or 2 at a time ;) and if you pan pierce the skin with a sharp punch you make it way easier too.

    Use a qmax punch for the element and tap holes, so you only need to open up a 8-10mm hole with a drill for the punch screw. dont even consider a holesaw unless your a pro..
     
  3. May 17, 2018 #3

    Cwrw666

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    I've got a 30L boiler which has the same problem. I just make a more concentrated wort, ie. use the same amounts of ingredients for less water. Then after transferring to the FV top it up with boiled water. It works perfectly.
     
  4. May 17, 2018 #4

    simonind

    simonind

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  5. May 17, 2018 #5

    simon12

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    Any kettle elements should be fine as are copper immersion elements what you don't want are ones that are coated as the coating comes off when cleaning. 33L plastic buckets are ideal and cheap for the volume you want.
     
  6. May 17, 2018 #6

    -Bezza-

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    Interesting - I had understood that copper shouldn't be in contact with wort for extended periods of time as the acidic nature will corrode copper. Different for copper immersion chillers as they are only in the wort for half an hour at a time.

    Back to the OP - you shouldn't have too many issues in getting through the side of a SS pan with a Q-max cutter (see video below). If it's the choice between stainless steel and any other metal, I'd go for stainless steel every time, even if it is a little more expensive to start.

    Incidentally, I was looking on Amazon for a stainless steel ball valve tap. Someone has posted a negative review for one because the tap was advertised as 304 but they had been sent 316 instead.

     
  7. May 17, 2018 #7

    simon12

    simon12

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    Boilers used to be made from copper and called coppers, you don't want copper in contact with wort during or post fermentation but I can't remember why.
     
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  8. May 17, 2018 #8

    Gerryjo

    Gerryjo

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    I would take arm and all getting 316 over 304....

    Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
     
  9. May 17, 2018 #9

    -Bezza-

    -Bezza-

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    The review went on to say how he sent it back, neatly wrapped up with a "buyer beware".
     
  10. May 22, 2018 #10

    Gerryjo

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    a bit of research would have done him the power of good...
     
  11. May 22, 2018 #11

    Druncan

    Druncan

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    Might also be worth considering SS Triclad base pots with a Buffalo 3kw? Ours works flat out in the restaurant broiling lobsters and veggies then heating my brews when I get a day off. I use a 15l Pressure cooker (for hops, extract) and got a lovely BrewBuilder 50l SS ind compatible pot for my BIABs It all is so compact and reliable. Very pleased.
     
  12. May 22, 2018 #12

    Druncan

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