Mine seems fine just a slight concern with condensation. Can you see anything glaringly wrong ?Introduction
Does the world really need another kegerator build blog...?
Probably not. But the idea with this one is to make it specific: what model of fridge, where precisely to drill the holes, etc.
Here's what I aim to build:
I'll say upfront that the objective is not to be cheap and cheerful. That doesn't mean I'll be splurging money for the heck of it, but equally I won't be cutting corners at the expense of quality.
- a kegerator based on a brand new, cheapish, widely available (in the UK) under-counter fridge;
- with room for a minimum of two new-style 19L AEB cornies;
- and with a two-tap font (tower) mounted on the top.
Also some of the design will be a bit geeky for many people (e.g. I'll be building a custom temperature controller) but I hope you'll be able to adapt what I do to meet your own preferences, like using an InkBird or similar. If you do that or use different components then please share via the comments so other people can benefit from what you've done
Hacking the fridge
I'm using a Curry's "Essentials" CUL55W20 larder fridge which I bought new online for £150 plus £10 delivery.
You can read more about it including the internal dimensions in my other thread.
First job was to remove the packing tape and all the internal shelves and door cubbies. They look useful though so I'll keep them for now.
Second job was to remove the thermostat/light module - otherwise there isn't room for two kegs.
It comes off pretty easily, but there's a couple of small winkles.
View attachment 54393
- Before starting unplug the fridge from the mains and make sure you are wearing a hard hat, gloves, snow shoes and shark repellent.
- The module is held in by two pozi drive screws. The first is directly accessible but to get at the second you have to remove the clear plastic cover over the light. To do that, get your thumb under the small grip on the lower part of the clear cover (arrowed), ease it down and hinge the cover open and off.
View attachment 54394
- Gently pull the module clear to reveal the wiring:
View attachment 54395
- Carefully pull off the spade connectors using long-nosed pliers, then slide the light out of the mounting grooves. Finally pull the thermostat sensor out of the clear plastic tube at the back of the cavity.
- You should be left with something like this:
The wires are as follows:
BROWN: 240v mains from the plug
RED: mains feed to the compressor
ORANGE: mains feed to the internal light
BLUE and YELLOW: connections to the light
GREEN/YELLOW: safety earth
Tuck the wires away, then you should be able to fit in two kegs like this:
View attachment 54396
To be continued...
How are you bringing in the wire for the temperature sensor? I'f you're feeding it through the door seal then you'll need to be very careful not to leave a gap otherwise you'll get a lot of condensation.Mine seems fine just a slight concern with condensation. Can you see anything glaringly wrong ?
You will easily find the type that is a 3/8 to 3/16 'stem reducer' - this means it will plug straight into whatever you have the 3/8 line connected to. For gas-in, you can safely use 3/16" for the whole run without any reduction in flow rate.Yes it’s gas in. That’s a good idea I’ll look into it. What John guest fittings are available for this?
Especially after a few beers
That's a remarkable display, but then again, remarkable seems apt for an awful lot you post here with your build exploits!
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