It's probably just my inexperience but I've never read before about adding the hops as a hop tea at the priming stage - it makes so much sense though. Do you get about the same flavouring as dry hopping, or does the heating to make the tea alter it to provide extra bitterness by using hops at this stage?Fermentation finished a week ago. FG 1.014 brings it in at just over the 6% ABV mark. Cold crashed with the fridge set at 4C for a week then transferred to my King Keg. Made a priming solution with 5 ounces of sugar in one and a half pints of hop tea made with 30 grams of Cascade hops, in a hop bag, steeped in water at 75C for 30 minutes. Purged the barrel head space with CO2 before tightening the lid down and giving it a 5 p.s.i. shot of CO2 before returning it to the fridge set at 20C. Two days in and no signs of life from the yeasty beasties so just leaving it alone.
Hi Anna. It’s my first time .....at hop tea that is. I’ve tried dry hopping a couple of times but didn’t like the results (probably me). So thought I’d give the tea a try. Will add to this post the outcome, good or bad, in about 4 weeks.It's probably just my inexperience but I've never read before about adding the hops as a hop tea at the priming stage - it makes so much sense though. Do you get about the same flavouring as dry hopping, or does the heating to make the tea alter it to provide extra bitterness by using hops at this stage?
I love it. Though it makes my BIAB look positively stone age.Mashing/Sparging Abbey beer recipe today.
4kg pale malt
0.9 kg Vienna malt
0.4 kg Biscuit malt
Pearle 30 grms for 60 minutes
Stryrian Golding 20 grms for 5 minutes
Wyeast Belgian Abbey style Ale yeast
So today it’s time to transfer my Abbey beer to a King Keg. It finished fermentation 6 days ago so has been cold crashing at 4C until today. Usually I just prime a KK with 100 grms of white sugar in 200 mls of water (brought to the boil and cooled) but today I decided to have a go at “Closed Transfer”.
I have to say it went pretty well. I hadn’t worked out how to get the priming sugar in so had to do that the old way, compromising my closed transfer, but I’ve already worked out how to do that for next time.
The pressure gauge is mounted on a Tee piece together with the pressure relief valve, both are effectively “dead ends” at pressures below 15 p.s.i. My theory is that the water in the barrel will compress the air trapped in the Tee piece assembly but will act like a bubble and stop the water penetrating into the gubbins of the gauge and relief valve. I have submerged gauges in water when doing leak testing and the only bit that appeared to be adversely effected was the two screws that secure the cover. They’re painted steel screws so rust where the paint is chippedThat's an excellent video. Crystal clear photography and explanations of the process. One thing I don't understand is how you prevent the water in the keg from going into your pressure gauge when you're pumping it out with the co2. Or can the pressure gauge cope with both air and liquid?
I'm sure that's correct. I did find with a similar setup on my central heating system though, that over long periods (months) the water absorbs the gas and you get water in the gauge, which can eventually corrode and destroy the thin-walled curved tube inside it. However, I doubt you'd be keeping a keg filled for so long as this to become a problem :-)the air trapped in the Tee piece assembly but will act like a bubble and stop the water penetrating
An alternative would be to use one of these T pieces with 2 caps attachedSo I think I’ve fixed the priming sugar gaff from yesterday’s maiden closed transfer.
View attachment 35329
Drilled the lid of a 1 pint milk bottle and fitted a liquid out post.
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Cut the bottom out of said milk bottle so it can be used as a funnel.
The procedure would be to connect the transfer hose to the FV tap (tap turned OFF at this stage) and connect the bottle top to the hose quick connect. Milk bottle is screwed on to the top. While holding the priming bottle (a.k.a. milk bottle) above the level of the beer in the FV turn the FV tap ON. Beer will flow into the tube. Lower the priming bottle slowly to allow beer to enter the bottle top then add priming solution. Slowly raise the priming bottle until all the priming solution has drained into the transfer hose and disconnect the bottle. The hose should now be full of priming solution/beer and can be connected to the beer post on the keg for transfer.
COR that looks good! Nice work sir