The Homebrew Twang experiment.

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terrym

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I also used to use an extract called "Brecon Malt" which definitely had a twang, but it was malt extract for baking rather than specifically for brewing and it gave the house beer a particular "character" in the day.
I did wonder about that yesterday when looking through the '25kg LME' thread. The number of homebrewers who buy 25kg LME must be quite limited. Far more likely that these 25kg drums of LME are for the catering trade and not homebrewers. And even if there are a few commercial brewers who top up the grain bill with LME (do they still do this) any traces of twang would likely be lost or they wouldnt be using LME.
 

micklupulo

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AA there might well be something in this boil or no boil scenario. I remember back in the 80's I used to boil kits. However what is the difference between LME and a kit which has non hopped LME like Youngs AIPA. When I make an extract brew I never boil the LME only the hops in some DME for about 45 minutes. I steep grains for 45 minutes at 67C. Of three brews I made with this method a stout was fine but a Cwtch and Californian Common were undrinkable due to twang. I know more questions than answers but we need a multi variable experiment to sort it out.
I have and old printout in my brewing file headed Basic Guide to Brewing Kit Beers off www.homebrewing.org.uk/beer/uk-homebrewing-list/site/kits/kitbasic.htm with reference to boiling kits which states that adding cold water to wort that has just boiled is " the simplest way to ruin your beer and is how most off flavours in beer kits arise." He advises that the wort should be allowed to cool to room temperature before any cold water is added. That would perhaps make the resultant wort a little cool for fermentation though. It is academic to me as I do not boil kits but thought it might give the chemists among you something to debate!
 

terrym

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I made up a 10 litre batch AG Pedigree clone based on a recipe I found and sampled it after 10 days in bottle yesterday. I have to say since returning to brewing and over 100 different beers from stouts to lagers, from kits, extract brews, partial mashes and AG this is the first time I have noticed a definite twang (although a few of the Muntons kits I did early on came close to it). Although the beer had only had 10 days in bottle, it was fully carbed after about 6 days, and had had a little conditioning in a cool place. However I have sampled other beers this early before and not noticed anything as bad as this. In fact another beer I have carbing at present is actually very very drinkable since I am testing out a minikeg and sampling along the way ;). Anyway I think the culprit was the 25g chocolate malt that was in the recipe (presumably for colour) which I nearly reduced on brewday, although I have used it in other beers without it coming across as 'bad'. So after all that I won't be opening another now for at least six weeks to see if the dreaded twang disappears. But it did get me wondering whether chocolate malt goes into darker LME which I believe is normally the main culprit for homebrew twang.
 

Charles2020

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Hi guys, years ago I tried several kits, without exception they all had a classic “home brew” taste. I then did a full mash brew, same temperature control etc. and the result was exactly like a real ale from the pub, excellent and no “home brew” taste whatsoever. Perhaps no surprise as I’d just done what a brewery does, but on a very small scale.
My question is, can you brew a beer nowadays from a kit without it having that “home brew” taste?
Thanks, Charles
 

samale

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There are loads of threads debating the issue this one is the latest.
 
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Graz

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I only brew kits, I don't really experience the "twang" now days and haven't for a long time but that's not to say I haven't had the odd one that's been off the mark but all still drinkable.

I put this down to a number of things:
  1. I only brew premium kits i.e. at least 3kg of malt / two cans, no additional sugar unless supplied as part of the kit.
  2. Temperature control - I use brew fridges so everything I make is kept at a constant 20°C unless the yeast in use dictates otherwise. No sticking it in a warm room and hoping for the best.
  3. I now serve my beer chilled from Cornelius kegs. This has been a recent upgrade and I now force carbonate rather that secondary ferment but I think it gives a "cleaner" end product.
  4. It may be none of the above and I'm just really lucky that we have good water here.
As above this has been discussed a lot and many folk have different outcomes and opinions.
 

trummy

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Just bottled 2 kits, Richies Exmoor Stag and Summer Gold (or similar named) and reading the above I may have a problem! I usually brew in May and September as I can keep the brew at around 20 deg C, but due to the lockdown I have done these extras. At the height of the heat wave they just about maxed out at 25 Deg whilst brewing - warmer than usual. Due to circumstances it was 3 weeks before the first barrel was bottled and four weeks before the second (from the point the yeast was added )
It will be interesting to see how they turn out. I seem to have broken a lot of 'do nots' -I am not aware of any 'twangs' over the last few years of brewing. I treat tap water the day before with a campden tablet and do not use a secondary FV, actually brewing in the barrel. - I will report back when I try these two brews
 

TrevT

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I had the twang in every kit I made. I switched to using cheap spring water instead of tap water in the last two kits I brewed. Both came out superb with no twang at all. The yeast reacts badly with the chlorine in the tap water and causes the twang.
 
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