This 2 + 2 + 2 Carbonating Issue Needs Clearing Up

Discussion in 'General Beer Brewing Discussion' started by johnnyboy1965, Dec 14, 2017.

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  1. Dec 14, 2017 #1

    johnnyboy1965

    johnnyboy1965

    johnnyboy1965

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    Right you have brewed your beer and you have checked, using your hydrometer, that it is as low as it will go. This might take 1,2 or 3 weeks.
    Next stage...Bottling/ kegging...not cornies.
    Prime your bottles/keg, with the appropriate ammount of sugar. I really recommend Brewers Sugar.
    Then you must keep the bottles/keg in a WARM place for 2 weeks, it has got to go through the whole fermentation process again.....yeast consuming sugar to produce C02, which will carb your brew.
    Only now can you move to a cooler place to condition. This will take as long as it takes. When its clear, its ready to drink.
    If you try to rush any stage your beer will not be as good as it could have been.
    HTH
     
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  2. Dec 14, 2017 #2

    _jon_

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    What's wrong with going straight from a FV to a cornie, carbing with C02 and then conditioning after that? Other have suggested that this method is acceptable. What is your reason for saying it's not so?
     
  3. Dec 14, 2017 #3

    peebee

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    I guess as this is under "General Beer Brewing Discussion" you ("johnnyboy1965") are not asking a question but making a statement to either help people or cause an argument?

    Careful. 2+2+2 is just a guide to help people get under way with their new hobby. Because it's a good guide many experienced brewers stick with it. But it is just a guide. If it's not followed it doesn't mean you are making poor beer!

    I might follow the 2+2+2 guide for making some of my cask bitters. But I'd be talking days, not weeks! Left for six weeks these beers would be well past it, not coming to prime condition!
     
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  4. Dec 14, 2017 #4

    dad_of_jon

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    A good post to help stop the kit instructions leading to people trying their hand, thinking uggh this is crap never to return.

    all the kit makes need to say is 'ready to drink in 10 days, but it will be a lot better if you follow the homebrew forums 2+2+2 rule of thumb.

    perhaps the kit makers and our forum are missing a trick. If the site owner allowed them to reference this site or a thread on how to make your kits brews the best there's be revenue plus happy kit brewers. Some would be lost to AG but there could equally be a lot of repeat kit sales :thumb:
     
  5. Dec 14, 2017 #5

    johnnyboy1965

    johnnyboy1965

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    Because your brew is not a the "crysta" stage. If you put "cloudy beer into a Corny, you will only get cloudy beer out
     
  6. Dec 14, 2017 #6

    johnnyboy1965

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    It is a statement and a fact. If you ferment for 2 weeks
     
  7. Dec 14, 2017 #7

    Brett74

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    So beer doesn't clear in a Corny when it's in the fridge? Mine do...
     
  8. Dec 14, 2017 #8

    johnnyboy1965

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    When its in a fridge all the suspended yeast will settle to the bottom, given time. Are your beers "Crystal"
    How far does the spear reach to the bottom of your corny?
     
  9. Dec 14, 2017 #9

    _jon_

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    I've seen beer clear in a cornie. I did an extract chinook IPA recently (before I started botching AG brews), and after 2 weeks in the kegerator it was lovely and clear! It wasn't at the start.

    Not clear at the start, clear after 2 weeks... must be magic. :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: :whistle: :whistle: :whistle:
     
  10. Dec 14, 2017 #10

    johnnyboy1965

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    JFC a corny is only a piece of kit to dispense a brew. It will not make your HB any better. What goes in, comes out
     
  11. Dec 14, 2017 #11

    _jon_

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    Same can be said for a FV, a Pressure Barrel, AND a cornie?

    My cornies have a inverse domed bottom, and the spear reaches the bottom.. yes. But when I pour my beers, and I start to hear it pulling from the bottom, I see the sediment come into the glass.. I stop, pour the (usually half a pint) away, and accept that this keg is now empty.

    What's the different between conditioning in a cornie and conditioning in a stainless FV? Nothing right? What goes in, comes out... as you say!
     
  12. Dec 14, 2017 #12

    johnnyboy1965

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    The whole concept of a Corny keg, is that it is only a dispencing (major sp) verssel, not a conditioning vessel
     
  13. Dec 14, 2017 #13

    Bigcol49

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    Hi!
    Based upon posts I've read on other homebrewing forums, many US homebrewers use their Cornies as conditioning tanks.
     
  14. Dec 14, 2017 #14

    johnnyboy1965

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    You can use a corny as a conditioning vessel, but you have to wait until your brew has cleared,,, why wait, it is not needed
     
  15. Dec 14, 2017 #15

    peebee

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    "A fact"? Okay, that answers my question.

    Enjoy your argument ...
     
  16. Dec 14, 2017 #16

    dan125

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    You absolutely can go straight from the FV to the cornie, and avoid oxygenating and possible contamination tranfering to a 2nd vessel - it helps if you cold crash the beer first to get as much out of suspension as possible.
    Beer does clear in a cornie - i'll be trying my latest batch for the 1st time at the w/e - 3 weeks from brewday and it will probably have a bit of a haze, but by 4 weeks it will be cystal and probably at about its best as a hoppy brew.
     
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  17. Dec 14, 2017 #17

    johnnyboy1965

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    How the fuick do you think think that putting your brew into a Corny will make it taste any better. No it wont
     
  18. Dec 14, 2017 #18

    johnnyboy1965

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    If you put **** into a Corny/PV/ bottle.you will only get **** out
     
  19. Dec 14, 2017 #19

    peebee

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    Don't stop there. I'm on another thread regarding "spunding valves". And using a Corny as the FV.

    Boiler to dispensing vessel, and perhaps no other vessels in between.
     
  20. Dec 14, 2017 #20

    _jon_

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    That's the whole idea of a uni-tank, right? :)
     

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