Thoughts on my first IPA recipe?

[RenegadeSnare]

Hello,

I am attempting my first IPA homebrew using the BIAG method. I would love some feedback on my proposed recipe & hop schedule. Thanks in advance!

Looking to make a 5 gallon batch:

MASH:
1KG Marris Otter Pale Malt
4KG 2 row malt

Hops/Boil
I have simcoe and cascade in leaf and citra & magnum in pellet.
so:

60 mins: 10 grams of Magnum
15 mins: 15G of cascade, simcoe & citra
5 mins: 20 grams of cascade, simcoe and citra
Flameout: 10 grams of simcoe and cascade
Dry Hopping about 70grams of simcoe and cascade for 3/4 days

Any feedback is really appreciated!

 

[RichardM]

Looks good to me but I'm not an expert on hop schedules.
Why the two different malts? What yeast are you going to use? What IBU and ABV are you expecting?

 

[MyQul]

You could use Marris Otter but it may be to malty for what your after. A plain 'pale malt' may suit your tastes (and an IPA) better

 

[RenegadeSnare]

Looks good to me but I'm not an expert on hop schedules.
Why the two different malts? What yeast are you going to use? What IBU and ABV are you expecting?

I have entered the ingredients on a calculator and it has returned an estimated boil gravity of 1.036 and a total IBU of 49.00. I am trying to work out how to establish how strong it would be

 

[MyQul]

I have entered the ingredients on a calculator and it has returned an estimated boil gravity of 1.036 and a total IBU of 49.00. I am trying to work out how to establish how strong it would be

1.036 isnt very strong. If say you used us-05 yeast which has attenuation of about 79% your beer with be about 3.7%/3.8%, so not an IPA at all but very hoppy blonde ale

 

[matt76]

Generally I think that looks like it'll make a nice beer.

I think you could pick one or the other of your malts, unless you're just using up leftovers.

I've used your approach with good results until recently in my 12L BIAB brews, i.e. base malt + hops to make an "IPA". But what I've been noticing recently is that many (but not all) AIPA recipes include around 10% Munich and 10% Crystal malt - this is something I'm experimenting with at the moment. But if you don't have any you can still make a nice beer, so don't sweat it over details like this.

I like session beers but even I'd be inclined to reduce the amount of water (or use more malt) to increase the strength a bit and keep the BU:GU ratio around 1 (IBUs divided by OG).

I love Simcoe, it's a great hop, but I've generally not had much success dry hopping with leaf hops - perhaps others can comment. I would be inclined to use some of the Citra pellets for dry hopping (which is not to say omit the Simcoe completely from the dry hop).

 

[RenegadeSnare]

1.036 isnt very strong. If say you used us-05 yeast which has attenuation of about 79% your beer with be about 3.7%/3.8%, so not an IPA at all but very hoppy blonde ale

I see, really I'd like it to be between 5 and 6, are you able to suggest what I could do to reach that?

Thanks

 

[MyQul]

1.053 will get you 5.5%abv

Google attenuation calculator then click on the Brewer friend link. You can then play with the OG/FG. Keep the yeast attenuation at around 79% as you'll probably want to use something like US-05 for yeast choice

 

[MyQul]

Argh! Sorry I've made a mistake. I read your pre-boil OG of 1.036 as Final OG. According to Brewmate your Final OG should be 1.049 (based on 72% efficiency) giving you a ABV% of 4.97%. So you should be fine grist wise

 

[RichardM]

I have entered the ingredients on a calculator and it has returned an estimated boil gravity of 1.036 and a total IBU of 49.00. I am trying to work out how to establish how strong it would be

5Kg of malt should give you a higher og than 1.036, is that the pre-boil gravity? It's the post boil gravity that you need an estimate of to work out the abv. I would expect you to get closer to 1050+ post boil gravity, giving an ABV of 5+%

 

[RenegadeSnare]

Right i've put in the ingredients and methods as close as I think I can and this is my result, which I'm happy with!

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Rob

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 21 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 28.4 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.041
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)

Hop Utilization Multiplier: 1

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.051
Final Gravity: 1.010
ABV (standard): 5.47%
IBU (tinseth): 59.2
SRM (morey): 3.58
Mash pH: 0

FERMENTABLES:
5 kg - Pale 2-Row (100%)

HOPS:
10 g - Magnum, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.9, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 12.96
15 g - Cascade, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 6.7, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 5.93
15 g - Simcoe, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 11.9, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 10.54
15 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 10.71
20 g - Cascade, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 6.7, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 3.18
20 g - Simcoe, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 11.9, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 5.64
20 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 5.74
10 g - Simcoe, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 11.9, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at °C, IBU: 2.83
10 g - Cascade, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 7, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at °C, IBU: 1.67
10 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days
35 g - Simcoe, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 11.9, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days
35 g - Cascade, Type: Leaf/Whole, AA: 7, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 81%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Temp: 12.22 - 25 C
Fermentation Temp: 21 C
Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)

PRIMING:
Method: sucrose
Amount: 90
CO2 Level: 2.25 Volumes

TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Balanced Profile
Ca2: 0
Mg2: 0
Na: 0
Cl: 0
SO4: 0
HCO3: 0
Water Notes:


Generated by Brewer's Friend - Brewer's Friend - Homebrew Beer Recipes, Calculators, and Forum
Date: 2020-04-15 19:49 UTC
Recipe Last Updated: 2020-04-15 19:47 UTC

 

[matt76]

Looks good enough to me dude

If it were me I might be inclined to move the 15min additions to 10mins for more aroma and you'll likely not notice much difference in bitterness, and maybe do away with the whirlpool hops and move them to 5 mins or split them between 5mins and dry hop (mainly for simplicity so I can get on with cooling the wort).

But I'm really splitting hairs and I'll have changed my mind by tomorrow So what the heck, you've planned it, now go brew it

 

[RenegadeSnare]

Thank you for your advice! I will definitely listen to it as I am very much at the beginning! I am going to do this via a BIAB method with a 33 litre pot. I've got 5KG of malt, and I think i've worked out that I can start with 29L of water in the Mash to hopefully end up with 21 litres in the fermentation pot. That is based on this info:

https://snipboard.io/mhpLQM.jpg
Do you think that's right?

 

[Crappyfish]

Thank you for your advice! I will definitely listen to it as I am very much at the beginning! I am going to do this via a BIAB method with a 33 litre pot. I've got 5KG of malt, and I think i've worked out that I can start with 29L of water in the Mash to hopefully end up with 21 litres in the fermentation pot. That is based on this info:

https://snipboard.io/mhpLQM.jpg
Do you think that's right?

You may need some extra water to sparge with I used to do BIAB before moving onto all in 1 brewing and I used about 4 or 5 litres of water to sparge.
Hope this helps I'm no expert but have made some cracking brews.

 

[An Ankoù]

The ingredients bill looks ok, but I'd ask why Marris Otter and 2-row? MO is a 2-row. This is a hop-forward beer and I don't think you'll appreciate the difference in the malts. Stick any old Pale malt in there- there aren't any bad ones in circulation these days as far as I know. I would pull back on the dry hops; Simcoe, I find quite dank and Cascade can be herbal. Together they should be OK, but 140g in 5 gallons would be more than I'd put in. 80-100 would be my max. Get a bit of Citra in there at the end of the boil and in the dry hops and cut back the cascade.

 

[An Ankoù]

You could use Marris Otter but it may be to malty for what your after. A plain 'pale malt' may suit your tastes (and an IPA) better

MO isn't really maltier, it just has it's own subtly distinctive flavour in a single malt beer light coloured beer, as does Golden Promise, Pipkin and any other. But stick it in a porter or a beer with lots of crystal malts and I doubt you'd tell the difference.

 

[MyQul]

But stick it in a porter or a beer with lots of crystal malts and I doubt you'd tell the difference.

Thats the reason I stopped buying it a long time ago, and just bought the cheapest pale malt I could find. Same with lager malt. I cant tell the difference. My palette probably isnt very refined