Wilko Sweet Newkie Brown

[Neil1454]

Hi,

I'm completely new to home brewing. I've got a few questions if anyone can help me please?


Q1: I've been watching some videos on YouTube where DDoubleTap does his first brew.

His beer seemed to come out good but at no point does he explain why he uses 1KG of wilko brewing sugar and also 500g of Muntons Spray Malt Medium when it states on the Sweet Newkie Brown instructions it says...
Add Sugar or spray dried malt extract.
But he adds a bag of each (1kg and 500g)

Q2: Also on the instructions for the Sweet Newkie Brown. When bottling it mentioned about adding half of a teaspoon of sugar per pint (85g). What sort of sugar is this?

Q3: With all my kit been new and not sterilized yet. I've seen DDoubleTap use Milton sterilizing tablets.
For a first time sterilization is this a good idea to use these and then just brew without using any other sterilization ? If so, do I need to rinse everything after using the Milton or just empty and then start the brew?

Thank you.

 

[terrym]

Try this for background reading
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/...de-to-brewing-your-own-beer-from-a-kit.57526/
Then to answer your questions.
1. Homebrewers often juggle the recipes to suit their purposes. But if its your first brew I suggest you follow the instructions concerning what to add. However I would not use table sugar in quantity if it is suggested, but brewing sugar (dextrose), spray malt or liquid malt extract are fine.
2. Ordinary granulated table sugar is OK for priming. That's what I use.
3. I don't use Milton, but as for all sanitising chemicals just make sure everything gets a good covering and soak but make sure it is washed off properly before use. Clean mains water is fine for this. As an alternative to Milton, VWP or Starsan are used by homebrewers (including me) but you may have to get these from a homebrew shop or online.

 

[Neil1454]

Thanks for replying terrym...

What I forgot to mention is that I bought some Carbonation drops which says it has exact amount of priming sugars.
Can I ask what the sugar does exactly thats added to the bottles?

Thanks

 

[Ninkasi]

The carbonation drops will add some sugar to the bottle. The yeast will then process this and produce carbon dioxide which in turn will produce carbonation (fizz) to the beer. I'd use 1 drop per 500ml and maybe 2 for 750ml. Depends on the beer. Buy some star san and a spray bottle. It's no rinse.

 

[Neil1454]

Thanks strickers.

But I could just add normal granulated sugar and I would get the same results?

 

[Ninkasi]

Yeah that should be fine

 

[terrym]

I don't use carbonation drops. I and others view them as an expensive way of adding priming sugar. Table sugar is fine since its cheap and you can simply adjust the quantity of sugar you use to suit the style of beer, whereas for drops you can't do that easily. Anyway you have bought them now so use them up but follow the instructions. But whatever you do don't overprime.
Carbonation covered in the Guide I linked plus as described by @strickers

 

[Neil1454]

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.
Reading the suggested threads has helped allot.

When instructions state to put in a cool dark place for clearing when bottled. Is this meaning the fridge ?

 

[terrym]

If you have clear bottles a dark place is essential. Dark bottles less important provided they are kept out of the sun.
Next you need to keep your bottles in a warm place for one to two weeks after bottling to allow the yeast to work on the beer and carb it up. When that is done you move your beer into the cool place to allow it to finish conditioning which is when the yeast drops and the beer matures to improve the taste.
Just put the beer in the coldest place you have after carbing is done. If its your fridge fine but its not essential. Avoid really cold places in winter because you don't want to freeze your beer.

 

[ACBEV]

Its worth mentioning...

Ferment your beer for 2 weeks @ 17 - 21c. Find a dark place with a reasonably constant temp. I sometimes use a kitchen cupboard.

After 2 weeks fermenting, then bottle. I use a bottling bucket with a tap... I add 120g (23L batch) of sugar to 1 litre of boiled water to dissolve. Then syphon beer to bottling bucket, being careful not to transfer any (much) muck. Give a gentle stir, then bottle. Leave bottles for 2 weeks @ 17 - 21c to carbonate.

Mature for another 2 weeks @ 8 - 12c, if you can. A fridge is too cold for this stage.

 

[terrym]

A fridge is too cold for this stage.

Why?

 

[ACBEV]

Well... I have to say... Its a personal thing for me... I like to mature beer at serving temp., I feel it tastes better. I could be wrong, as its a bit subjective on my part.

In any case I think a beer tastes different when stored cold, apposed to cool.

 

[Neil1454]

Where the water tastes ****. So was going to grab the cheapest bottled water I can get from tesco.
Can I use any. Spring water fine? Seen people mention mineral water. Does it matter or is water, water for brewing ?

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
Tesco Ashbeck water has been mentioned several times on this forum as a good water for kit brewing.

 

[terrym]

If your mains water is not very good then any supermarket bottled water should be fine for a beer kit. Tesco and other supermarkets sell still water at 17p for 2 litres, if that's the cheapest that's what I would be using.

 

[Neil1454]

Got the Tesco water and almost ready to go.

On the Wilko Newkie Brown Ale it says that the fermentation finishes when the final reading is below 1.008.
If the reading is consistent over 2 days and its not showing this reading it will be safe to bottle?

I read the basics guide terrym very kindly put together. But I want to just be 100% sure. The sugar I add is the same 1kg bagged sugar I'd buy to put in my Tea or Coffee?
And it is 1/2 a teaspoon per 500ml bottle?
I have bottles with the swing tops I got cheap and they are 500ml so going to use those.

I am been extra careful as I really don't want bottle bombs.

 

[terrym]

@Neil1454
For the type of kit you are making the primary fermentation will usually finish somewhere around 1.010. It might be a bit higher it might be a bit lower. Best to test over the 2 days or even 3 days as the instructions suggest. However if it finishes at 1.018 or above you may have a stuck fermentation and if that happens come back to the forum for advice.
If the fermentation finishes at around 1.010 as I suggest and you are happy its finished you could go ahead and bottle. This may be as early as day 7 or 8 according to a number of factors. However, there is an advantage in leaving it for a few days more to allow the yeast to improve the quality of the beer and then start to drop. Many on here suggest 14 days before you bottle is a good rule of And although your beer may perhaps look clear at 14 days there will still be enough yeast to carb up, it may take longer that's all. After all a thin film of yeast at the bottom of your bottles is much better than 5mm as result of bottling too early!
Finally if you are using ordinary granulated table sugar (like you put in tea etc) that's fine. I use it, as do many others. But best keep a bag solely for brewing not one that everyone has dunked a spoon in.

 

[Neil1454]

Brill.. ok thanks terrym.

And the sugar can be added into the bottles without the need to boil it to remove any bacteria?

 

[terrym]

Well I don't bother with that, and I believe others are the same. But I do keep a bag of sugar solely for brewing, sealed in a poly bag between brews. And I also use a clean dry spoon to add sugar to the bottles.
Works OK for me although others may do things differently

 

[Neil1454]

Hi,

I've started the brew today.

All has gone good as far as I know. I have one question about the yeast.
When I put in the yeast and put the lid on. The temp strip was showing 28 c. And dropped soon after to 26c.
It does not seem to be dropping that much at the moment. Is this ok? Or did I make a boo boo?

Thanks