Youngs American IPA

Discussion in 'Beer Kit Brewing Discussion.' started by howyoubrewin, Apr 2, 2014.

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  1. Jan 2, 2019 #961

    Meza

    Meza

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    Exactly what I was wondering. What difference does it make whether the beer warms up in the bottles or before you bottle?

    Incidentally I bottled my AIPA cold and it seems fine, carbonated well.
     
  2. Jan 3, 2019 #962

    OlsBean

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    I'll be doing this kit for the 6th time tomorrow (Xmas Present) once I've bottled the Young's New World Saison that is the FV at the moment. It's very hard to get this kit wrong, (excluding the time Young's put the wrong malt extract in the kit) it has always turned out spot on, it's a very forgiving kit, always have had good attenuation and finished product is always very drinkable. I dry hop once fermentation has finished for 2/3 days at 21ºc then I cold crash to 0.5º for 2 days, batch prime and bottle cold, allowing the bottles to warm up and carbonate, for 2 weeks, I find it can then be drunk straightaway but personally I have found it hits a sweet spot after about 4-6 weeks of cold conditioning, it's usually also crystal clear by this time.

    *Eggy/Sulphur smells from the FV/Brew Cupboard are perfectly normal.

    Just for added information, the last time I did this kit (it was replacement by Youngs for the Messed up one I had back in the Summer) I replaced the 1KG of Brewing Sugar with 1/2 KG of Beer Enhancer (Coopers #1) just because I had some left over from earlier in the year and I wanted to A) Reduce the ABV a little to make a little more of a session IPA and B) to see if it would improve body and head retention. Normally I would not mess around with this kit as it's pretty much fool proof as I have said, it was Freebie and I need to use the enhancer up, so I thought why not. I bottled in the 18 December, and it came in at just short of 4.5%ABV, I had young crafty bottle on New Years Eve and it was quite good, I've put the other 63 bottles away to condition over January and I am looking forward to drinking it during February.
     
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  3. Jan 3, 2019 #963

    Si Edwards

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    As I've previously stated, this AIPA kit was my first attempt at home brew. I followed the instructions to the letter, and have been drinking it over Christmas. Unfortunately, I've now had to pour the last half of the pb away as it's turned bad. Problems with the brass valve on the pb (it came undone from inside) caused air to get in which I assume was the main cause. Inexperience and impatience also played a part.
    When I took the lid off the pb to fix it, I saw that the beer had a layer of mouldy looking bubbles on top, so down the sink it went. To be fair, I'm amazed I got to drink it at all.
    Anyway, I've learned a lot over the last few weeks (have purchased PET bottles) and will definitely brew again (Festival summer glory next). I'll also have another go at the AIPA as it seems a really good kit.
    I've learned a lot about FV times, dry hopping, cold crashing and hope to nail it next time!
     
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  4. Jan 4, 2019 #964

    wisden1970

    wisden1970

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    I’m starting my first kit, this AIPA, tomorrow and although it sounds perfect for a beginner, I’m a little concerned about getting the temp right, as the only room that sits between 21 and 24 degrees is a second floor bedroom!
    If it turns out well it will be a price worth paying.
     
  5. Jan 4, 2019 #965

    GhostShip

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    Is it a bedroom that is used? If so, there might be a rather unpleasant smell in the air for 2/3 days, but it does subside.

    Remember that the temperature that is important is the temperature inside your fermenting vessel, not the temperature outside it, so if anything, go for slightly cooler if possible. Certainly don't put it too near to a radiator.

    Fantastic beer though - hope it works out well for you. Let us know how it goes.
     
  6. Jan 4, 2019 #966

    wisden1970

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    Thanks for the reply Ghost Ship. I do have the option of a cooler room between 17.5 and 19 at the moment. Would that be too cool?
    How many degrees above room temp would a beer normally ferment at?
    It’s a downstairs room so would be much more convenient!
    Also, I have a pressure barrel with the kit. Is this ok to use or should I go for some decent bottles instead?
    Cheers
    James
     
  7. Jan 4, 2019 #967

    GhostShip

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    Hi James

    I believe the temperature of the wort depends on how vigorous the fermentation is and on the gravity of the final beer, but I think 2-3C is the norm. Others on here will know better than I.

    I'd guess that 17.5 might be a bit on the cool side - 19 would probably be OK. You could always wrap a blanket or some bubble wrap around the fermenting vessel to keep a bit more warmth in. Basically, you'll soon know - if it's bubbling away then the temperature's OK but if there's not much happening in the airlock, then it's probably a bit too cool. High temps are never good anyway as they can affect the yeast.

    If you got a CO2 bulb with your barrel, then start with that. I did my first brew (Wherry) in a barrel but didn't bother with any pressure. It become a struggle to get the thing to pour properly and it went flat within a few days. I then bought some Cooper's PET bottles (plastic) and I'm still using those. What I like about the PET bottles is that they 'flex' so you can tell if the beer has carbed up as the bottle becomes much more firm. For the same reason, they are also a bit more forgiving than glass in terms of exploding under pressure!
     
  8. Jan 4, 2019 #968

    OlsBean

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    20-24ºc is the recommended optimal temperature for this kit, I would used the upstairs room if you can, it sounds ideal, like Ghostship said don't stick it right next to the radiator though. Personally I would bottle this every time as it is a style of beer that should be carbonated. Also Pressure Barrels can be notoriously tricky even for experienced home brewers and this a premium kit, it would be a shame to spoil any hard work brewing it because of issues that you may run into using a PB for the first time, I would personally get a single can ale/bitter style beer for the PB, something that is traditionally served in a Cask.
     
  9. Jan 4, 2019 #969

    terrym

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    I would go for the cooler room. But be aware that it will take longer to ferment out. I normally ferment most of my beers at 19*C.
    And use bottles. PBs are not designed to withstand the higher carbonation pressure required by this style of beer.
     
  10. Jan 5, 2019 #970

    Crappyfish

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    I have the same problem . I use a low wattage trace heater to wrap around the FV which I can change the temp of the wort by moving up or down on the FV or get a cheap water tank jacket like the ones that fit on a immersion heater usually a red jacket that comes in 4 pieces and wrap that around the FV . It also doubles up on brew day as a insulator on the concrete shed floor and wraps around the boiler when boiling wort. They cost about a tenner from screwfix and the heater from most online brewing shops they are quite cheap as well.
     
  11. Jan 6, 2019 #971

    wisden1970

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    Thanks everyone for your advice. I have my first home brew on the go!
    By the time I put the yeast in the temp was at 18*C so I’ve put it quite near a radiator with a blanket on just to warm it up a bit and will move it away once it’s at about 20*C.
    I’m actually quite excited and am having to sip at a can of Growling Dog IPA from Nethergate Brewery to calm myself.
     
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  12. Jan 6, 2019 #972

    smithsj1

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    On the temperature, I think that the recommended numbers are guides. For example, we are currently without central heating in our house so the background temperature is about 14c. I started a Bulldog Brew Imperial Pale Ale on Friday and placed the FV on my heat mat. I pitched the yeast and 1 tsp of yeast nutrient with the probe on the FV showing 17.5c that evening and it was still only just 18c on Saturday morning. The yeast still got going within 24 hours and the activity of the yeast has now raised the temp to 20 whilst the ambient temp is still 14.1. In short, unless temps are a lot diff to optimum then you'll be fine IMO.
     
  13. Jan 6, 2019 #973

    terrym

    terrym

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    Anyone struggling to maintain steady fermentation temperatures in an unheated room (I run mine in the garage) could consider a water bath like this, for an outlay of about £12. They don't take up much more space than the FV itself and when you have finished with it you can pack it away somewhere if it suits.
    https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-set-up-a-water-bath-for-your-fv.66407/
    They are cheap and cheerful but do the job intended.
     
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  14. Jan 8, 2019 #974

    wisden1970

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    Hi all
    I moved the FV away from the radiator and the thermometer strip on the outside is reading 22*C, which means it's probably about 23.5*C inside.. It's bubbling away furiously and was making a bit of a splash until I realised the plastic cap on the airlock should be pushed on!!
    I'm tempted to remove the lid and check the temp of the wort again, but have resisted so far.
    I'm about to invest in some glass bottles and a bottling rod. I'll use the PB to prime in.
    Have I missed anything?
     
  15. Jan 8, 2019 #975

    stephen1546

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    Found the airlock cap blows off numerous times whilst doing this kit, my thermometer strip reads around 24*, even at that temp takes about 17/18 days to ferment.
     
  16. Jan 8, 2019 #976

    GhostShip

    GhostShip

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    First time I did this kit, the airlock blew off several times. That was just sitting in a back room with a blanket around it.

    The one in the brew fridge now is bubbling very slowly, but the lid has certainly not moved. I have the Inkbird set to 21C - I'm wondering whether to move it up a degree.
     
  17. Jan 8, 2019 #977

    stephen1546

    stephen1546

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    Im no pro, but ive been happy at 24C the couple of times ive done this kit
     
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  18. Jan 8, 2019 #978

    terrym

    terrym

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    21*C is OK for this beer. It will just take longer to finish than if you ferment at 24*C but not as long as 19*C which is what I ferment at. Next are you sure there is a seal between the FV and the lid? It might look gas tight but may not be. If you want to see airlock bubbles place cling film around the rim of the FV and then replace the lid. That will seal the FV so all the CO2 goes through the lock. And since you have opened up the FV to do that you could dunk your (sanitised) hydrometer into your beer to see how the SG is going, provided of course there is not a massive krausen on top. Thats how I measure SG. Good enough for kits. athumb..
     
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  19. Jan 10, 2019 #979

    GhostShip

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    Took an SG reading tonight and it’s at 1008. Will do another tomorrow, but decided it was probably safe enough to put the hops in with a view to bottling on Saturday or Sunday. All looks (and smells) good!
     
  20. Jan 11, 2019 #980

    stephen1546

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    Good stuff, i keep my hops in for 4 days. Sounds like you have a winner on your hands!
     
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