Guinness style clone

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I'm just starting my first extract brew with a Guinness clone and one of the things my recipe says is to grind the roasted barley into almost a dust, apparently this contributes to getting the right colour and flavour. With this being my first proper brew I'm not sure if this is common practice or not

Makes some sense to me. I have used maize in my lagers which is really a powder and got very good efficiency from it.
 
I read somewhere in my searching that guinness have an extract that they use to sour the mash, and someone claimed it was basically just guinness left to go off under lab conditions?

I do like a stout, well I like lots of different beers, but I just cannot drink more than 3-4 pints as my stomach just groans and bubbles.

I've heard of people souring a can of Guinness then putting it into the boil, apparently got good results!
 
I read somewhere in my searching that guinness have an extract that they use to sour the mash, and someone claimed it was basically just guinness left to go off under lab conditions?

I do like a stout, well I like lots of different beers, but I just cannot drink more than 3-4 pints as my stomach just groans and bubbles.


Here is what I found about how to provide that "twang"

To get that "Guinness tang," try this. After pitching the yeast to your stout, siphon 19 oz. of pitched wort to a sanitized 22 oz. bottle. Pitch bottle with a small amount of Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus. Cover bottle with aluminum foil and let ferment. When beer in bottle is done fermenting, pour it in a saucepan and heat to 160 °F (71 °C) for 15 minutes. Cool the beer and pour and pour it back in the bottle. Cap bottle and refrigerate. Add to stout when bottling or kegging.
 
I've just been onto the Maltmiller's website and ordered grain and bullion hops and 2 types of yeast, Safale S-04and NBS ale yeast (and I also have my local brewery yeast too), it seems to be the only place I could source grain, bullion hops and yeast in one hit, although the hops say 2012 harvest!.
I have ordered enough to do about 5 x 10L brews so I can try different experiments.
 
I've just been onto the Maltmiller's website and ordered grain and bullion hops and 2 types of yeast, Safale S-04and NBS ale yeast (and I also have my local brewery yeast too), it seems to be the only place I could source grain, bullion hops and yeast in one hit, although the hops say 2012 harvest!.
I have ordered enough to do about 5 x 10L brews so I can try different experiments.

Guinness hasn't always used Bullion and probably doesn't now as it is a hop on its way out. In fact it seems they vary the hops they use, which are only added for bittering not for flavour, and Galena, Target and Nugget are the main varities, according to Roger Protz. Galena was bred to succeed Bullion I believe.

http://www.beer-pages.com/stories/guinness-is-good-for-you-2.htm

So you should be able to get suitable ingredients anywhere really, as the others are standard beer ingredients. I reckon the NBS will be more suitable than the S04.
 
Cheers Clibit it was the bullion that is the problem, :thumb:
I thought I'd start with Bullion as it was the original and see how it comes out, then I can change to target,, galena, or nugget to see what its like with different bittering hops.
 
Got the ingredients today and did the first attempt at this Guinness clone, decided to do a 10L batch and divide into two with different yeasts, one with yeast from a local brewery and one with NBS ale yeast.:thumb:

Fecked up and added 400g too much maris otter and was doughing in when I realised so I upped the total water volume a few litres to compensate and so my 15L pot was brimmed and some spare to top up with, along with a right mess on the cooker :doh:

Ended up with just over 14L wort post boil, cooled with immersion chiller and added another litre of water to hit 1042 OG, and split into two FV's sterilised with milton and not rinsed :shock: and then pitched the two different yeasts.:mrgreen:
 
This morning the local brewery yeast version has a krausen covering almost all of the top and the NBS ale yeast version has the patchy foam starting of a krausen forming.
 
I hope yours goes well too BeerCat, I did taste a sample of the wort, completely different to my summer ale as you would expect being a stout, but this time it was nicer and I could almost have drunk it as it is, whereas the summer ale was ok but I didn't think it was nice enough to drink at the same stage.
 
4 days in and I took the lids off today and had a stir and took some readings, the local brewery yeast version is 1019, whilst the NBS ale yeast is down to 1015, the brewery yeast one doesn't taste quite so smooth as the NBS ale yeast one at this stage, but both are tasting good :thumb:

And the wine I'm making from the used grain from the Guinness clone is fermenting away nicely too.
 
Am I right in thinking that stouts take quite a bit of conditioning to really come good? If so, I'll have to think about getting one done in the summer so its nice for the winter.

I'll be interested to see how this one turns out Cheapie.
 
Am I right in thinking that stouts take quite a bit of conditioning to really come good? If so, I'll have to think about getting one done in the summer so its nice for the winter.

I'll be interested to see how this one turns out Cheapie.

You right. The longer you leave them the better. I find about 6 weeks and then they're good.
 
So give it 3 months and it should be really smooth then. I'll see how I go, my list that I want to try is getting pretty bloody long.!
 
I have stouts that have been great very quickly but more often they need a few weeks.

My Black Sabbath was bottled in November 2014 and I still have two bottles left. The last bottle I drank was in November, 12 months old, it was unbelievable. It is a very intense stout, and time has turned it into something very special. A lower ABV, lighter stout, would hit its peak earlier, I believe.
 
Black Sabbath was on the list a month ago!! I'd make for the name alone, but I am vary partial to a nice stout. A lot of stouts are a bit too heavy of the coffee flavours and aromas, although I love a nice strong coffee, for some reason I don't like too much of it in a stout. I've another on the list that I can't remember if I saw on here or in a book, but its a honey rum stout that I thought might appeal to the missus.
 
Black Sabbath was on the list a month ago!! I'd make for the name alone, but I am vary partial to a nice stout. A lot of stouts are a bit too heavy of the coffee flavours and aromas, although I love a nice strong coffee, for some reason I don't like too much of it in a stout. I've another on the list that I can't remember if I saw on here or in a book, but its a honey rum stout that I thought might appeal to the missus.

I'm similar to you in this respect, it's one reason I find porter really hard to drink, the heavy roast coffee flavours don't sit with me at all. I like to make my stouts with loads of patent black malt and a small quantity of caramel/brown malts for a bit of complexity.
 
How come you can drink a stout kit very early yet AG takes ages to condition? Only kits i really still brew are stout.

AG doesnt take ages to condition, Stouts are best when conditioned for a long time. You can drink a AG after about 2 weeks conditioning and it will knock spots of any kit condtioned for a similar period of time. Time aids both kits and AG.
Having said that I made a low OG bitter recently. I tried a bottle after 4 days condtioning and its great. I could start tucking into it now if I wanted, but I'm going to give it two weeks to condition.
 

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