HELP! New Buffalo Boiler

Got mine about 18 months ago, so standard base with screws, none of the feet issues above.

Did cut out regularly on first tests. So, as was planned anyway, I replaced standard thermal switch (120 I think), with a 140, no extra thermal paste. No cut out problems since.

The original safety fuse didn't blow, but I upped from 168 (I think) to 184 in any case.

Both above replacements done with ceramic connection block.

Initially thought I had a rolling boil problem, so added a second 1500W element using a Q-max. My boil loss is about 26%, so it's well overdone now I think. It seems water doesn't "roll" as much as wort. I'm going to try to run with the Buffalo element only next time; just that I'll have to guess the new boil off rate the first time. I don't regret adding the extra element though; helps bring to temp much faster. It's there in case I want it.

Fore said:

Got mine about 18 months ago, so standard base with screws, none of the feet issues above.

Did cut out regularly on first tests. So, as was planned anyway, I replaced standard thermal switch (120 I think), with a 140, no extra thermal paste. No cut out problems since.

The original safety fuse didn't blow, but I upped from 168 (I think) to 184 in any case.

Both above replacements done with ceramic connection block.

Initially thought I had a rolling boil problem, so added a second 1500W element using a Q-max. My boil loss is about 26%, so it's well overdone now I think. It seems water doesn't "roll" as much as wort. I'm going to try to run with the Buffalo element only next time; just that I'll have to guess the new boil off rate the first time. I don't regret adding the extra element though; helps bring to temp much faster. It's there in case I want it.

Click to expand...

Hi Fore,

Did yours come with the slotted tap cutout?

Just checked mine, and am wondering the best way of enlarging, and making a round hole. It seems to me that a q-max might struggle, as it wouldn't be easy to centralise. However, I have never used one.

I have stated this many times, I will state it again.
Buffalo boilers are not designed to produce a rolling boil. This is not something that I have made up or experienced. I have had a meeting in my office with the tech designer from Buffalo and he confirmed my thoughts. Not suitable for HBing. " You might get a rolling boil, but the thermo will cut out (saving the equip). "you can over-ride the cut out" but not only will you void your guarrentte(sp) but you are putting yourself in seroius danger

My current setup is 2x 40l Buffalo boilers but I have the thermostat in degrees C rather than 1 to 5 like yours.
They work just fine however I recommend topping up your HLT boiler after mashing in so you have a little water surplus for cleaning and incase of spillages etc.
(if you top up straight after mashing it's back to sparge temp in time for a 90 min mash)

DA

Steved53 said:

Hi Fore,

Did yours come with the slotted tap cutout?

Just checked mine, and am wondering the best way of enlarging, and making a round hole. It seems to me that a q-max might struggle, as it wouldn't be easy to centralise. However, I have never used one.

Click to expand...

No it didn't, round hole in mine. But I still needed to enlarge it to fit my replacement tap. Even if yours is slotted, I don't see how that would cause problem for the qmax. Maybe I'm not imagining it right, but by "slotted" I guess you mean it has flat parts, not completely round. I guess they would do this to ensure the tap is fitted straight and couldn't rotate if knocked. In any case, I still can't see how this would stop you enlarging with a qmax.

Doesn't need to be perfectly central, so long as the enlarged hole completely cuts out the old hole. My new hole is actually intentionally slightly lower than the original.

And yes, modifying is at ones own risk of course. I didn't by-pass any safety areas though, I just lifted the existing safety parameters. I would certainly recommend against bypassing either the thermal switch or the fuse.

I should have said that the Buffalo I use for the copper is modified and has had both the thermal fuse and thermal cut-out removed after it started cutting out. It's done 35 brews so far (at least 10 after the mods) and I've had no further cutting out and no other issues at all.

DA

If no-one minds, I'd be keen to return to the OP's original question:

Gaffer1975 said:

Big problem is that I had a quick look this morning and I cannot see how to remove the base plate so I can get at the guts of the machine. It's the new model 20 litre GL347 so the set up may be different to some of the older boiler blogs.

Click to expand...

I have the same boiler, and, despite the handbook's claim that "max" means it remains on all the time, mine does not. I would like to bypass the stat. There are only two visible screws on the whole unit. One is on the base, for an earth connection and the other holds the mains cable grommet in place.

From photos I've seen elsewhere, my guess is that four screws hold the base in place. However, mine has four plastic feet where these screws might be. Attempts to lever off the feet have been unsuccessful.

How do I get the base off?

Gaffer1975 said:

Annoying seeing as the instructions say that you can get a continuous boil if the temp dial is set on 'high'.

Click to expand...

It's a lie. I just fell into this trap. for sure any setting other than "max" won't boil, but even Max won't maintain a boil. The stat starts to toggle after a few minutes and it comes off the boil.

From what I understand from previous posts you can prize out some inserts on the bottom of the feet and it exposes the base fixing screws which hold the base and the feet on. I can't speak with any first hand experience as this version is a bit different to mine.
There is, of course, an element of risk when you bypass safety cut-outs but as long as you don't let it boil dry it will behave just as the old Burcos as far as I have experienced.
Don.
These are made in China. Designed for assembling at speed, not for taking apart. If you send it back under warranty they probably dump it and give you a new one.
Still good value though.

DonV said:

From what I understand from previous posts you can prize out some inserts on the bottom of the feet and it exposes the base fixing screws which hold the base and the feet on.

Click to expand...

100% correct. Much like the fittings on a car, it's one of those things you learn the hard way after you've trashed one of the feet!

DonV said:

I can't speak with any first hand experience as this version is a bit different to mine.
There is, of course, an element of risk when you bypass safety cut-outs but as long as you don't let it boil dry it will behave just as the old Burcos as far as I have experienced.

Click to expand...

So, after I discovered what the long thin metal thingy was, my solution was to unscrew it from the bottom of the bin and attach it to one of the legs instead, where it would never "see" the heat of the boiler. It works really well now. I have no idea what the themal cutout is set to, but I've been bouling water for 14 hours solidly today as a test and it hasn't cut out once.

My only issue is that the lid does not keep in all the vapour. Once the boil starts, the three points where the lid interlocks with the body all emit some degree of steam.

DonV said:

These are made in China. Designed for assembling at speed, not for taking apart. If you send it back under warranty they probably dump it and give you a new one.
Still good value though.

Click to expand...

Posting things back to China. Doesn't even bear thinking about. You get the wrong eBay helpdesk operator,your goods are lost forever. Who cares, when it only cost £20 in the first place?