Which brew pot?

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samnorfolk

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Looking to buy a brew pot with tap?
I usually brew up 21 litre batches, so I'm guessing a 35 litre brew pot would suffice?
 
I take it your brewing on gas:thumb: I think the cheap ones are great, much lighter which means cleaning is a doddle.
I have the size down from the malt miller one. When the brew bug hit hard I wanted to up grad to a ss or something but now I'm settled the cheap one is light and the beer wont get better with a pricy pot.
 
if your at all diy minded you can diy your own and save some cash,
email the ebay.fr seller of big stock pots for a delivered to your address quote 33l or 50l 70l and 98l pots available iirc my 98l pots were about £45 each delivered about 5 years ago..
if you buy they will issue a paypal invoice and pots arrive within a few days.
<[email protected]>

a 20mm qmax hole punch is the tool needed to cut a clean hole suitable for fitting a 1/2" bsp threaded SS pipe fitting etc or a 15mm compression tank connector :)
costs £10+ you will also need a 10mm allen key..

If you go brass n copper plumbing fittings for a drain/hop filter atachment etc you should do it for less than £15 SS Fittings and valves will cost more, ebay china is still the cheapest for 3 part ss full bore ball valves afaik..
 

I've got the Maltmiller one - 50l and I think great value for a very good quality pot with stainless tap and bazooka filter. Will last for years and years.

I do BIAB and can start a brewday with 35l of water before adding the bag/grain. The 50l size is perfect for proper one stage BIAB for ending up with 22-23l in the fermentation vessel.

Good luck with your search/selection.
 
I've got the Maltmiller one - 50l and I think great value for a very good quality pot with stainless tap and bazooka filter. Will last for years and years.

I do BIAB and can start a brewday with 35l of water before adding the bag/grain. The 50l size is perfect for proper one stage BIAB for ending up with 22-23l in the fermentation vessel.

Good luck with your search/selection.

I have this exact same set up too. The diy route is an option but seems a fair bit of faffing for not much money saved.
As a precautionary note, a 50L pot will give enough headspace to prevent any boil over on the hot break, I suspect a 35L pot might be pushing it....
 
Yeah I agree for BIAB in a pot on gas I think the 50L pot is a better size.. like suggested above you need 32-35L of water to begin with before you add your grain.. I think I normally add about 33L on average

Adding 5KG of grain is about 10L of space.
 
I've got the Maltmiller one - 50l and I think great value for a very good quality pot with stainless tap and bazooka filter. Will last for years and years.

I do BIAB and can start a brewday with 35l of water before adding the bag/grain. The 50l size is perfect for proper one stage BIAB for ending up with 22-23l in the fermentation vessel.

Good luck with your search/selection.

I have been using a 40 litre cool box to mash in but was wondering how you get along with doing the BIAB? I have tried it before on a smaller scale. Do you sparge the malt still?
 
I have been using a 40 litre cool box to mash in but was wondering how you get along with doing the BIAB? I have tried it before on a smaller scale. Do you sparge the malt still?

I get on fine with BIAB, since moving to a 50l pot don't need to do a dunk sparge anymore. I get around 70% efficiency without trying too hard, just start with 35l of water, squeeze the grain bag a quite a bit following the mash, then get on with the boil.

Very happy with the finished beer I am producing, not planning on going 3 vessel at the moment.
 
with a 40l coldbox tub already at hand it may be counterproductive to go biab.

While Biab when conducted by a skilled brewer can produce brilliant beers, its a 'cheaper' route to brewing negating the need for a tun and the investment in it.

However if you already have the tun avoiding using it so you can manhandle a hot wet bag of grain at the top of a step ladder or however you plan on post mash boil prep ;) may not be the best course of action.

No need to go full on 3V either simply co-opt the FV prior to final sanitation to drain the tun into while you sparge or to collect each batch sparge if you go that way ;)

IM not trying to knock BIAB or its results, just suggesting its a solution to a problem you dont have when a 40l tun is sat ready ;)

you may disagree that rinsing out a tun is preferable to hefting 10k or so of hot wet grain about ;)
 
with a 40l coldbox tub already at hand it may be counterproductive to go biab.

While Biab when conducted by a skilled brewer can produce brilliant beers, its a 'cheaper' route to brewing negating the need for a tun and the investment in it.

However if you already have the tun avoiding using it so you can manhandle a hot wet bag of grain at the top of a step ladder or however you plan on post mash boil prep ;) may not be the best course of action.

No need to go full on 3V either simply co-opt the FV prior to final sanitation to drain the tun into while you sparge or to collect each batch sparge if you go that way ;)

IM not trying to knock BIAB or its results, just suggesting its a solution to a problem you dont have when a 40l tun is sat ready ;)

you may disagree that rinsing out a tun is preferable to hefting 10k or so of hot wet grain about ;)

I do exactly this. Use the FV as a collector from the mash tun for each batch sparge. Once emptied the kettle into the mash tun, I can then empty the FV into the kettle and then grab the next lot of running back into the FV.

Then clean the FV using hot water from the output of the wort chiller, and sanitise etc accordingly.
 

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