AG#1: Bathams clone

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TheRtHonorable

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Hey guys,

I've brewed a few kits, and now decided to jump into BIAB all grain brewing. I've gradually built up the kit, with a 50L stainless boiler, voile bag, and a home made wort chiller, and yesterday was the day to start my first proper brew.

So... Friday afternoon included a trip to the local homebrew shop. Bought the ingredients as follows for my Bathams Bitter clone...

4.5kg Pale malt
31g Fuggles @ 60mins
18g Northdown @ 60mins
10g Goldings @ flameout

For yeast, I asked the guy who runs the shop for his advice and came away with Gervin GV12... I know very little about yeast but hopefully it'll be ok!


The boiler is heated from the big ring on my range cooker. I started off with 20L of water in it on the gas, and added another 10L by repeatedly boiling our kettle, just to speed things up. All water was taken from a batch I'd treated with a campden tablet. Finally the boiler started to heat up.. I hit 71C (according to my new but cheap and nasty thermometer), and in went the grain, which dropped the temp to 67C.

It was then mashed for 75 mins at 67C. Wrapped in closed cell foam and with a pillow on top of the lid, it only dropped one degree over that time, which I was pleased with. I then upped the temperature to 75C for the last ten minutes, however it took ages to get it up those eight degrees! The grain probably ended up mashing for more like two hours in total.

So, then the bag came out, and I raised it to a boil. I did sparge the grain a little with about 2L of water at 70C, and then let the bag sit over a spare pan. I eventually got another few litres out of the bag with a bit of a squeeze. I then tipped that into the boiler and got it up to a boil. For a good boil, I had to place the boiler over three rings of the hob.. the big wok burner just wouldn't heat up up fast enough on it's own, but it did hold a reasonable rolling boil once it got there.

Now, I don't have a hop strainer on the outlet tap of the boiler, so I washed out the grain bag, and put the hops in it to boil. This is one of the things I need to get for next time I think!

I'd made my own 3 coil wort chiller, but I completely forgot to put this into the boil 15 mins before the end. I added the last of the hops at flameout, but then ended up relighting the gas and dropping the chiller in for 5 mins. Hopefully this is enough, and I had washed it as well as possible before it went in anyway.

The chiller itself was fantastic. It took the wort from boiling to about 60C in about a minute, and then down to 30C within 7 minutes. I used the water coming out of it to wash the steriliser out of my FV, but had to turn it off early as my wort was getting too cold! I think it might be overkill really, but it's futureproof this way if I move to larger batches.

The wort was then transferred to the FV, but because I dont have a hop trainer and the hops were lifted out in the bag, all of the hot and cold break material also went into the FV. I'm hoping this will settle out ok!

I ended up with 20L at 1.052 OG... I then diluted this down to 23L, and measured it at 1.050. The yeast went in and is now bubbling away like mad! Can't wait to try it now!
 
Cool! That sounds great, and don't worry about the hot/cold break, it settles. I laughed when you said you asked for advice on what yeast to use in a homebrew shop and came out with Gervin GV12. Do all homebrew shops peddle Gervin?!
 
This is one of my favourite beers :thumb: well done :thumb:

I think you have to have at least 5 posts before you can post pics
 
Well, it's been bubbling away like crazy in the FV for two days now. I've measured a sample at around 1.016, so it's well on its way.

The beer looks really cloudy though, which isnt a problem I had with kits. I presume its all the break material... hoping this will clear? It also doesnt taste particularly good, so I'm hoping this will improve once its fully fermented and conditioned!

With the kits, I racked into a secondary after 14 days just for bottling. Would I be best to do this earlier with this beer, in order to let it rest in the secondary and improve clarity? I also have some finings available (isinglass), is it worth using or am I best to try without for the first attempt?

Cheers,

Chris
 
Did you use any finings in the boil (copper finings) - Irish Moss, Protofloc or Whirfloc?

I have never had to use finings post boil and I don't think they are necessary, even without copper finings. Others may disagree. If you take the fermenter somewhere cold once fermentation is complete it will clear. You could rack into another fermenter, but not essential.

It's early days, the taste will improve with clarity and conditioning.
 
No, no finings in the boil... I thought I'd try without for the first one, but I have the isinglass just in case.

I've sampled again today and it's at about 1.012, much clearer, with loads of sediment on the bottom of the FV. It tastes a lot more balanced too, whereas before it was like hoppy water.

I know it's early days, it just took me a long time on the day to get as far as making wort, and I really didnt want to think it had gone wrong on my first attempt!

Anyway, pics to follow when I get to bottling! Am I best to move it to a secondary for a few days first, or just rack to secondary and bottle straight away as I did before with the kits?
 
I wouldn't bother transferring to a second FV, but I would leave it for at least 4 days after you have got to the FG before bottling, this is a process that allows the yeast to clean up after itself.
 
Yes don't rush the fermentation, I always leave it in the FV at least 2 weeks. Minimum 4 days after reaching FG sounds like good advice. Then transfer onto priming sugar in bottling bucket and bottle.
 

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